Can't get tyres on ZTR Crests

[brad890]

Here is a question...do you guys soap the rim and bead before fitting, also as cpt says...do you use proper levers...ie green crowbars is the only way

 

Yes to all of the above.

 

Even the guys at the bike shop said, that the bead on the WTB was extremely tight on the rim. like I said, fitted and seated a Maxxis in no time on the rear.

[rouxtjie]

Yes to all of the above.

 

Even the guys at the bike shop said, that the bead on the WTB was extremely tight on the rim. like I said, fitted and seated a Maxxis in no time on the rear.

ah I see...

 

Some tyres are more difficult than others, but then once they are on, its easy to get a seal going so its a double edged sword

 

Easy to fit

Maxxis monorail, crossmark, ikon

Any schwalbe

Any spez

Any conti protection

 

Hard to fit

Any geax

Any conti full UST

[Rouxenator]

Thanks for all the input, seems it will be stupid to not go tubeless with this Crests then. Seeing as I am willing to give anything a try I'm going tubeless then. Just a couple of questions though.

 

1) I bought some brand new Racing Ralhps - will they do for a tubeless setup or do I need new tyres?

 

2) If I do get a slash out in the middle of nowhere with tubeless, what are my options?

 

3) What will it cost me in total then to go tubeless?

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

ah I see...

 

Some tyres are more difficult than others, but then once they are on, its easy to get a seal going so its a double edged sword

 

Easy to fit

Maxxis monorail, crossmark, ikon

Any schwalbe

Any spez

Any conti protection

 

Hard to fit

Any geax

Any conti full UST

Add a wtb weirwolf to that list of buggermeimbroken tires when paired with a spank subrosa... i broke 2 crowbars on that combo.

[brad890]

ah I see...

 

Some tyres are more difficult than others, but then once they are on, its easy to get a seal going so its a double edged sword

 

Easy to fit

Maxxis monorail, crossmark, ikon

Any schwalbe

Any spez

Any conti protection

 

Hard to fit

Any geax

Any conti full UST

 

here we go, stans also has a list on their website

 

http://www.notubes.com/help/recommendedtires.aspx

 

Seems the WTB's were on their list of too tight tyres   managed to get them on anyway though

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

here we go, stans also has a list on their website

 

http://www.notubes.com/help/recommendedtires.aspx

 

Seems the WTB's were on their list of too tight tyres   managed to get them on anyway though

Funnily enough it was only the weirwolf that gave me problems. The wolverine was fine. Went on no problems. 

[James Mulholland]

Thanks for all the input, seems it will be stupid to not go tubeless with this Crests then. Seeing as I am willing to give anything a try I'm going tubeless then. Just a couple of questions though.

 

1) I bought some brand new Racing Ralhps - will they do for a tubeless setup or do I need new tyres?

 

2) If I do get a slash out in the middle of nowhere with tubeless, what are my options?

 

3) What will it cost me in total then to go tubeless?

It's not the alchemy people think it is. I assume Stans rims are already set up for tubeless. If not, the valves cost me R80 each, Rim tape R300 ( I used less than half), some insulation tape (already had). It took me one YouTube video and 30 minutes to do it all and I'm technically challenged and my IQ test results have always been quite discouraging. I fitted a non tubeless tyre on and pumped it up without sealant first time. This was all done on a non tubeless rim. Flats to date from two years of hard riding: 0.

I bought a patch kit just in case and I also ride with a tube for backup. You'll never look back.

[MuddyMike]

Thanks for all the input, seems it will be stupid to not go tubeless with this Crests then. Seeing as I am willing to give anything a try I'm going tubeless then. Just a couple of questions though.

 

1) I bought some brand new Racing Ralhps - will they do for a tubeless setup or do I need new tyres?

 

2) If I do get a slash out in the middle of nowhere with tubeless, what are my options?

 

3) What will it cost me in total then to go tubeless?

1) The Racing ralphs will tubeless fine on the Crests. Which do you have? Snakeskin, EVO or STD. All will work but puncture resistance and sidewall strength is compromised on the STD tyre due to it being thinner.

2) If you trash your tyre fit a tube. If the hole is too big you will need to place something between the hole and the tube to prevent the tube popping out. You can buy them but you will be amazed at what works - R10 note, energy bar wrapper, plastic folder cut to size etc etc.

3) Cost - Rim tape R50 - R100 per wheel, Stans Valves R250, 2 bottles sealant (Stans, Batseal) R150 each..... just rough estimates....

 

Around R600 randelas and you are sorted, Do it yourself, that's how you learn.....

[worriesnot]

little off topic:

this reminds me of a race at big red barn earlier this year.

came up to a guy changing a tire using these - proper motorbike wheel spoons.

apparently he couldn't find his bike levers before the race and packed these instead.

must be lank heavy to carry in your camelbak but at least they will not break.

 

or he could have just gone tubeless...

 

 

[brad890]

Note to anyone fitting tyres to crest rims, make sure the rotation is right the first time

[rouxtjie]

Thanks for all the input, seems it will be stupid to not go tubeless with this Crests then. Seeing as I am willing to give anything a try I'm going tubeless then. Just a couple of questions though.

 

1) I bought some brand new Racing Ralhps - will they do for a tubeless setup or do I need new tyres?

 

2) If I do get a slash out in the middle of nowhere with tubeless, what are my options?

 

3) What will it cost me in total then to go tubeless?

First things...well done, going tubeless will change the way you ride...remember softer pressures and all that.

 

1)Are they snakeskin schwalbes?

2)You wont often as in almost never get it, but most cuts can be fixed with a snotplug...if its a really big cut, you will need to gatorpatch it and fit tube, so practise getting the tyres on and off...remember move tyre bead to centre of rim profile of side that is already fitted...zero problems

3)Tape...valves...sealant = 150 + 200 + 100 = +- 400-500 bokke all in

[Edition 507]

In my experience, the secret to getting tyres onto Stans rims is......

 

 

 

 

Struggle your ass off!

[Rouxenator]

2) If you trash your tyre fit a tube.

That is what I am am afraid of with these rims, it is blooming impossible. Imaging having to do that out in the middle of nowhere.

[Guest Smimby]

What rim tape do you have on the crest rims.

 

Anything that is rubber is BAD, make sure you have only 2 layers of that yellow stans tape and also make sure that it is properly fitted into the "grove" in the middle of the rim.

[rouxtjie]

That is what I am am afraid of with these rims, it is blooming impossible. Imaging having to do that out in the middle of nowhere.

I promise you it isnt

 

Get proper levers

Fit the one side

Move bead to centre to rim profile

Fit other side

 

You are going to hate me right now, but I can do schwalbe with my hands only once I have moved the bead...it is that simple if you know the trick

[MuddyMike]

In my experience, the secret to getting tyres onto Stans rims is......

 

 

 

 

Struggle your ass off!

Not true if you use the right tyre combos.

 

I have used Schwalbe Racing Ralph and Nobby Nic, Conti Protection Race King and Mountain King, Maxxis Crossmark and Ikon and never had a problem, in fact could get most on by hand and seated with floor or hand pump.......