Brian Fantana Posted September 6, 2013 Share Gravity Dropper is also a nice dropper post, and CRC stocks all their parts. They have also been in the game for a very long time. They are cable actuated and the dropper mechanism works with a coil spring and pin, in lieu of a hydraulic system utilised by other manufacturers. http://gravitydroppe...ts/turbo-parts/ http://www.chainreac...gravity dropper Their entry level (non remote) Descender model can be upgraded to a remote actuated post as well, which is nice. Edited September 6, 2013 by Brian Fantana Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted September 6, 2013 Share Gravity Dropper is also a nice dropper post, and CRC stocks all their parts. They have also been in the game for a very long time. They are cable actuated and the dropper mechanism works with a coil spring and pin, in lieu of a hydraulic system utilised by other manufacturers. http://gravitydroppe...ts/turbo-parts/ http://www.chainreac...gravity dropper Their entry level (non remote) Descender model can be upgraded to a remote actuated post as well, which is nice. That boot just spoils it for me ... it just looks so 1992 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TALUS Posted September 6, 2013 Share Don't buy Reverb with the silver collar - that is series 1. Had mine replaced under warranty. Now have the black collar series 2. Fantastic. Stealth only if your frame can take it, 125mm drop - DO IT! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goblin Posted September 6, 2013 Share Don't buy Reverb with the silver collar - that is series 1. Had mine replaced under warranty. Now have the black collar series 2. Fantastic. Stealth only if your frame can take it, 125mm drop - DO IT!+1 on this, Using the reverb now for about a year and love it.Not just for downhills, you can use it to corner like u have rails. Hairy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alouette3 Posted September 6, 2013 Share Even the Giant brand droppers work great and they are cheap at under R2k. Problem is they only come in 30.9mm!As Patches said, you only realize the usefulness of a Dropper once you've owned one. I dreaded forking out the cash, but now I'll do it again in a flash! Changed my riding. Hairy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patches Posted September 6, 2013 Share Oh, on the note of diameters. If your seatpost tube is 31.6mm, then get a 30.9mm and run it with a USE alu shim. (I do this). Reason being, if you ever want to change frames to one with a 30.9mm, you don't need to sell your dropper. Also the shim (I think) keeps the inserted part of ths post shaft looking nicer for longer. None of those burs (that that frames often have in the seatpost tubes) to scratch your prescious dropper post. Hairy, Vangar and droo 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel J Méssem Posted September 6, 2013 Share There is nothing 'fancy' about the hole where my dopper cable come through in my seat tube - cant one just cut one?I doubt it will change the strength of the tube - it is only about 6mm. some bikes also have them in the down tube at the bottom, just a bit up from the BB....i saw it this weekend at World Champs. Yes, just did this on my non-stealth scott spark, the reverb cable joins up with other cables, you could almost call it... stealth.. hayleyearth 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beanz Posted September 6, 2013 Share I recently got a reverb. What a cool upgrade that was. A marvellous piece of engineering. Definitely the best thing I could have done for my bike.Installation wasn't too hard. I shortened the hose and bled it using the bleed kit provided myself, and I'm generally a bit DIY challenged. Wasn't that bad, cutting the hose took 2 seconds with a retractable utility knife on a breadboard and a sharp firm movement. Bleeding was a bit of a pain, but I got the job done in the end and the remote works flawlessly.I don't have internal cable routing or guides on my frame, so I've routed the cable under the top tube and fastened it using velcro ties. Not as untidy as it sounds. The thinking was I could easily swap back the old seatpost in a few minutes. Needless to say, having ridden with the dropper post, I can't see that happening any time soon.If weight is your concern, adding the reverb only added 340g to the weight of my bike. An insubstantial penalty considering the benefits. And I had to lose the saddlebag - you can't have one with a dropper. Must say, never did like the big gonad dangling off the back of my bike that much anyway.But what a difference it makes to the ride. I'm using it all the time, at least as often as the front shifter. When I hit twisty singletrack or just need to be able to corner, I just lower it an inch or 2, so I can still pedal properly, but can corner and manoevre so much better in this position with a lower center of gravity.And if it drops steeply it goes down down the full 125mm. And anything in between it goes somewhere inbetween. Infinite adjustability is definitely the way forward. Some droppers confine you to 3 set positions. It's so easy to operate, it just takes a few rides to get dialled. The movement is super smooth.Dropper posts are already standard issue on medium to high end longer travel bikes, but you could argue that it's on shorter travel xc bike with a steep head angle that you need it the most. No more needing to hang your arse over the back and burn it on the back tyre, nor having to risk your nuts trying get back over to the front of the bike. Since getting it I've been able descend so much faster and feel more safe that I feel like I have an unfair advantage. I'm getting down faster than guys who are better riders than me. But most importantly I'm having more fun on the bike and and in particular enjoying the freedom of simply being able to move around the bike without the saddle getting in the way.I also balked at the cost, but it was worth every cent. Edited September 6, 2013 by beanz Dirty Sanchez, Hairy, RockCoach and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patches Posted September 6, 2013 Share PS. if you're careful and you know the trick, you don't need to re-bleed your reberb when shortening the lever hose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beanz Posted September 6, 2013 Share I wasn't sure if it needed to be rebled after I cut the hose, as no fluid seemed to escape, but I was keen to try my hand at doing the bleed anyway. But what's the trick? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patches Posted September 6, 2013 Share I wasn't sure if it needed to be rebled after I cut the hose, as no fluid seemed to escape, but I was keen to try my hand at doing the bleed anyway. But what's the trick? rather simple. keep the lever higher than the post at all times during the procedure. Hairy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beanz Posted September 6, 2013 Share rather simple. keep the lever higher than the post at all times during the procedure.Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the nerd Posted September 6, 2013 Share Thinking about trying one on my hardtail.. (Im serious) Hairy and RockCoach 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted September 6, 2013 Share Thanks Put your hand up in the air, put your hand up, in the air! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted September 6, 2013 Share Thinking about trying one on my hardtail.. (Im serious) Do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the nerd Posted September 6, 2013 Share Do it. Even a basic one would be awesome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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