Proper Cleaning after a mud event.....

[mjjj]

Did the Van Gaalens mud to mud as I called it yesterday,advice needed now on how to lube and protect my Momsem after i have washed and cleaned the bike,I lubed the chain ,but what would you recomend to lube or spray the groupsets,and other parts with,the eggbeaters are dry from all the cleaning I had to do as well,

Not sure what to use and dont want to use anything (dust magnets most of those lubrication products??????

[Karin]

My son also did the mud to mud on his brand new Scott. Also need some advice on how to clean. I would also like to know best place to take the bicycle for a decent service in the West Rand, please.

[kosmonooit]

Spray some moisture displacing penetrating oil like Q20 into pedals, and FD/RD mechs

[Rusty250]

Washed mine twice yesterday, again today and still mud coming out of holes and spaces. Flooded with the Tool in a can, loosens, cleans and Lubes too.

[slowpoke]

Strip bike, clean. Grease on all bearings, some Q20 or suchlike on moving joints of derailleurs, good oil on chain.

 

p.s. I've just finished the Yellow Saddle bicycle maintenance course... The test ride on my Mongoose is the best it's ridden and changed gears for a while :- D

Edited November 25, 2012 by slowpoke

[Flatdog7]

My son also did the mud to mud on his brand new Scott. Also need some advice on how to clean. I would also like to know best place to take the bicycle for a decent service in the West Rand, please.

 

West Rand Cycles on Ontdekkers.

[Dubber88]

With regards to the chain, I would suggest you take it off and drop it a tub with paraffin.

 

Do a pressure hose wash on your bike and then to lube all the pivots, RD, FD with a decent wet lube like finish line extreme wet lube.

 

Also look at servicing bearings of wheels, cleaning cable inners.

 

And don't forget to clean the inside of the brake calipers including the brake pads. Nothing eat brakes pads as fast as mud.

[Dubber88]

Re-lubing chain.

 

I use Rock 'n Roll Extreme, let that do it's job by cleaning the chain and getting inside the chain, then seal it up with Squirt and let it dry.

[Paul Ruinaard]

Now you know why I wont ride muddy events. I literllay refuse. For anyone that remembers 2006, I was doing Epic, so i did barberton, Sani 2 c and Epic. All in mud knee deep in some places. The last one I did (a corporate challenge last March) cost me R 2k to repair the bike. Not sure it helps now but some tips/tricks for mud if you know you are going to ride in it:

 

1.) Spray the bike top to bottom with Spray n Cook (not the discs chop) or if you are rich, silicon or a dashboard protector

2.) I have seen guys cut cold drink bottles in to bits and make front derailleur protectors - they help a lot to make sure it shifts plus keeps a lot of mud out the chains

 

If you have ridden in mud any distance over 40 kms, your chain is likely very tired. Check it and replace as a seriously worn chain that has not been used for a long ride will not have chewed your sprockets yet. gte a chain guage and if they are at 0.75 stretch then change it. Mud eats chains.Also depends how big you are. i am a big boy so i chew chains, but if i change them before .75 stretch my sprockets last longer

[alriddin]

p.s. I've just finished the Yellow Saddle bicycle maintenance course... The test ride on my Mongoose is the best it's ridden and changed gears for a while :- D

 

So, I have heard of these courses, and how good they are. However, the website only schedules sessions for 2010. Am I just missing something here?

[slowpoke]

It was very good. Johan explains the why's and wherefores so that you understand how the bike works. Stripped my mtb down at every component and other then the actual fork and the spokes, but having totally removed, inspected and cleaned my derailleurs I will never again use any wax type lube. Dumped a bottle of squit and about 1/4 bottle white lightning in the bin when I got home. Drop him an email for info johan@yellowsaddle.co.za

[Firemeister]

You ride an expensive bike in serious mud only once.

[Karin]

You ride an expensive bike in serious mud only once.

So true. It was an expensive lesson. The bike is with the bike shop at the moment and we don't even know the extend of the damage yet.

[arendoog]

Wash with all purpose cleaner .I use WD 40 to clean bearings before greasing them again .Dont ride in the mud again .Ride in mud if you are planning to replace groupset shortly

It was very good. Johan explains the why's and wherefores so that you understand how the bike works. Stripped my mtb down at every component and other then the actual fork and the spokes, but having totally removed, inspected and cleaned my derailleurs I will never again use any wax type lube. Dumped a bottle of squit and about 1/4 bottle white lightning in the bin when I got home. Drop him an email for info johan@yellowsaddle.co.za

What do you lube with now?

[flymango]

It was very good. Johan explains the why's and wherefores so that you understand how the bike works. Stripped my mtb down at every component and other then the actual fork and the spokes, but having totally removed, inspected and cleaned my derailleurs I will never again use any wax type lube. Dumped a bottle of squit and about 1/4 bottle white lightning in the bin when I got home. Drop him an email for info johan@yellowsaddle.co.za

 

Same questions as Blitzer - why's that and what do you use now?

[slowpoke]

Use an oil based lube, any oil based lube that will stay on the chain. I've been using one of thoses chain cleaner things that you clamp around the chain and turn the pedals and everything looks so clean. On stripping and opening up, the build up of wax inside the jockey wheels (snuck in past seals) was disgusting. Having thoroughly cleaned it as can only be done by stripping it all down, everything is actually in 100% perfect working order and no need to "look at replacing the rd" as had been suggested by another bike mechanic. Shifting is also perfect and crisp, so clearly no need to replace the shifters any time soon either (another recent suggestion by a shop mechanic).

 

Also, the mechanism of the chain needs the lube to be in liquid form for optimum functioning... As it pulls the lube is forced out from between the rollers and the links etc and then as it is no longer under tension the lube needs to be able to move back between the bits. Johan explains it very well on the course.

 

For now I'll use good old Castrol! (have on hand for my motorbikes, so why spend more money?)