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1x10 problems


NicoBoshoff

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So my set up is as follows:

 

X9 Type 2 RD + Wolftooth NW 30t on SRAM crank with Trutativ bash guard.

 

For some reason I am still losing my chain off the front on really bumpy stuff (Like Old DH/Bennets/Flow at Jonkers)

 

I am 99% sure it's chain length related. I cut one link and although it improved it a bit I am still having problems on really bumpy stuff. The chain also bounces between rear cogs on the rough stuff.

 

Just cut more links or is my system somehow flawed?

 

I think I can still cut a link or two without extending the RD near risk zones.

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Okay - best way to check it is to fully deflate the rear shick, wrap it around the biggest cog and depress the suspension to the point that the chain growth is highest (where the derailleur stretches furthest forwards) then mark that spot, put the RD in the most forward position possible and then the chain should only have 2 single link overlapping (one big one small on either end)

 

Mark and remove unnecessary links and remember to count the quick link in your overlaps.

 

Mine hasn't yet come off and I ride like a plonker. Same setup as you except I run a 34 at the front.

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Okay - best way to check it is to fully deflate the rear shick, wrap it around the biggest cog and depress the suspension to the point that the chain growth is highest (where the derailleur stretches furthest forwards) then mark that spot, put the RD in the most forward position possible and then the chain should only have 2 single link overlapping (one big one small on either end)

 

Mark and remove unnecessary links and remember to count the quick link in your overlaps.

 

Mine hasn't yet come off and I ride like a plonker. Same setup as you except I run a 34 at the front.

 

When doing this is the chain woven through the RD? And a single link means a big&small combo right?

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Btw the RD must be FULLY extended when checking this. The overlap will ensure that it doesn't get past that point at any time

 

Fully extended, as in beyond the point where you can use the lock pin?

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The system is NOT perfect.

I have found on my hardtail, the chain will drop on certain types of track that create a certain "resonance" in the chain.

Also, pedaling backwards when in a small sprocket (11 or 12) will drop the chain too, due to the cross-chain angle it is at. Even if its just a quarter turn to correct the pedals to level, we do this subconsciously.

Adding a chain keeper will help keep the chain on. kind of defeats the weight savings slightly, but gives peace-of-mind.

 

remember you cant shorten the chain too much either, or the rear derailleur will be under too much stress when you use the 36 sprocket.

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Mine's the Stumpy FSR

The only way to test and remedy is to go with armpies advice...have only ridden and built 1x10 on hardtails we have yet to drop a chain over some gnarly terrain at speed...not even wolftooth ring...some straight up zee without chainguard.

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Is the clutch on the derailleur working properly?

 

I've never dropped a chain on my Tallboy or Cotic, both with Wolfteeth..

 

not even when back pedalling, and I ride really rocky stuff here in Gauteng

 

And strange to hear that its jumping between gears on the rear, that tells me the problem is related to rear derailleur

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I run a 1x10 with Wolftooth chainring on 29er HT. Absolutely no dropped chain yet and I have ridden plenty gnarly places. It has even held up with absolutely no issues in the XCO races I compete in.

 

Chain length needs to be done as follows: wrap the chain around the largest cog at the back and the chainring in the front. DO NOT route through the rear derailler. Overlap ends of the chain by a total of 4 links. (2 links on each end of the chain). length shouyld be correct.

 

I have added a picture to show you. I just fitted a 42T to my 11/36 cassette on friday.

 

post-35732-0-60936300-1392017405_thumb.jpg

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I run a 1x10 with Wolftooth chainring on 29er HT. Absolutely no dropped chain yet and I have ridden plenty gnarly places. It has even held up with absolutely no issues in the XCO races I compete in.

 

Chain length needs to be done as follows: wrap the chain around the largest cog at the back and the chainring in the front. DO NOT route through the rear derailler. Overlap ends of the chain by a total of 4 links. (2 links on each end of the chain). length shouyld be correct.

 

I have added a picture to show you. I just fitted a 42T to my 11/36 cassette on friday.

 

post-35732-0-60936300-1392017405_thumb.jpg

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Is the clutch on the derailleur working properly?

 

I've never dropped a chain on my Tallboy or Cotic, both with Wolfteeth..

 

not even when back pedalling, and I ride really rocky stuff here in Gauteng

 

And strange to hear that its jumping between gears on the rear, that tells me the problem is related to rear derailleur

 

I drop front and rear. Doubt it's the RD as it was 100% before the conversion (as in, it never jumped rear cogs on the rear before the conversion).

 

I'm fairly certain it's chainlength related.

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