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Help with Tandem crank


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Posted

I am battling with my tandem crank (Front). It is a Truvative Elita. The front crank axel keep getting loose. I have taken it to technical people to Fuse/glue/press but it only lasts for about 500km.

 

I have enquired on buying just the front crank but have never come across a shop/dealer who can get just the front cranck. Cost wise I don't want to buy a whole crankset (front and back) because the back one is still fine.

 

My question to all the clever technical guys is. Will it work if I use a Mtb 1x10 crank? i was thinking of turning it around, as it fits on the left side of the tandem in the front. Will this work? is there a difference in the axel lenght of a Mtb cranck compared to a Tandem cranck?

Posted

 

The problem is that the pedal threads will be backwards, so unless you're running flats it won't work.

Ha ha, haven't thought of that - wil have to turn the cleats around ;-)

Posted

The problem is that the pedal threads will be backwards, so unless you're running flats it won't work.

it will work with SPD pedals or Cranks and most  dual entry MTB pedals.

 

It wont work if you are running road pedals, granted.

Posted

it will work with SPD pedals or Cranks and most  dual entry MTB pedals.

 

It wont work if you are running road pedals, granted.

 

You'll still have to turn the cleats around and clip in backwards.

 

Eggbeaters are the only ones I can see working normally.

Posted

You'll still have to turn the cleats around and clip in backwards.

 

Eggbeaters are the only ones I can see working normally.

Yep. Cos the cleat platform will be facing backwards. You can't move them to the other side, cos different threads, and I'd LOVE to see you trying to cleat in in reverse - reverse your foot in to the cleat, then press down with your toes... Your whole cleat in / out dynamic will be different, which is NOT good on a tandem. Or any bike, for that matter. 

 

Of course, you could remove the axles and switch them around so that the LH one goes in the now RH pedal and vice versa. If your pedals allow you to take them apart..

Posted

The pedals would also unscrew themselves on a regular basis, which is why pedal threads are handed in the first place.

 

(If you're a geek or an engineer, google precession)

Posted

If you don't use your small granny gear then do what we did. Moved the interlink chain to the right side and put the interlink on the small chainring. Use a normal double crank up front with just one blade and a triple ring crank at the rear. Did have a few alignment issues initially and also had to change from newer bb's to the older style ones. You can have a look at it at kremetart next weekend.

Posted

 

Where is it coming loose? Is it the axle bonding to the crank arm? In other words a failure of the joint?

Yes, the axel has those little grooves (they are all the same size except for one that is bigger, like on a free hub) The crank arm fits over this and I suppose it was press fitted in the factory. This is where it came loose.

Posted

 

Yep. Cos the cleat platform will be facing backwards. You can't move them to the other side, cos different threads, and I'd LOVE to see you trying to cleat in in reverse - reverse your foot in to the cleat, then press down with your toes... Your whole cleat in / out dynamic will be different, which is NOT good on a tandem. Or any bike, for that matter. 

 

Of course, you could remove the axles and switch them around so that the LH one goes in the now RH pedal and vice versa. If your pedals allow you to take them apart..

The axel does not look the same on each side. On the left hand side where it goes into the cranck arm with the spider, where you fit the chain ring, it has those little grooves like on a free hub. On the other side it has different grooves that fits into the right hand crank arm.

 

Remember a tandem front cranck has the chainring in the left side.

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