Sidmouth Posted September 7, 2014 Share I have a Fox 2012 PR 23 rear shock.If I grad the seat and lift I get this clunk feeling, like a bit of play ,and it is getting worse, I am hoping it is just a Bushing issue.Has anyone experience this and ope easy and accessible are these bushing units Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norm333 Posted September 7, 2014 Share Normally is the bushes on the shock Could be pivots if they are getting in age. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raydek Posted September 7, 2014 Share I have a FusionX shock and did the same thing. If you place you fingers on the bushes between the pivots and pull up on the seat and then drop like you did you should be able to feel which ones need to be replaced. Bushes for mine was less than R100. They seem to be one of those wearing parts that need to be replaced every now and then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wepat Posted September 7, 2014 Share yip had a CTD Fox shock same thing R250 bucks to replace its a common wear point Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyFrank Posted September 8, 2014 Share I have a Fox 2012 PR 23 rear shock.If I grad the seat and lift I get this clunk feeling, like a bit of play ,and it is getting worse, I am hoping it is just a Bushing issue.Has anyone experience this and ope easy and accessible are these bushing units What bike ? some bikes seem more prone to this, especially Giant. The aluminium half bushes are very soft and wear quickly, used to drive me crazy, Replaced them with Endura needle roller kit and have never looked back. You need to drive out the fox eylet bushing to replace it with the needle roller. pretty straightforward job but if you are not mechanically minded rather get a bike shop to do it for you. I ordered over e-bay from USA, company called Real World Cycling. great service from them. Maybe there is an SA importer for Endura products but in my experience the bike shops are not very clued up on this so you may as well order direct. ChUkKy and Raydek 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droo Posted September 8, 2014 Share Is it the Superfly? Bearings will still be fine, it's most likely just the bushing and possibly mounting hardware. A 10 minute job if the reducer's still fine, overnight if it needs replacing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sidmouth Posted September 8, 2014 Share Thank you Stoked Suspension , within 2 mins you have the bushing out and problem solved,. Edited September 8, 2014 by Sidmouth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raydek Posted September 8, 2014 Share Thank you Stoked Suspension , within 2 mins you have the bushing out and problem solved,.We are very lucky to have you just down the road. Cool What was the problem in the end? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sidmouth Posted September 8, 2014 Share worn bush and the inner race was also worn, the inner part was not in stock , however it has been ordered and will be ready tomorrow.Just a wear and tear item. ChUkKy and Raydek 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NINER_boy Posted September 8, 2014 Share Is it the Superfly? Bearings will still be fine, it's most likely just the bushing and possibly mounting hardware. A 10 minute job if the reducer's still fine, overnight if it needs replacing. Hi Droo I also have this from time to time on my Niner RIP9 rear shock.Replace the bushings on average every secind time I service the shock. My question to you, is will those RWC needle bearings solve this completely or last significantly longer? Hope you can help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Fantana Posted September 8, 2014 Share I usually only replace the the DU bush. The main reason is because I have machined mounting hardware out of bright mild steel which seems to last forever. I have a bag of 20 DU bushes, and it really only takes about 10 minutes to press new DU bushes into the shock eyelets and re-install mounting hardware. The correct tools are required to do it though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyFrank Posted September 8, 2014 Share Hi Droo I also have this from time to time on my Niner RIP9 rear shock.Replace the bushings on average every secind time I service the shock. My question to you, is will those RWC needle bearings solve this completely or last significantly longer? Hope you can help I can answer this for you. Yes. The problem will be gone.. I have done over 10,000km on one RWC bearing set and it`s still as good as new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droo Posted September 8, 2014 Share I can answer this for you. Yes. The problem will be gone.. I have done over 10,000km on one RWC bearing set and it`s still as good as new. What frame is it on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyFrank Posted September 8, 2014 Share What frame is it on?2008/2009 Trance X0 , 2 different bikes, same problems. Solved with RWC bearings ChUkKy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NINER_boy Posted September 8, 2014 Share I can answer this for you. Yes. The problem will be gone.. I have done over 10,000km on one RWC bearing set and it`s still as good as new. Hi DirtyFrank Who installed the needle bearing for you?Did you require special tools?And, where did you say you ordered the RWC from? Oh yes, what about the lower / bottom bushing?Did you get 2x sets of bearings and fitted top and bottom? Thx Edited September 8, 2014 by NINER_boy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skylark Posted September 8, 2014 Share I usually only replace the the DU bush. The main reason is because I have machined mounting hardware out of bright mild steel which seems to last forever. I have a bag of 20 DU bushes, and it really only takes about 10 minutes to press new DU bushes into the shock eyelets and re-install mounting hardware. The correct tools are required to do it though. What's bright mild steel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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