1x11 or not

[Rouxenator]

I don't like the ridiculously expensive 1x parts. You can get a nice 32t chainring for R500 and install it yourself. There you go, 1x is actually very cheap. Even if you do the whole drive-train it is still cheap, R600 for a 11-36t cassette and R350 gets you a new chain - still cheap. 

[TIB]

staying with the 2x10 - Priceless!!

 

sorry for the cheap shot    

[Rouxenator]

staying with the 2x10 - Priceless!!

 

sorry for the cheap shot    

There is that, but if you have a tired old 3x9 setup and the FD is beginning to give you grief it is a lot cheaper and nicer to just go 1x9. 

[IH8MUD]

Click in the pick to get it bigger and see better. 

[Rouxenator]

Looking forward to doing CTCT Sunday on my 1x8 road bike.

48t x 11t~34t 

[Joeboy69]

Click in the pick to get it bigger and see better.

Thanks for the visualization. If all the granny gears are so close to each other, is it just because of the greater gaps in between gears that make the 1x suitable for the stronger riders?

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Thanks for the visualization. If all the granny gears are so close to each other, is it just because of the greater gaps in between gears that make the 1x suitable for the stronger riders?

No. It's due to confirmation bias that "weaker riders" think that 1x whatever isn't for them.

[JXV]

For the prepared trails around Hilton and Howick/Karkloof where I do most of my riding, everything (except the climbs at Cascades) is comfortably ridable with 1x10 conversion on my 29er. It is also quieter and the chain stays on in the rough bits.

 

But every now and then I go exploring elsewhere with long stretches on dirt or tar and sometimes higher altitude with steep climbs where 2x or 3x is just way more pleasant. 2x and 3x systems can give both more bottom and more top end than a 1x system if you choose the right gears. The graphic posted previously by IH8MUD shows it quite well.

[Rich]

Can anyone help me understand whether there is any basis for the theory that a 1x11 set up for the same high gear ratio (granny) as a 2x10 will be harder on your legs over a sustained long ride.

 

Is it anything to do with the torque needed to turn the front chainring which is then bigger (say a 30/32) than the smaller chainring on a double (say 24/26). Assume the cassette provides the same ratio.

 

So simply put its harder to turn a 30/42 than say a 26/36 because of the size of the front ring.

 

Is that why the theory is that normal riders in stage race should ride a double?

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Can anyone help me understand whether there is any basis for the theory that a 1x11 set up for the same high gear ratio (granny) as a 2x10 will be harder on your legs over a sustained long ride.

 

Is it anything to do with the torque needed to turn the front chainring which is then bigger (say a 30/32) than the smaller chainring on a double (say 24/26). Assume the cassette provides the same ratio.

 

So simply put its harder to turn a 30/42 than say a 26/36 because of the size of the front ring.

 

Is that why the theory is that normal riders in stage race should ride a double?

no

[JXV]

Can anyone help me understand whether there is any basis for the theory that a 1x11 set up for the same high gear ratio (granny) as a 2x10 will be harder on your legs over a sustained long ride.

 

Is it anything to do with the torque needed to turn the front chainring which is then bigger (say a 30/32) than the smaller chainring on a double (say 24/26). Assume the cassette provides the same ratio.

 

So simply put its harder to turn a 30/42 than say a 26/36 because of the size of the front ring.

 

Is that why the theory is that normal riders in stage race should ride a double?

You can't look at the front ring or rear cog sizes independently. They work as a pair. Using your example

 

1x11, 30 front with 42 rear: 1.40 turns of the crank gives 1 wheel rotation

 

2x10, 26 front with 36 rear: 1.38 turns of crank gives 1 wheel rotation

 

In this case the 2x10 is actually fractionally harder in granny than the 1x11 but the difference is less than 2% and I doubt you would notice.

 

But if you raced the 1x11 bike on a fairly open course you might find that the 30t chainring limits your top speed and you have to spin like mad to keep up. Using same math as above:

1x11: 30t front with 11t rear, 0.37 crank rotations per wheel rotation

 

2x10: 38t front with 11t rear, 0.29 crank rotations per wheel rotation

 

The difference in top gear ratios is some 27% and you'll notice that on a long fast stretch

[andydude]

You can't look at the front ring or rear cog sizes independently. They work as a pair. Using your example

 

1x11, 30 front with 42 rear: 1.40 turns of the crank gives 1 wheel rotation

 

2x10, 26 front with 36 rear: 1.38 turns of crank gives 1 wheel rotation

 

In this case the 2x10 is actually fractionally harder in granny than the 1x11 but the difference is less than 2% and I doubt you would notice.

 

But if you raced the 1x11 bike on a fairly open course you might find that the 30t chainring limits your top speed and you have to spin like mad to keep up. Using same math as above:

1x11: 30t front with 11t rear, 0.37 crank rotations per wheel rotation

 

2x10: 38t front with 11t rear, 0.29 crank rotations per wheel rotation

 

The difference in top gear ratios is some 27% and you'll notice that on a long fast stretch

I am also trying to understand. And what you describe is more theory and only counts when you are at speed?

 

The bigger the chainring, with same gear ratio as another but with smaller chainring, the more difficult (more power) to accelerate?

 

And thus, with mtb there are more stop/go therefore bigger chainring will impact you?

[JXV]

I am also trying to understand. And what you describe is more theory and only counts when you are at speed?

 

The bigger the chainring, with same gear ratio as another but with smaller chainring, the more difficult (more power) to accelerate?

 

And thus, with mtb there are more stop/go therefore bigger chainring will impact you?

No. If two different sets of front and rear gears give the same overall ratio then either accelerating or cruising at steady speed the resistance your legs will feel is the same.

 

For example.

Front 32 rear 42, typical of a 1x10 or 1x11 granny setup is exactly the same as a Front 26 rear 34, a fairly common 2x10 granny setup.

 

A lot of 2x10 setups have 11-36 cassettes instead of 11-34 and these give a little more relief in granny than the above example by around 6%

[JXV]

Double posted somehow..sorry

[Monark]

I think that you are focusing too much on ratio and not considering the torque needed to turn a bigger front chain ring.

 

Yes the ratio is very close but you have to apply a greater force with a bigger front ring.

 

I think that this is why it takes us average riders some time to get to grips with a single ring.

 

I saw it again on a long ride this morning, the 1x riders were very fatigued at the end.

 

1x is very cool and has its place but I personally need a wider spread of gears that let me cater for every situation

[andydude]

No. If two different sets of front and rear gears give the same overall ratio then either accelerating or cruising at steady speed the resistance your legs will feel is the same.

 

For example.

Front 32 rear 42, typical of a 1x10 or 1x11 granny setup is exactly the same as a Front 26 rear 34, a fairly common 2x10 granny setup.

 

A lot of 2x10 setups have 11-36 cassettes instead of 11-34 and these give a little more relief in granny than the above example by around 6%

 

Thanks for the answer, but please be patient with me!

 

Using your example, is it true that from 0km/h the 32/42 would require more leverage/strength to start turning and get to speed than the 26/34? Or not?

 

Edit: Yes, like Monark said, that would be true from my statement? You need more torque to turn bigger chain ring compared to same gear ratio setup, but with smaller chainring?