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Isn't the more miniature hobbiest setup that one uses for models an option for bike frames?

 

 

To set up properly with an oil/moisture free big gun with enough cft/m is a mission as the V Man has shown, Most of the el-cheapo compressors from the mass marts are not suitable for a variety of reasons, at least the last time I looked into it.

Edited by kosmonooit
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Good thinking... depending on what you spray, maybe lose the suction feed gun..... and swap it for a full size gravity feed gun.... with low air consumption....

 

The suction feed gun was used to spray cars. I inherited it from my late father. Not sure I'm going to be spraying anything that big any time soon though so it might stay in the tool cupboard for the time being. Biggest things I plan on spraying in the immediate future are bike frames (and a cafe racer if I can sneak the bike into the garage without my wife seeing it. Not sure I could pull that off though)

 

Practice starts with my son's frame. Having some vinyl cut at the moment so I'll try my hand a at masking in the near future...

 

Mini Hijack:

 

Anybody do any pinstriping?

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The suction feed gun was used to spray cars. I inherited it from my late father. Not sure I'm going to be spraying anything that big any time soon though so it might stay in the tool cupboard for the time being. Biggest things I plan on spraying in the immediate future are bike frames (and a cafe racer if I can sneak the bike into the garage without my wife seeing it. Not sure I could pull that off though)

 

Practice starts with my son's frame. Having some vinyl cut at the moment so I'll try my hand a at masking in the near future...

 

Mini Hijack:

 

Anybody do any pinstriping?

 

If you are masking up so you can spray logos - them maybe buy a small airbrush - they spray 2k colour coats well and give you control and a very thin layer of paint so you don't get edges against the masking - a 2cc funnel is enough for most logos - then you just clear over it.

 

As to the pinstriping.....do it on top of clear coat - then you can clean it off again fairly easily without damaging the colour underneath - same for logos - colour, clear coat, logo colour, clearcoat.

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I am NEVER going to do it in galvanised again... it's a lot of work to put in about 50m of pipe.... copper is the way to go.. 3/4 for the ring loop and 1/2 for the drops.

 

Awesome setup. Sounds like you do some serious spraying? What do you do in terms of keeping the area dust free etc? From the pics, it doesn't look like you have a dedicated spray booth?

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I've used a R300 gravity feed gun and a R899 25L Makro compressor with an inline water trap to do some outstanding spray jobs on Motorbikes. A compressor with a small tank does mean you may have to wait for the tank to refill intermittently but it's not a train smash spraying smallish jobs.

 

Having the best quality tools is nice and vital for production if you use your tools for work but judicious use of basic rather crappy tools will still get you an outstanding spray job.

 

2K is also magic paint, that stuff makes spray painting an easier job, gloss in a gun, the 2k filler primers are also amazing . Just keep in mind less is more when applying the coats and proper preparation of the surface you spraying is everything.

Edited by Skylark
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If you are masking up so you can spray logos - them maybe buy a small airbrush - they spray 2k colour coats well and give you control and a very thin layer of paint so you don't get edges against the masking - a 2cc funnel is enough for most logos - then you just clear over it.

 

As to the pinstriping.....do it on top of clear coat - then you can clean it off again fairly easily without damaging the colour underneath - same for logos - colour, clear coat, logo colour, clearcoat.

 

Thanks. I should have paid more attention when my dad was spraying. Nobody to ask how to now except for Google.... I like the idea of separating the logos from the paint with the clear coat.

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Awesome setup. Sounds like you do some serious spraying? What do you do in terms of keeping the area dust free etc? From the pics, it doesn't look like you have a dedicated spray booth?

 

I don't do anything serious there - mostly I built it for my air tools... usually if I spray I clean the garage you can't see.. (next door) and damp down the floor - never had an issue to speak of - but I don't do concours work - racecar quality only... with built in patina.... :)

 

Garden blower helps a lot to get the dust out... takes a few days to get the place clean - a spraybooth works much better, and the last time I sprayed a whole car, I borrowed one off an old patient.

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Don't forget a dual cartridge mask, 2k smells quite kif but it's nasty for your health.

3M is good, its an expensive business just a decent mask and 1 set of cartridges will set you back around R900, I wouldn't like to compromise on the mask.

Edited by Skylark
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Isn't the more miniature hobbiest setup that one uses for models an option for bike frames?

 

 

To set up properly with an oil/moisture free big gun with enough cft/m is a mission as the V Man has shown, Most of the el-cheapo compressors from the mass marts are not suitable for a variety of reasons, at least the last time I looked into it.

 

AND - cheap guns use even more air than a quality gun... having enough air is always an issue - thus my solution was to provide for 2 compressors running simultaneously - but all the piping etc was sized to drive an impact gun big enough for centerlock wheels... so about 600Nm of torque minimum.

 

Spraying a frame with an airbrush would kill you... but to spray a frame all you really need to do is remove the water from the air, and the cooling loop will do this for you - and you really don't need to have the filters etc - just a small regulator/water trap/filter at the gun and you could spray outside in the shade - just keep kids away and people without masks if you use 2k paints.

 

One of the ideas I considered was using a loop/coil of copper pipe inside a bucket of cold water - air conditioning people have bendable pipe - and unless you are trying to spray a big area, then emptying it every so often will be more than good enough to use for spraying a frame - and a smallish LVLP gun.

 

Also useful is to set up a fan to blow overspray off the workpiece while you are spraying - but get ready to move it around a bit - or hang the frame in such a way you can move it around rather than the fan - wire works better than rope - and if you do use rope - check the solvent does not dissolve it... (don't ask how I know this....)

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I managed to snag a whole lot of 1mm SS TIG wire. Works a treat to bend up "S" hooks of different lengths to hang stuff with. I use the stiffening ribs on my sectional slider garage door when it is open to hang stuff (No concourse spray jobs here either...) That way you can walk around your piece.

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Isn't there also an issue with oil in the air that can effect the quality of the spray job?

 

Either filter it out or certain compressors are rated oil-free, I think that the conclusion I came to.

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Isn't there also an issue with oil in the air that can effect the quality of the spray job?

 

Either filter it out or certain compressors are rated oil-free, I think that the conclusion I came to.

 

Only if the compressor is fairly worn is it an issue - and it largely coalesces out when you drop out the water.

 

Empty out the compressor tank and you will see the water/rust/oil mixture in the tank - if it's really oily you might have an issue, otherwise you will be ok - you should in any case be doing this every time you use the compressor - small drain cock underneath.

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BTW, spraying outside in summer is a nightmare sometimes. Too much problems with muggies ending up in the paint. You then have to have a sealed area or spray booth.

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BTW, spraying outside in summer is a nightmare sometimes. Too much problems with muggies ending up in the paint. You then have to have a sealed area or spray booth.

 

 

LOL - this is Jhb... we don't have insects... too much pollution...

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Chat to the guys at Herbet Evans (not the art shop, the paint and equipment supplier)

 

They sell all kinds of guns, you may want to ask them what they recommend, but it is worth buying a decent gun and decent paint (2k ,or base coats with a 2k clear) as this is what counts for the quality of finish you can get.

 

Call Joes automotive and truck paints if your are in JHB.

 

Gun wise, buy the best gravity feed touch up gun you can.

 

A 50l compressor is the perfect size for bike frames, I spray at 3,5 bar.

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Or else, who's the best place to take a frame to for a top Q job?

 

I am looking at getting my Flash 26" Carbon frame done: that lekka stealth dull matt black, with black lettering

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