brake pad surface not fully used

[V12man]

Avids use 185mm rotors, all other brands use 180mm, which is where your unused bit of pad comes from. You won't get a 180mm Avid adaptor, so you'll need to remove 2.5mm of spacer from the stack or replace your rotor.

 

Removing spacers is more fun than it looks - the spherical washers are there for alignment and work in sets,

 

This is FLAT out WRONG - Avids have 180mm rotors... and you DO get 180mm avid adapters.

 

Total BS post

[divernick]

I don't believe that 1mm of extra pad contact will make a noticeable difference to your braking performance. My rear brake has the same symptoms cos I am too lazy to adjust my caliper when tensioning my chain on my SS. I have Deore M596 brakes, and don't notice a performance difference between when the pad has full contact vs 95% contact with the rotor.

 

Just go ride your bike.

[divernick]

This is FLAT out WRONG - Avids have 180mm rotors... and you DO get 180mm avid adapters.

 

Total BS post

 

They used to be 185-only until a couple years ago....

[V12man]

They used to be 185-only until a couple years ago....

 

But they aren't any more..... 140, 160, 180, 185, 200 and 203 for sure

[Capricorn]

This is FLAT out WRONG - Avids have 180mm rotors... and you DO get 180mm avid adapters.

 

Total BS post

 

PHEW!!! tough crowd! Did Droo piss in your porridge at some point??

 

But they aren't any more..... 140, 160, 180, 185, 200 and 203 for sure

 

true. As of the 2012 models IIRC, Avid removed the need for the CPS washers, and will be phasing out the odd numbered rotor sizes and adapters from future product lines. So byebye 185 and 203mm rotors and adapters. The legacy 140mm and 160mm rotor sizes + adapters remain, however the G2 and G3 cleansweep rotors across the whole size range of rotors are being phased out.

 

So now you get 140mm, 160mm, 170mm*, 180mm, 200mm* (* denotes new). Rotors are now the HS1 and HSX variety in the aforementioned sizes.

Edited August 19, 2013 by Capricorn

[Capricorn]

I don't believe that 1mm of extra pad contact will make a noticeable difference to your braking performance.

 

What you say makes everyday sense, but there is a curiousity with the G2 and G3 cleansweep rotors when used with pads that are not making proper and full contact: they vibrate like mad. The intensity of vibration varies depending on the degree to which the pads don't make proper contact.

[droo]

PHEW!!! tough crowd! Did Droo piss in your porridge at some point??

 

 

Not that I'm aware of, but I have broad shoulders. And a raincoat that doubles as a flame suit.

[divernick]

What you say makes everyday sense, but there is a curiousity with the G2 and G3 cleansweep rotors when used with pads that are not making proper and full contact: they vibrate like mad. The intensity of vibration varies depending on the degree to which the pads don't make proper contact.

 

Then I'm glad I chose Shimano brakes. A blessing I am reminded of on almost every ride.

[Capricorn]

Not that I'm aware of, but I have broad shoulders. And a raincoat that doubles as a flame suit.

 

hahaha.. was just surprised at the rather pointedly aggressive response...

[Mojoman]

If you are keen to fiddle you can also simply use normal small washers to space up/down the caliper to the rotor.

I was under the impression vibration was caused by the pads touching on the 'arms' of the rotor?

 

I have taken a piece of chalk and marked up the rotor with some chalk dust, spun the wheel, pulled the brake and noted where the chalk dust has been removed so you can determine if you need to go up or down with the height of the caliper.

[Capricorn]

Then I'm glad I chose Shimano brakes. A blessing I am reminded of on almost every ride.

 

enjoy that panacea while it lasts. everyone gets a day in the rain.

 

perhaps thats why avid changed their rotor design?

[Mojoman]

enjoy that panacea while it lasts. everyone gets a day in the rain.

 

perhaps thats why avid changed their rotor design?

And created a fancy pants bleeding system worthy of a R400+ price tag!

[Capricorn]

If you are keen to fiddle you can also simply use normal small washers to space up/down the caliper to the rotor.

I was under the impression vibration was caused by the pads touching on the 'arms' of the rotor?

 

I have taken a piece of chalk and marked up the rotor with some chalk dust, spun the wheel, pulled the brake and noted where the chalk dust has been removed so you can determine if you need to go up or down with the height of the caliper.

 

I'm sure others have experienced it that way, but my experience came in the other direction: partial contact at a further radius. Whole wheel wobbled like mad, and i initially thought I had broken my axle. Turned out to be a simple affair of the LBS overspacing the adapter and caliper when spacing wasn't required.

[duanelr]

AHA so that's why my brakes vibrate while stopping!! one major issue solved with the help of another!! great success! all I'm gonna do is remove the gold little cylindrical washer, turn the silver one around, sand down that little lip, hope they line up and go ride! perfect!

 

thanks err'body!

 

edit: as you can see i use avid with ashima rotors, 180mm

Edited August 19, 2013 by duanelr

[Capricorn]

And created a fancy pants bleeding system worthy of a R400+ price tag!

 

watchu mean?

[V12man]

PHEW!!! tough crowd! Did Droo piss in your porridge at some point??

 

No - luckily for him.....