RossW Posted January 6, 2014 Posted January 6, 2014 Sweet pics! Perhaps a slight deviation. Can anyone confirm that Pyga will be bringing out a 29" HT carbon frame soon? I thought I overheard this being said at ACF last year but can't quite remember and can't find any info confirming this either.
awesme Posted January 6, 2014 Posted January 6, 2014 hmm, first I hear. They HAD the Zero29'er which was Alu hard tail.They have the Zero650c which is a Carbon HT 27.5. G Sweet pics! Perhaps a slight deviation. Can anyone confirm that Pyga will be bringing out a 29" HT carbon frame soon? I thought I overheard this being said at ACF last year but can't quite remember and can't find any info confirming this either.
RossW Posted January 6, 2014 Posted January 6, 2014 Ja, I remember the Zero29er. This one is set to follow the Zero650c geometry and style.
Edgar Posted January 6, 2014 Posted January 6, 2014 how much did the bike end costing you?How much are the frames going for? G Hey, sorry for the slow reply.25k-30k and took some parts across from the old bikeFrame was a test/Demo frame so I cant give you a new price cost.
pedal_bob Posted January 6, 2014 Posted January 6, 2014 Hi guys. I need a bit of a sanity check. I just unpacked my OneTen29 from my EVOC flight bag and when I reattached the derailleur I noticed that the top of it was fouling with the chainstay. To make the derailleur clear the frame I had to turn in the B screw in 3.5 turns. Now when I shift up onto the biggest cog on the back, the top jockey wheel is about 12mm from the big cog as opposed to the 5-6 mm it should be as described in Shimano's set up guide.http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa111/sklipikish/MTB/shimano_zpse4889b22.png I don't remember me having this problem when I built the bike and am pretty certain that it was all OK before I packed the bike although that was about two months ago. All I did was remove the derailleur from the drop out before packing the bike so I can't understand why it's so far out now when reattaching. The rear triangle and frame look straight and don't show any signs that they have been bent. There is no visible signs anywhere on the bag that it was stressed. Also the problem is in the vertical plane and I don't see the frame bending in that way. I'd appreciate if any OneTen29 owners with a XT M786 Shadow+ derailleur and XT M771 11-36 cassette can confirm that there setups are OK and that their derailleurs don't foul with the chainstay with the B screw set to maintain the 5mm gap between the big cog and the top jockey wheel. In the following photos you can see what's happening. The first two show how it was when I re-attached the derailleur - the top of the jockey cage is actually touching the chainstay. http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa111/sklipikish/MTB/th_20140106_145449_zpsf04c6118.jpg http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa111/sklipikish/MTB/th_20140106_145429_zps492d7f49.jpg the next two is with the B screw turned in another 3.5 turns so the derailleur just clears the chainstay but like this there is a 12mm gap between the big cog and top jockey. http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa111/sklipikish/MTB/th_20140106_142131_zps41da502c.jpg http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa111/sklipikish/MTB/th_20140106_142141_zps7c317974.jpg I'm sure it's something simple I am just not seeing so would appreciate your comparisons.
Big Wheel Cycles Posted January 7, 2014 Posted January 7, 2014 Hi guys. I need a bit of a sanity check. I just unpacked my OneTen29 from my EVOC flight bag and when I reattached the derailleur I noticed that the top of it was fouling with the chainstay. To make the derailleur clear the frame I had to turn in the B screw in 3.5 turns. Now when I shift up onto the biggest cog on the back, the top jockey wheel is about 12mm from the big cog as opposed to the 5-6 mm it should be as described in Shimano's set up guide.http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa111/sklipikish/MTB/shimano_zpse4889b22.png I don't remember me having this problem when I built the bike and am pretty certain that it was all OK before I packed the bike although that was about two months ago. All I did was remove the derailleur from the drop out before packing the bike so I can't understand why it's so far out now when reattaching. The rear triangle and frame look straight and don't show any signs that they have been bent. There is no visible signs anywhere on the bag that it was stressed. Also the problem is in the vertical plane and I don't see the frame bending in that way. I'd appreciate if any OneTen29 owners with a XT M786 Shadow+ derailleur and XT M771 11-36 cassette can confirm that there setups are OK and that their derailleurs don't foul with the chainstay with the B screw set to maintain the 5mm gap between the big cog and the top jockey wheel. In the following photos you can see what's happening. The first two show how it was when I re-attached the derailleur - the top of the jockey cage is actually touching the chainstay. http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa111/sklipikish/MTB/th_20140106_145449_zpsf04c6118.jpg http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa111/sklipikish/MTB/th_20140106_145429_zps492d7f49.jpg the next two is with the B screw turned in another 3.5 turns so the derailleur just clears the chainstay but like this there is a 12mm gap between the big cog and top jockey. http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa111/sklipikish/MTB/th_20140106_142131_zps41da502c.jpg http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa111/sklipikish/MTB/th_20140106_142141_zps7c317974.jpg I'm sure it's something simple I am just not seeing so would appreciate your comparisons. Unfortunately this is normal. You have to set the tension screw so that the derailleur just does not touch the frame. Normally it's more of a problem with Sram derailleurs. Maybe on future frames Pat will fix this slight issue.
RossW Posted January 7, 2014 Posted January 7, 2014 Hi guys. I need a bit of a sanity check. I just unpacked my OneTen29 from my EVOC flight bag and when I reattached the derailleur I noticed that the top of it was fouling with the chainstay. To make the derailleur clear the frame I had to turn in the B screw in 3.5 turns. Now when I shift up onto the biggest cog on the back, the top jockey wheel is about 12mm from the big cog as opposed to the 5-6 mm it should be as described in Shimano's set up guide.http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa111/sklipikish/MTB/shimano_zpse4889b22.png I don't remember me having this problem when I built the bike and am pretty certain that it was all OK before I packed the bike although that was about two months ago. All I did was remove the derailleur from the drop out before packing the bike so I can't understand why it's so far out now when reattaching. The rear triangle and frame look straight and don't show any signs that they have been bent. There is no visible signs anywhere on the bag that it was stressed. Also the problem is in the vertical plane and I don't see the frame bending in that way. I'd appreciate if any OneTen29 owners with a XT M786 Shadow+ derailleur and XT M771 11-36 cassette can confirm that there setups are OK and that their derailleurs don't foul with the chainstay with the B screw set to maintain the 5mm gap between the big cog and the top jockey wheel. In the following photos you can see what's happening. The first two show how it was when I re-attached the derailleur - the top of the jockey cage is actually touching the chainstay. http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa111/sklipikish/MTB/th_20140106_145449_zpsf04c6118.jpg http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa111/sklipikish/MTB/th_20140106_145429_zps492d7f49.jpg the next two is with the B screw turned in another 3.5 turns so the derailleur just clears the chainstay but like this there is a 12mm gap between the big cog and top jockey. http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa111/sklipikish/MTB/th_20140106_142131_zps41da502c.jpg http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa111/sklipikish/MTB/th_20140106_142141_zps7c317974.jpg I'm sure it's something simple I am just not seeing so would appreciate your comparisons. Something I've done before is to attach the RD incorrectly. Meaning, I've left the little lock pin on the wrong side of the hanger, leaving the RD to pull too far forward. otherwise, I'm a bit stumped as to what is wrong.
pedal_bob Posted January 7, 2014 Posted January 7, 2014 Unfortunately this is normal. You have to set the tension screw so that the derailleur just does not touch the frame. Normally it's more of a problem with Sram derailleurs. Maybe on future frames Pat will fix this slight issue.Thanks for confirming. I just can't remember having this issue when I built the bike but that was last July so it's possible I have just forgotten. If that is the case I'm surprised the tension screw unwound itself that far without me noticing. But thanks for confirming it's normal on this frame as it was driving crazy trying to figure out what changed. Something I've done before is to attach the RD incorrectly. Meaning, I've left the little lock pin on the wrong side of the hanger, leaving the RD to pull too far forward. otherwise, I'm a bit stumped as to what is wrong.Yes, I double checked that a number of times and the lock pin is definitely in the correct position.
Pipsqueak Posted January 17, 2014 Posted January 17, 2014 Think everyone is right. :-)Ordered a Lev. Doezel 1
Doezel Posted February 1, 2014 Posted February 1, 2014 Ordered a Lev. Already been Levving around some trails?
Pipsqueak Posted February 11, 2014 Posted February 11, 2014 All fitted, but I've been sick for 2 weeks. Gonna go tool around at the Enduro on sat. That seat post seems butter smooth though. I'm also running my suspension really soft now - amazing how low you can go on these bikes. Will let you know..!
Pipsqueak Posted February 20, 2014 Posted February 20, 2014 Dropper is great. Works so well that you kind of forget about it. Simple, quick and quiet. Doezel 1
Doezel Posted February 20, 2014 Posted February 20, 2014 (edited) Looking good! You made the right decision. But why did you choose the 100mm version? A tip: I've added a black noodle to the Dropper remote to make routing a bit easier:http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3723/11465640354_0669f001d7_b.jpg And are you running a OneUp 42T in the rear???? I busted my Revelation last week so now I'm currently using a Fox which is planned for another project...http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7391/12498355003_742c5d97b5_b.jpg Edited February 20, 2014 by Doezel
Pipsqueak Posted February 20, 2014 Posted February 20, 2014 Looking good! You made the right decision. But why did you choose the 100mm version? A tip: I've added a black noodle to the Dropper remote to make routing a bit easier:http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3723/11465640354_0669f001d7_b.jpg And are you running a OneUp 42T in the rear???? I busted my Revelation last week so now I'm currently using a Fox which is planned for another project...http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7391/12498355003_742c5d97b5_b.jpgWhen I measured things up a longer post/drop wouldn't have fitted. I used that noodle ya, pretty neat. Yes, I have a one up 42t on the back. It's very very nice - 1x10 with all I need. I'm not that impressed with the Revelation - wobbles around a lot. I'm thinking of selling and getting a Sweep.
Doezel Posted February 20, 2014 Posted February 20, 2014 (edited) Ah I get it; you're a bit leg-length-challenged compared to my giraffe legs For my next project (a 29er Zealous Division LTHT) I will also use a 1x10 with a OneUp in the rear and (if I'm not mistaken) a 32T at the front on a 2x SLX crank. As for the revelation. As soon as it gets back from sram I will exchange it for a Pike... Edited February 20, 2014 by Doezel
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now