Dubber Posted December 10, 2013 Share Ladies and Gents I'm keen to give re-spraying my frame(s) a go. I'm under no illusion that this will be a simple task or that I'll get pro results - but I'm always keen to try something new. So this is on my list of 2014 goals So, for those that have dabbled with this themselves or perhaps work in a related industry, are there any recommendations with regards to te following in terms of brands and/or suppliers: CompressorsGunsPaints All of the above are available from Builders W etc, but my general experience tells me that the items stocked at these types of stores will most likely be mediocre at best. (Don't get me wrong - I don't need top of the range stuff, but I would like something that can get the job done properly and that will last more than 6 months ). Is my assumption correct? Or will they do a decent job? Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtrider Posted December 10, 2013 Share You are correct that the Builders stuff are not top of the range but for what I think you want to do it will be fine . You got to learn how to use the equipment you got correctly . You can still have a very decent spray job with some of the smal compressors , just gotta know when to turn the gun away . BUT no matter what you got , if you gonna spray any paint get as many inline condensators etc on your unit . Low pressure is not what makes a kuk spray job , it's water most of the time . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobbo_SA Posted December 10, 2013 Share Yip, quite easy, we spray our model planes, same process. 1. Builders warehouse for 24 - 50l compressor, 24l will be more than enough for a frame (and tubeless conversions etc), when you start bigger projects you dont want the thing trying to keep up all the time and even worse having to wait for it to build up pressure while you are halfway through a run. R1000- R1200 2. Tony's colours (OR any autobody paint supplier) for Spray gun, approx R250-350 for a decent one, you dont need a massive one, a frame would only need around 200ml paint 3. Tony's again for paint and supplies (Some places only mix in 500ml batches): a. 250ml - 2K Primer b. 250ml - 2K Colours (you can get them to mix any colours) c. 500ml - 2k Hardner d. 250ml - 2k Clear e. 5l Thinners - we use the cheap stuff, have found no difference in using 2k thinners vs laquer thinners f. Couple of mixing cups and possibly a mixing ruler (both the cups and the ruler give you an easy way to get your ratios right) Google some youtube vids for spraying, quite simple once you have the paint consistency right and you remember not to release the trigger mid way over the area you are painting, always start before and let go once you are past the thing you are painting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V12man Posted December 10, 2013 Share http://autobodystore.com/forum/forum.php And do yourself a favour - stay away from cheap sprayguns and small compressors - for spraying a frame you only need a touchup gun - not a full size gun - but you still need a LOT of air - consider asking your local spray painters if you can rent their spray booth for a while. Rolfalps 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dubber Posted December 10, 2013 Share awesome stuff - thanks guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V12man Posted December 10, 2013 Share You are correct that the Builders stuff are not top of the range but for what I think you want to do it will be fine . You got to learn how to use the equipment you got correctly . You can still have a very decent spray job with some of the smal compressors , just gotta know when to turn the gun away . BUT no matter what you got , if you gonna spray any paint get as many inline condensators etc on your unit . Low pressure is not what makes a kuk spray job , it's water most of the time . The easiest and best way to remove air is to build a condensation loop out of copper or galvanised pipe - 2 6m pipes at a slight angle with a drain pip dropping out of the lowest point works better than any inline condenser - basically you blow compressor air in through the lower pipe, and take it out the higher pipe - if you can sweat copper pipe joints, takes less than an hour to build one. This is my loop - taken when I was installing it. Bobbo_SA 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobbo_SA Posted December 10, 2013 Share For a Porsche finsh, sure, you need that, perhaps overkill for a MTB frame that will get bashed up again eventually, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V12man Posted December 10, 2013 Share For a Porsche finsh, sure, you need that, perhaps overkill for a MTB frame that will get bashed up again eventually, Some of the bits you probably don't need for the frame .... like the overpressure blow off valve.... or the dual compressor intakes... But I did it right.... like to protect my impact gun from water... The big learning experience with building the ring air supply, was that in hindsight, I should have done it in copper.... a LOT easier than fitting and threading galvanised pipe... which is a major PITA... and a good upper body workout... Bobbo_SA 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grebel Posted December 10, 2013 Share Some of the bits you probably don't need for the frame .... like the overpressure blow off valve.... or the dual compressor intakes... But I did it right.... like to protect my impact gun from water... The big learning experience with building the ring air supply, was that in hindsight, I should have done it in copper.... a LOT easier than fitting and threading galvanised pipe... which is a major PITA... and a good upper body workout... How close is that condensate loop to the compressor? I currently use a portable vertical pipe separator. Basically a piece of pipe welded closed at both ends with an inlet and an outlet located near the bottom and the top respectively. The pipe diameter is about 2,5 / 3inch I think with a half inch flexible line. I use it as close to the gun as possible without hindering movement while you spray. There is a drain valve attached at the bottom and I leave it cracked open to drain the condensate. seems to work OK. Would be much more interested in that loop though.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobbo_SA Posted December 10, 2013 Share Some of the bits you probably don't need for the frame .... like the overpressure blow off valve.... or the dual compressor intakes... But I did it right.... like to protect my impact gun from water... The big learning experience with building the ring air supply, was that in hindsight, I should have done it in copper.... a LOT easier than fitting and threading galvanised pipe... which is a major PITA... and a good upper body workout... Agreed, will probably do it as I'm starting to spray more things, I did my plumbing in my kitchen when we rebuilt in copper and its such a pleasure to work with, with minimal tools required. Edit: Grammar Nazi Edited December 10, 2013 by Bobbo_SA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V12man Posted December 10, 2013 Share How close is that condensate loop to the compressor? I currently use a portable vertical pipe separator. Basically a piece of pipe welded closed at both ends with an inlet and an outlet located near the bottom and the top respectively. The pipe diameter is about 2,5 / 3inch I think with a half inch flexible line. I use it as close to the gun as possible without hindering movement while you spray. There is a drain valve attached at the bottom and I leave it cracked open to drain the condensate. seems to work OK. Would be much more interested in that loop though.... Compressors are outside - behind the wall, and connected via flexible pipe to the (in the last picture) lower 2 inlets you can see (and there is a drain below that) - then the air travels up the right hand side pipe, past the pressure relief valve (safety thing) you can see at the top, and then enters the top pipe of the cooling loop (first picture) with the drain halfway, and goes back down the middle pipe (with drain) - hops over the left hand pipe and has a filtration loop - (with space for more filters if needed) so currently there is a water/oil cyclonic separator, then a pressure regulator (with water trap), then a particle filter, and then the air goes up the left hand side pipe and enters a ring pipe that goes around the garages - and there are a few drop offs with regulators and water traps around the place. I get almost no water at all out of the cyclonic separator, and the regulator water trap is always dry to all intents and purposes, but the first 2 drains take most of the water collection, and one day I will fit some plastic pipe to them to a single collection point - cracking the drain under pressure generates a mess.... and because they are close to the floor, it lands up bouncing back into my face All the filters came from Air Supreme, and the regulators from builders and I largely followed their diagram - except for the refrigerated air dryer - which cold still be done, but is probably not needed unless I try a concours class paint job - and even then, probably not going to help my painting skills... This is the best 'architecture' diagram around I have found - except for the cooling loop, which I stole from somewhere else.. http://www.airsupreme.co.za/products/air_treatment.php Grebel and Dubber 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V12man Posted December 10, 2013 Share Agreed, will probably do it as I'm starting to spray more things, I did my plumbing in my kitchen when we rebuilt in copper and its such a pleasure to work with, with minimal tools required. Edit: Grammar Nazi I am NEVER going to do it in galvanised again... it's a lot of work to put in about 50m of pipe.... copper is the way to go.. 3/4 for the ring loop and 1/2 for the drops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dev null Posted December 10, 2013 Share Get the best HVLP gun you can afford along with a nice touchup gun. I got one at the local automotive finish specialists for R2000. Stay away from Builders Warehouse for guns. Get a decent compressor with the best filtration and water trapping you can afford. And get good paint. 2K is also what I use. And above all else, practice. Edit: A SATA Minijet will be an excellent choice for frames. But they are costly. I got a very good knock-off of the SATA. Look for a gun with brass components. Edited December 10, 2013 by Moridin Dubber 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V12man Posted December 10, 2013 Share Get the best HVLP gun you can afford along with a nice touchup gun. I got one at the local automotive finish specialists for R2000. Stay away from Builders Warehouse for guns. Get a decent compressor with the best filtration and water trapping you can afford. And get good paint. 2K is also what I use. And above all else, practice. Edit: A SATA Minijet will be an excellent choice for frames. But they are costly. I got a very good knock-off of the SATA. Look for a gun with brass components. For a bike frame all you need is the touchup gun - I have a Sagola Mini something or other - which is a phenomenal gun - better than the devilbiss I had before (lent it to a friend who clearly did not understand the word 'clean') - his loss, my gain. The Sagola is nice because it does not have rubber seals anywhere - and sprays like a dream - although it is pricey, and hard to get in SA last I looked - and it is easily big enough for a single panel repair job - especially as I am not the fastest painter around either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grebel Posted December 10, 2013 Share I need want another gun. Currently have a Devilbiss HVLP Suction feed gun and a small Aerograph gravity feed touch up gun. Might spoil myself with a gravity feed gun somewhere in between.... Edit: separated my wants from my needs... Edited December 10, 2013 by Grebel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V12man Posted December 10, 2013 Share I need another gun. Currently have a Devilbiss HVLP Suction feed gun and a small Aerograph gravity feed touch up gun. Might spoil myself with a gravity feed gun somewhere in between.... Good thinking... depending on what you spray, maybe lose the suction feed gun..... and swap it for a full size gravity feed gun.... with low air consumption.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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