MTB - How long should a chain last?

[Tankman]

 

If you are getting a chunky sticky messy affair when using wet lubes then you are applying to much and not wiping off the excess, that's user error not the fault of the lube. I have seen what you have described on drive trains with wax lube, because too much was applied.

 

The way in which I apply lube is not in question here. I dont use wet lube or oil, no even in the wet and I have a pretty clear understanding on how to apply lube.

 

You do know that the exact stuff they use to blend car oils is used in many other diverse applications other than in car engines?

That people often use car engine/gearbox lubes on their bike chains is because they are easily available high quality oils at the required viscosity. Engine oil does not stop offering lubrication when cold, rather the challenge for manufacturers is for it to maintain its lubrication abilities when really hot. Cold oil on a bike chain lubes just as perfectly as it does on anything else/anywhere else, cold or for that matter really hot if it's a decent oil.

 

Yes I do know.

Do you know that they manufacture different types of lubricants for different applications?

Different lubrications for bicycles as for cars. Some lubricants perform better in certain conditions than others.

 

Sure cold oil will lube on a chain just as it would on anything else ... but it wont perform better than say something that was designed for that environment (exposed, dirt, water, mud)

 

So ... are saying that the oil will attract just as much dirt as a wax based lubicant?

 

 

 

 

[Skylark]

What's the difference between bike specific wet lube and engine oil of the same viscosity?

Or are you also against bike specific wet lubes, you did appear to be slating Porqui's use of engine oil just because it was marketed towards car engine usage?

[DJR]

Back to chain longevity:

 

I have found that since I started measuring my own chains, that they last about twice as long as when the bike shop measured and replaced them for me.

[Tankman]

What's the difference between bike specific wet lube and engine oil of the same viscosity?

Or are you also against bike specific wet lubes, you did appear to be slating Porqui's use of engine oil just because it was marketed towards car engine usage?

 

You still havent answered that one specific question before we can move forward.

 

Let me ask it one more time:

 

Are you saying that car oil will perform exactly the same as a bike spesific wax based lubicant?

 

Porqui said apply the car oil every second ride, implying that this is what he uses all the time.

 

And this is where we differ.

 

Read my question again, then answer.

 

 

[GaryvdM]

Interesting, thanks! Well as you can tell I'm no expert on chains but I do tend to keep it lubed etc. The method you're talking about - I must be having a blonde moment but I don't see where he talks about measuring the chain - as in a unit of measurement? He links to http://bicycletutor....e-chain-length/ but it's subscribe-to-watch.

 

This is the tool I got here: http://www.birzman.c...n=93&tech_sn=48

 

A picture says a thousand words: (please excuse that it's a road bike.)

 

Most chains are designed with a pitch of 1/2", so 12 link pairs should have a length of 12".

 

Measure how long 12 link pairs is on your chain. Subtract 12". This is the wear.

 

(This chain is has done over 8000km road use. It's starting to encroach on 1/16" wear. Almost time to to be replaced.)

Edited June 14, 2014 by GaryvdM

[Goodbadugly]

Lets see, pay a bit more for the correct lube or replace your drivetrain much sooner ... difficult choice.

 

 

Do you think this might qualify as fear mongering?

[Tankman]

Let me put it another way.

 

You bring you Dunlop, Raleigh, Game, Macro or Pick n Pay special to me for a service and I will gladly soak your chain in car oil, sump oil, Q20, Helix or Castrol.

 

You bring your Scalpel, Anthem, Flash, Tallboy, Epic, Spark, Propel, Foil, Venge, Dogma ... etc. to me for a service and I will only apply a bike spesific lubricant like Smoove, White Lightning, Squirt, Finish Line, RocknRoll, Purple Extreme ... (the list goes on and on) ... unless specifically instructed to use something else.

 

You bike, your choice!

 

When that choice is left in my hands and people entrust me to provide the best advice and expertise, I will only use the best tool available for that job.

 

I wont be using a cassette remover to remove your BB, I wont fill you petrol engine with diesel and I wont use freeking oil!

 

Now, go lube your chain ... mine is good to go!

 

 

[Goodbadugly]

This:

https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/109516-the-great-chaincassettegears-thread/

[porqui]

.

Edited June 15, 2014 by porqui

[Skylark]

 

You still havent answered that one specific question before we can move forward.

 

Let me ask it one more time:

 

Are you saying that car oil will perform exactly the same as a bike spesific wax based lubicant?

 

Porqui said apply the car oil every second ride, implying that this is what he uses all the time.

 

And this is where we differ.

 

Read my question again, then answer.

 

Oil will perform the same job as a wax based lube, and that is to lube inside the chain rollers.

As to the benefits of either lube delivery method, opinion is divided, there are advantages to either choice, you choose the option that suits you personally.

 

At the end of the day use whatever lube you want, just don't over apply it and most importantly keep your chain clean/clean it regularly. No matter what lube you choose your chain isn't going to go far if it is contaminated with dirt and due to the nature of the sport that's unavoidable no matter the lube.

[Johan Bornman]

Put another way: use an inch rule and measure over 12 inches (1 foot)

 

New chain will measure 0 to 12" oppiekop.

1/16" over 12" still fine

1/8" over 12" replace chain

Nope.

 

Acceptable wear is up to the 1/16th point. Once it has worn to double that, i.e. 1/18th elongation of 12 (24) links, you've ruined the cassette.

1/16th of an inch approximates 0.5% wear and 1/8th of an inch approximates 1% wear. Chain engineers have chosen 0.5% elongation as the upper limit.

[Johan Bornman]

I realise this could be like asking how long is a piece of string due to there being a ton of variables like elevation gain/distance ratio, power output etc. but on average, how many kilometres should the average common or garden chain last?

 

I fear my noobness may have cost me dearly on this one. When I got my bike, someone told me that it was around 1500km. Yesterday I realised that my chain has done over 2000km so today I rushed out and bought one of them chain checker tool thingy mabobs. I would have bought a new chain as well but the LBS was out of stock. Turns out the tool is slotting into the 1% wear mark. I know this is not good but what now? Do I just get a new chain ASAP and hope for the best or am I likely looking at a damaged cassette/rings now as well?

 

The thing that boggles my mind is that I checked my friend's chain too and she has done a total of about 1100km and her chain is slotting the 1% wear mark too. Is this normal?

 

Your friend's chain hygiene is bad, hence the accelerated wear.

 

However, those chain checker tools are rubbish. They have two errors: 1) a large reading error due to its short length and 2) a clean and dirty chain will give a different measurement since they read against the mobile rollers that will move lots on a chain and little on a dirty chain. Use the method shown above where an imperial measuring device longer than 12 inches is used.

[GaryvdM]

Welcome back to the hub Johan!

[Johan Bornman]

No bru!

 

You mean that stuff that goes black, messy, sticks to everything and attracts dirt.

 

Use the right tools (lube) for the job.

The mechanics of tribology is sometimes not obvious.

 

Stuff that goes black is good and stuff that doesn't go black is bad.

 

I'll explain. The black in the oil is metal particles worn off the chain, cassette and chainrings. It gets suspended in the oil and effectively removed (albeit just diluted) in the oil. Oil is liquid and gets pumped in and out of the various cavities of the chain via capillary action. If it turns black, you know what a) not all grit is still trapped inside the chain and b) that the oil is still lubricious.

 

If it doesn't turn black, you have a) no idea whether there is still lubrication inside the chain where it matters and b) you are assured that all wear grit is still trapped inside where it can do maximum damage via abrasion.

 

I suggest you look for a PDF on this side called Everything You Need to Know about chains. It is explained in detail in there.

[Johan Bornman]

Welcome back to the hub Johan!

 

Thanks.

[porqui]

Nope.

 

Acceptable wear is up to the 1/16th point. Once it has worn to double that, i.e. 1/18th elongation of 12 (24) links, you've ruined the cassette.

1/16th of an inch approximates 0.5% wear and 1/8th of an inch approximates 1% wear. Chain engineers have chosen 0.5% elongation as the upper limit.

 

 

Been corrected already by droo - thanx !

 

Now just help me out on the "oil".

 

Welcome back!