MTBeer Posted October 23, 2012 Posted October 23, 2012 from wiki - Stainless steel differs from carbon steel by the amount of chromium present. Unprotected carbon steel rusts readily when exposed to air and moisture. This iron oxide film (the rust) is active and accelerates corrosion by forming more iron oxide, and due to the dissimilar size of the iron and iron oxide molecules (iron oxide is larger) these tend to flake and fall away. Stainless steels contain sufficient chromium to form a passive film of chromium oxide, which prevents further surface corrosion and blocks corrosion from spreading into the metal's internal structure, and due to the similar size of the steel and oxide molecules they bond very strongly and remain attached to the surface.[4]Passivation only occurs if the proportion of chromium is high enough and oxygen is present.
MTBeer Posted October 23, 2012 Posted October 23, 2012 (edited) I am afraid you are incorrect.It will show corrosion if exposed to the elements.no ss is 100% corrosion resistant but some grades like 304 and 316 are virtually 100%. 304 is no good in contact with sea water but 316 is used in such cases. we do work for the shipping industry and they use 316 extensively. Edited October 23, 2012 by MTBorDIE
Kranswurm Posted October 23, 2012 Posted October 23, 2012 no ss is 100% corrosion resistant but some grades like 304 and 316 are virtually 100%. 304 is no good in contact with sea water but 316 is used in such cases. we do work for the shipping industry and they use 316 extensively.Surface ContaminantsCommon contaminants likely to attack stainless steel include carbon steel and common salt. Dust and grime arising during fabrication may contain these contaminants and should be prevented from settling on stainless steels.Oil, grease, fingerprints, crayon, paint and chalk marks may also contain products that can provide crevices for localised corrosion and also act as shields to chemical and electrochemical cleaning. They should be removed.Residual adhesives from tape and protective plastic sometimes remain on surfaces when they are stripped. Organic solvents should remove soft adhesive particles. If left to harden, adhesives form sites for crevice corrosion and are difficult to remove.The most frequently encountered fabrication problem is embedded iron and loose iron particles, which rapidly rust and initiate corrosion. Other common sources of contamination are abrasives previously used on carbon steel, carbon steel wire brushes, grinding dust and weld spatter from carbon steel operations, introducing iron filings by walking on stainless steel and iron embedded or smeared on surfaces during layout and handling. All should be avoide
Kranswurm Posted October 23, 2012 Posted October 23, 2012 no ss is 100% corrosion resistant but some grades like 304 and 316 are virtually 100%. 304 is no good in contact with sea water but 316 is used in such cases. we do work for the shipping industry and they use 316 extensively. For my sins I was the QA manager for the manufacture of the water treatment plants at that monstrosity on your horizon for 5 years and spent my life invoking procedures to keep ss free of contaminents
Bianchi Posted October 23, 2012 Posted October 23, 2012 What about chrome vanadium? Well none of my Chrome vanadium spanners have any sign of anything on them... and they've over 20 years old, and everything else in the garage has rust spots on them (from damp through the walls). Some of my expensive SS cutlery has started to rust though, after 3/4 years.
MTBeer Posted October 23, 2012 Posted October 23, 2012 Well none of my Chrome vanadium spanners have any sign of anything on them... and they've over 20 years old, and everything else in the garage has rust spots on them (from damp through the walls). Some of my expensive SS cutlery has started to rust though, after 3/4 years.it's that oily food then i guess
Kranswurm Posted October 23, 2012 Posted October 23, 2012 Well none of my Chrome vanadium spanners have any sign of anything on them... and they've over 20 years old, and everything else in the garage has rust spots on them (from damp through the walls). Some of my expensive SS cutlery has started to rust though, after 3/4 years. Avoid that steel wool and ammonia based cleaners
MTBeer Posted October 23, 2012 Posted October 23, 2012 For my sins I was the QA manager for the manufacture of the water treatment plants at that monstrosity on your horizon for 5 years and spent my life invoking procedures to keep ss free of contaminentsah ha, a QA managers rust is not mr average joe's rust i guess.
Kranswurm Posted October 23, 2012 Posted October 23, 2012 ah ha, a QA managers rust is not mr average joe's rust i guess. Heh...Interesting though.SS needs O2 to oxidise and form its protective coating.Take that away and it corrodes like swiss cheese. Loved working at Koeberg tho.Had many friends in Melkbos.
MTBeer Posted October 23, 2012 Posted October 23, 2012 (edited) Heh...Interesting though.SS needs O2 to oxidise and form its protective coating.Take that away and it corrodes like swiss cheese. Loved working at Koeberg tho.Had many friends in Melkbos.melkbos is a cool spot - a bit like a holiday town and the safest suburb in SA. Well it was a year ago. Edited October 23, 2012 by MTBorDIE
Big H* Posted October 23, 2012 Posted October 23, 2012 (edited) How do you guys take care of your workshop tools? A friend who is a mechanic (car) says he put a light covering of car oil on all his tools, keeps the rust off and is easier to keep clean. Can you do the same with the bike tools ? Maybe use a light covering of chain lubrication (oil based) ? Use some WD 40 or silicone oil ........ Or remove the rust with a Karcher high pressure spray Edited October 23, 2012 by eccentric1
V12man Posted October 23, 2012 Posted October 23, 2012 How do you guys take care of your workshop tools? A friend who is a mechanic (car) says he put a light covering of car oil on all his tools, keeps the rust off and is easier to keep clean. Can you do the same with the bike tools ? Maybe use a light covering of chain lubrication (oil based) ? You can do this if you want to - but it will cost you skinned knuckles one day - Cobra floor wax lasts longer and is not slippery whn dry (not compared to oil) and works very well - try it on a cast iron circular saw table and you will see. Buy decent tools and they won't rust. FacomHazetSnap-onStahwille and the like. They won't rust because they are so expensive you will look after them.
Slowbee Posted October 23, 2012 Posted October 23, 2012 so things like cable cutters, pliers, side cutters, spanners, allen keys, etc, use cobra wax ? wax on wax off .... I'll be blinded by the shine.
V12man Posted October 23, 2012 Posted October 23, 2012 so things like cable cutters, pliers, side cutters, spanners, allen keys, etc, use cobra wax ? wax on wax off .... I'll be blinded by the shine. Yup - works real good on wood saw blades too - just has to be re-applied after use. Just wipe them down with a waxy cloth after use, and put them away dry. If you have rusty tools (light surface rust) - degrease them, leave them submerged in coca cola overnight - then rinse, dry, lube and wax and they will be like new. If you want your tools to rust - leave a bucket of pool clorine open near them.
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