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LexieB

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Posted

Upgrade to Di2 and the front derailleur will sync with the back as it moves...preventing chain rub on the front...then tyres seems to be louder [emoji12]

 

My 3 X 9 sp rubs all the time...a mate suggested I use rock n roll lube "gold" ...still makes a noise...just less.

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Posted

I think twice a week but if it rains or your ride through puddles or sand, the have a look at it and make a call. As long as you lube it well, you can't clean it too often. But I know mine is dirty by the way the gears change, so it's something you get a feel for. Well that's what I've found... I'm sure someone will disagree... 

 

A good tip I got for lubing, is you hold the bottle at an angle to the chain and turn the cranks backwards, 10 turns will have gone through the chain twice. A little lube dribbles out as the chain passes under it. Give it a few minutes and if you use wet lube, give it a wipe with a tissue, you want the lube in the chain links, the rollers. I was using wax lube but now I'm trying out wet lube. 

 

I like a clean chain. I've got rather pedantic about t...

 

 

Clean with some washing powder it cuts grease the best and then oil as explained

Ride with a straight chain and remember some gears are duplicated so you don't have to use every gear. Your front derailer might need some adjusting

 

Thanks guys - I'm hoping to find the time to do this during the week, although my schedule is pretty hectic so might only get to it this weekend. But will definitely try out these tips, thanks! 

 

LexieB,

 

Was the bike doing this before or is it a new problem?

 

On a road bike (10 speed back cluster or less) my view is that you should be able to use all your gears on both chain rings in the front.

 

Although it is not ideal to cross the chain you should be able to in a pinch.

 

Did the front derailleur get bumped by any chance? It is possible that is has gone slightly out of alignment or even that there needs to be small adjustments made to the cable tension.

 

What kind of equipment do you have on the bike? (Shimano 105/ Sram - colour)?

 

It wasn't doing this before, no. I'm not aware of it being bumped; I handle the bike like it's a rare diamond (I'm super pedantic about my equipment and even more so with this because I am borrowing it from someone) although we did have movers in the house not too long ago and they could have moved it around and bumped it. Will have a close look at it tonight and see if I can notice anything out of the ordinary. 

 

Re equipment, I'm not sure. Like I said, hardcore newbie here! Will check that out tonight as well :) 

 

Upgrade to Di2 and the front derailleur will sync with the back as it moves...preventing chain rub on the front...then tyres seems to be louder [emoji12]

 

My 3 X 9 sp rubs all the time...a mate suggested I use rock n roll lube "gold" ...still makes a noise...just less.

 

What is Di2? This sounds very cool though! Hoping to buy my own bike this year some time, so will kit that out  as far as budget allows :D 

Posted

Thanks guys - I'm hoping to find the time to do this during the week, although my schedule is pretty hectic so might only get to it this weekend. But will definitely try out these tips, thanks! 

 

 

It wasn't doing this before, no. I'm not aware of it being bumped; I handle the bike like it's a rare diamond (I'm super pedantic about my equipment and even more so with this because I am borrowing it from someone) although we did have movers in the house not too long ago and they could have moved it around and bumped it. Will have a close look at it tonight and see if I can notice anything out of the ordinary. 

 

Re equipment, I'm not sure. Like I said, hardcore newbie here! Will check that out tonight as well :)

 

 

What is Di2? This sounds very cool though! Hoping to buy my own bike this year some time, so will kit that out  as far as budget allows :D

Di2 is "The REALLY expensive stuff!".

 

It's an electronic shifting system, so you press a button your front and rear derailleurs have little motors on them that change gears.Expect to pay around R20k for just the bicycle components alone.

 

Normal mechanical groupsets have a lever (your gear lever) with a ratchet inside that winds up a steel cable. The steel cable pulls your derailleur into place.

 

Also.... how many gears do you have up front (2 or 3) and how many at the back (9 / 10 / 11)? And if you can tell.... what components are they? (look at the writing on the rear derailleur and the brake/gear levers) This might help us give you a more customised answer.

 

Edit: Maybe take a few pics of the components?

Posted

Di2 is "The REALLY expensive stuff!".

 

It's an electronic shifting system, so you press a button your front and rear derailleurs have little motors on them that change gears.Expect to pay around R20k for just the bicycle components alone.

 

Normal mechanical groupsets have a lever (your gear lever) with a ratchet inside that winds up a steel cable. The steel cable pulls your derailleur into place.

 

Also.... how many gears do you have up front (2 or 3) and how many at the back (9 / 10 / 11)? And if you can tell.... what components are they? (look at the writing on the rear derailleur and the brake/gear levers) This might help us give you a more customised answer.

 

Edit: Maybe take a few pics of the components?

 

Haha ok so that's out of the bike build then!  :lol:

 

I'll snap some pics tonight. I know there are two at the front but not certain about the back...

Posted

Di2...as a newbie to cycling I had not intention of buying a bike with fancy gear... i would have been happy if i could have found a 2014/5 giant tcr with 105 components 10 sp ...i couldnt find one...unfortunately i got spoilt and ended up with an absolute bargain...now i want to fit di2 on the the anthem ...just imagine how cool it would be it you could set the fork and shock wireless [emoji6]

Posted

I forgot to take pics last night; had a late training session and pretty much passed out as soon as I got home. I have this evening off though so I will definitely take pics tonight! 

 

Di2...as a newbie to cycling I had not intention of buying a bike with fancy gear... i would have been happy if i could have found a 2014/5 giant tcr with 105 components 10 sp ...i couldnt find one...unfortunately i got spoilt and ended up with an absolute bargain...now i want to fit di2 on the the anthem ...just imagine how cool it would be it you could set the fork and shock wireless [emoji6]

 

 

haha isetech it sounds like you got your ducks in a row! With my budget at the moment, I'm aiming for a complete bike for R15k (ideally less!) I have seen a couple that I like that are around R12k complete, but this is a long term plan. I've got a lot of training expenses this year and need to budget for Ironman 70.3 next year (that alone is going to be around the R10k mark) so fancy components are largely out of the question for me! 

Posted

I prefer not to use water, soap or detergents on my chain. If you remove all the grease all chains have parts that are susceptible to rust. The water that gets into the inner parts does not dry out easily and it inhibits the penetration of clean lube when you relube the chain.

 

So I use paraffin and an old toothbrush to rinse and clean the chain. It easily dissolves old lube so it can be removed and also draws in the new lube applied after chain cleaning . After paraffin wash, hang it up to dry. Then refit to the bike and lube about 1 drop per link.... let it soak in and wipe off the excess.

 

Lube on the outside of the chain just collects gunk and is no use at all. The lube is needed inside the chain's links and rollers and also in between the overlapping inner and outer link plates.

 

If the chain gets too dry it will 'grumble' and eventually squeak loudly. Shift quality will also deteriorate. You'll develop a feel for this and should ideally apply lube before the grumbling starts.

Posted

I prefer not to use water, soap or detergents on my chain. If you remove all the grease all chains have parts that are susceptible to rust. The water that gets into the inner parts does not dry out easily and it inhibits the penetration of clean lube when you relube the chain.

 

So I use paraffin and an old toothbrush to rinse and clean the chain. It easily dissolves old lube so it can be removed and also draws in the new lube applied after chain cleaning . After paraffin wash, hang it up to dry. Then refit to the bike and lube about 1 drop per link.... let it soak in and wipe off the excess.

 

Lube on the outside of the chain just collects gunk and is no use at all. The lube is needed inside the chain's links and rollers and also in between the overlapping inner and outer link plates.

 

If the chain gets too dry it will 'grumble' and eventually squeak loudly. Shift quality will also deteriorate. You'll develop a feel for this and should ideally apply lube before the grumbling starts.

 

Thanks for the advice :) 

Posted

I'm in PE. I can have a look at it for you. I'm no expert, but I've built a few bikes over the years and sort of learned as I've gone along.

 

You can pm me and we can get together if you want too.

Posted

I'm in PE. I can have a look at it for you. I'm no expert, but I've built a few bikes over the years and sort of learned as I've gone along.

 

You can pm me and we can get together if you want too.

 

Thanks Eugene, I've messaged you :)

Posted

Your chain can also be stretched to much and the cassette worn out .If the bike is old and well used without having been serviced this will happen and the  small gears in the cassette are the first to go because their teeth  are few and take more torque .Under pressure the chain will jump over the small gears .Take pictures of the cassette and post them here 

Posted

Hi LexieB,

 

Thanks for the Pics.

Some things look like they need some attention:

The chain is rusted and alo needs chain lubricant urgently. De-rusting the chain will be a good idea but replacing it would be a better plan.

The front Derailleur is also rusted and is in urgent need of attention. For a quick and nasty fix, spray t he whole thing with Q10 or Q20 and wipe it off.

It seems possible that small adjustment to the limit screws could resolve your chain rubbing on it. Just turn the top one anticlockwise by 1/4 turn. Make sure it does not go so far out that the chain gets thrown off.

The front chain rings look worn but that is not the cause of your problems at the moment.

 

Hope Eugene can get to you and help out a bit.

Posted

FYI. Some more specific info for you to know about your bike.

 

Your bike looks like it has mostly Shimano Tiagra components (called a groupset) with the rear derailleur being a Shimano 105. Then there's a 9 speed cassette on the back (There are 9 cogs that you can change gears on with your right hand shifter). With the 2 chainrings you have at the front (changed with the left hand shifter) we would typically describe your gear setup as a 2 x 9.

 

As has been mentioned if your gears are set just perfect you may be able to get all the gears at the back to go both up and down the cogs without any rubbing noises, but this is still not good for the chain. You never want small front and small back, or big front and big back to be selected together as the chain bend will wear the chain, cassette and chainrings quicker!

 

A visit from Eugene sounds like your best option at this stage! Without speaking for him, most guys take payment in beer. :ph34r:  :devil:  :whistling:  (Except Lurch, he seems like he prefers payment in kind....) :devil:  :devil: :thumbup:  

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