100kg's on Dual Suspension

[kingmilo]

You should be able to lock your rear suspension out on that bike, so pedal bob shouldn't be a big issue.

 

Switching to a hardtail to gain 2kg in weight isn't going to transform your climbing (not if you weigh 100kg like I also do).

 

Frame size & geometry/setup as well as your shock setup will make more of a difference.

 

I agree after all the feedback that it's not the small weight gain but most probably the setup, hopefully the L size frame isin't a fail. I will try locking out my rear shock and going over my setup again, thanks for your input.

[Hairy]

Milo. .....Where in town are you?

 

Do you live and work in town?

 

I can swing past with my shock pump and see if we can get a better ride outof that Scott for you

[kingmilo]

Yup, live and work in town and that would be great thanks! But let me bring the bike to you seeing as though you doing me a favour

[Hairy]

Yup, live and work in town and that would be great thanks! But let me bring the bike to you seeing as though you doing me a favour

no worries....Work in town and cycle to work and all my meetings and sites anyway, so getting around the cbd is simple.

 

Could you please drop me a pm with your contact details and we can set something up for the new week

[V12man]

Milo. .....Where in town are you?

 

Do you live and work in town?

 

I can swing past with my shock pump and see if we can get a better ride outof that Scott for you

 

I was getting to the same conclusion - shocks are not running the right pressures at his weight most likely, but you beat me to it.

 

Hairy - also check the rear swingarm for a crack - close to the BB, while you are looking at it, just about under the front derailleur - makes for decidedly odd handling....

[Hairy]

 

I was getting to the same conclusion - shocks are not running the right pressures at his weight most likely, but you beat me to it.

 

Hairy - also check the rear swingarm for a crack - close to the BB, while you are looking at it, just about under the front derailleur - makes for decidedly odd handling....

will do....Also seen bikes loosing efficiency and handling due to a loose pivot bolt or two

[kingmilo]

Thanks, you guys have been very helpful, learnt a lot already! Hairy ill dm you soon shot!

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

will do....Also seen bikes loosing efficiency and handling due to a loose pivot bolt or two

 

100%. Also that the Scott isn't known as having a fantastic suspension platform, so it needs all the help it can get from the shock.

 

Not as much of a problem with DW & Maestro bikes wrt climbing.

[V12man]

will do....Also seen bikes loosing efficiency and handling due to a loose pivot bolt or two

 

And sticky/seized rear pivot bearings.

 

The other thing to do on the scott is to make sure to swap the little key dufus in the rear shock mount so the headset angle is more upright - changes the bikes handling considerable - just needs an allen key to flip it.

[MaXiMuM]

Hairy will sort this.

My 2 cents, the shocks need attention, they might be under pressure, and rebounding a little fast.

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Hairy will sort this.

My 2 cents, the shocks need attention, they might be under pressure, and rebounding a little fast.

 

Will echo this...

[Hairy]

From the spark manual. ...... SAG

SET-UP OF REBOUND NUDE 2 SHOCK

 

The SAG should be 10mm on the shock piston.

To check the adjustment, please follow as shown below:

1. Sit on the bike, put your feet on the pedal

2. Put your feet back on the ground and stand over the bike without bouncing the bike during this action

3. Check if the o-ring (S9) on the shock piston (S8) has a distance of 10mm to the main dust wiper/seal between shock housing and piston.

- if the distance between the o-ring and the main dust wiper/seal is 10mm, the air pressure is matching to your weight

- if the distance between the o-ring and the main dust wiper/seal is less than 10mm, the air pressure of the air chamber is too high and should be carefully reduced by using the bleed knob of the shock pump until the distance is 10mm.

- if the distance between the main dust wiper/seal is bigger than 10mm, the air pressure of the air chamber is too low and should be increased by using the shock pump until the distance is 10mm.

[kingmilo]

And sticky/seized rear pivot bearings.

 

The other thing to do on the scott is to make sure to swap the little key dufus in the rear shock mount so the headset angle is more upright - changes the bikes handling considerable - just needs an allen key to flip it.

 

I'm guessing you mean the BB height?

https://www.scott-sports.com/us/en/technology/bike/Adjustable_BB_Height/

[kingmilo]

From the spark manual. ...... SAG

SET-UP OF REBOUND NUDE 2 SHOCK

 

The SAG should be 10mm on the shock piston.

To check the adjustment, please follow as shown below:

1. Sit on the bike, put your feet on the pedal

2. Put your feet back on the ground and stand over the bike without bouncing the bike during this action

3. Check if the o-ring (S9) on the shock piston (S8) has a distance of 10mm to the main dust wiper/seal between shock housing and piston.

- if the distance between the o-ring and the main dust wiper/seal is 10mm, the air pressure is matching to your weight

- if the distance between the o-ring and the main dust wiper/seal is less than 10mm, the air pressure of the air chamber is too high and should be carefully reduced by using the bleed knob of the shock pump until the distance is 10mm.

- if the distance between the main dust wiper/seal is bigger than 10mm, the air pressure of the air chamber is too low and should be increased by using the shock pump until the distance is 10mm.

 

Thanks for the info Hairy! I've downloaded the manual and done some tests as outlined.

I think as pointed out above adjusting the BB height will help a bit with clearance.

I have also adjusted the rebound setting by 2 clicks clockwise to assist with rebound and will test.

The last test as you pasted above has very bad results (considering that I am doing it correctly!)

 

Firstly I ensure that the suspension lever is on full-mode (full suspension as I understand it), then I move the o-ring up to make contact with the shock piston, I then sit on the bike with my feet on the pedals, then move to a position where I am standing over the bike, ie. only contact I have is holding the handlebars and get the spacing between the piston and the o-ring measured. according to the Scott site it should be between 7-8mm at my current weight (103kg's this morning). The distance however is more like 10cm, when I get on the bike the piston drops almost flush with the bottom of the rod it moves on, moving the o-ring to that position, so when I get off the space between the piston and the o-ring is almost at it's maximum I would say which is around 10cm, if not more.

 

Is it then clear that the shock pressure is obviously not what it should be (191 PSI again according to Scott based on my weight and ride experience), it seems drastically off and could be the whole reason I am struggling to get around??

 

Thanks again to all you guys for your insight, I am learning fast here, much appreciated.

 

milo

[madbradd]

May also be worth trying to get a ride on an XL spark. Again setup is important.

[V12man]

I'm guessing you mean the BB height?

https://www.scott-sp...able_BB_Height/

 

Yes - that's the doofus I see that one uses a torx key, not an allen key.

 

What it effectively does is change the steering angle - slack means laid back turning, steep means quicker turning - you want it in the steep position (or I like it that way anyway...) - bike turns a lot better.