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When is a light frame too light?


The_Break

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Beak, it sounds like a great bike as it is. No upgrades needed IMO.

If you are a hard core weight weenie, hoever, you can still lose some grams:

1. Tufe Elite Jet tires, a set will save 200 grams compared to Conti Competitions.

2. Cranks: If jou have Dura Ace, you can save around 250 grams with the latest generation carbons (Zipp VumaQuad etc)

3. Handlebar: The light Zipp handlebar is 100 grams less than ITM's Ksword.

4. Speedplay pedals. The Zero Ti's are 82 grams/pedal, Nanograms are 62 grams /pedal, so there is at least a 200 gram saving.

5. Brake calipers.From Dura ace calipers to KCNC's will shave 150 grams.

 

Total: -900 grams. This wil take your bike right past the 6.8 UCI number and down to an illigal 6.45 kg's. A quick cost estimate for the se upgrades comes to R17k, or R19/gram
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Besides component weight, don?t forget what you wear. Shoes can save easily 150 or more grams in total. <?:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />

Check out this comparison:

<?:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" />Lake cx400, Specialized BG S-Works,DMT Flash all around the 240g mark

Compared to

Carnac M7 Carbon 305g (130g heavier for the pair)

Sidi Ergo 2 Carbon 315g (150g heavier for the pair)

Shimano SPDSL Carbon 340g (200g heavier for the pair)

 

This brings me to the tech question of the day:

 

Not only does the extra weight on your shoes matter on uphills, but it has to matter when constantly spinning and stopping your shoes i.e. you accelerate and decelerate your shoes thousands of times in a race. Is there a boff out there who knows of a formula to calculate this?

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What are you guys on?!

I ride a 2006 Raleigh RC3000 with Tiagra 9-speed (which I paid R4900 for)!

The bike weighs 12+kgs..!

 

I am 1.79m tall and weigh 62kg (approximately 6-7% fat)

And I'll 'out-climb' any of you guys (excluding elites)!

 

I been cycling for about 1,5 years and during funrides I get ragged about my 'el-cheapo' bike, and I get a little annoyed.

Riding a more expensive, stiffer, lighter ride, doesn't make you a better rider...

 

 
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Beak' date=' it sounds like a great bike as it is. No upgrades needed IMO.

If you are a hard core weight weenie, hoever, you can still lose some grams:

1. Tufe Elite Jet tires, a set will save 200 grams compared to Conti Competitions.

2. Cranks: If jou have Dura Ace, you can save around 250 grams with the latest generation carbons (Zipp VumaQuad etc)

3. Handlebar: The light Zipp handlebar is 100 grams less than ITM's Ksword.

4. Speedplay pedals. The Zero Ti's are 82 grams/pedal, Nanograms are 62 grams /pedal, so there is at least a 200 gram saving.

5. Brake calipers.From Dura ace calipers to KCNC's will shave 150 grams.

 

Total: -900 grams. This wil take your bike right past the 6.8 UCI number and down to an illigal 6.45 kg's. A quick cost estimate for the se upgrades comes to R17k, or R19/gram
[/quote']

 

Some nice upgrades. Personally I'll skip the pedals.
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What are you guys on?!

I ride a 2006 Raleigh RC3000 with Tiagra 9-speed (which I paid R4900 for)!

The bike weighs 12+kgs..!

 

I am 1.79m tall and weigh 62kg (approximately 6-7% fat)

And I'll 'out-climb' any of you guys (excluding elites)!

 

I been cycling for about 1' date='5 years and during funrides I get ragged about my 'el-cheapo' bike, and I get a little annoyed.

Riding a more expensive, stiffer, lighter ride, doesn't make you a better rider...

 

 
[/quote']

Nobody have been talking about climbing faster. The point under discussion is making a bike lighter. Why do it? Because you can. Because it is nice to own a nice bike.  Think about cars, even though the speed limit in SA is 120km/h some people still spend a lot of money on Porches, Lambos, Ferrari's etc. when a 1400 Nissan champ or VW Citi can also do 120km/h. 

 

In reality, few climbs in SA is long enought for a lighter bike to make a big difference. That is why I said that I think 7.35kgs is good enough.

 

Re the challenge:

Are you saying you are the best non elite climber on the Hub?
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I am 1.79m tall and weigh 62kg (approximately 6-7% fat)

And I'll 'out-climb' any of you guys (excluding elites)!

 

 

Them FEISTY words.....I like it!!! 

Care to join us for a climb or two...?  http://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider/naughty.gif

 

 

Re the challenge:

Are you saying you are the best non elite climber on the Hub?

 

Christie.......it sounds like he is saying we climb like girls!!!  LOL  Well....you anyway.  http://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider/smooch.gif

 
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LOL, sorry I'm venting!

 

Just get irritated that at races, some people think they are better cos they got a HOT ride...

Nothing wrong with spending your hard earned bucks on a bit of bling.

Was just itterating that people mustn't assume because he/she (or me) is on a *** bike, we're not good... if that makes sense.

 

As for am I the best climber on the HUB?

I'd like to think I'm pretty close...
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I see a new hill climb challenge coming up....yippee

 

Let's hope this one actually takes place, not like our fat boy challenge (pissies)
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What are you guys on?!

I ride a 2006 Raleigh RC3000 with Tiagra 9-speed (which I paid R4900 for)!

The bike weighs 12+kgs..!

 

I am 1.79m tall and weigh 62kg (approximately 6-7% fat)

And I'll 'out-climb' any of you guys (excluding elites)!

 

I been cycling for about 1' date='5 years and during funrides I get ragged about my 'el-cheapo' bike, and I get a little annoyed.

Riding a more expensive, stiffer, lighter ride, doesn't make you a better rider...

 

 
[/quote']

Training makes you a better rider, a lighter bike makes you go faster. Buy a decent bike and your mind will be changed immediately. Loose 6kgs on your equipment and you will probably outclimb even the elites.
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A better bike is not going to make any difference to your average riders\ that i think we can all acknowledge, for example the only real difference between is Ultegra and Dura Ace is 200g odd and a couple of thousand bucks. It does make you feel good though, and if you can afford it, why the hell not. Someone is till going to eat your lunch on a big hill on a bike thats half the price if they've done the work.

 

Whats makes me sad is to think how much really expensive carbon is hanging up in garages all over SA (particularly the northern suburbs of JHB) that never get ridden

 

Sungun252008-02-21 05:13:29

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Doug You should know reciprotaing parts have a 2 to 1 ratio in other words taking 100grams off your crank wheels etc is the same as taking 200grams off your frame.

 

 
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LOL' date=' sorry I'm venting!

 

Just get irritated that at races, some people think they are better cos they got a HOT ride...

Nothing wrong with spending your hard earned bucks on a bit of bling.

Was just itterating that people mustn't assume because he/she (or me) is on a *** bike, we're not good... if that makes sense.

 

As for am I the best climber on the HUB?

I'd like to think I'm pretty close...
[/quote']

 

 

He...he...he..

 

You would be amazed to see who is on the Hub!!!  http://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider/bmwrider.gif

Some good quality guys and girls. 

Some of them crap like Nochain.  http://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider/naughty.gif

 

As for the bike.

Well I used to ride a Hansom......(Don't tell anyone) and I LOVED to go past these pansies like Marius up the climbs passing them on their Specialized this and Colnago that!! 

 
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Please, please, please while we are on the topic of light frames - can someone tell me:

 

I ride a Trek WSD Aluminium frame.  I weigh 53kg and go better up the hills than down, understandably.  How much difference would it make to my cycling if I got hold of a Solis carbon frame considering my weight.  Could I really be blown over by JHB wind?  Currently my Treki with all the components weighs about 10kg or more.
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Geez Jedi, such a small frame and it weighs 10kg. You will enjoy the lighter bike and no you will not be blown off, may just a bit over. but that is not due to losing jsut 2.5-3kg.

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