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Shimano ultegra Di2


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I will happily still too mechanical for a good few years still, the tech on electric is way to new for my liking; as with computers and cell phones. Sorting out gremlins and fine tuning only kickc in a few "generations" later.

 

There seems to be a business opertunity for an electrical engineer here though, if warranty lapse after 2 years. Pretty sure Shimano is not making electrical parts, circuits or switches in-house.

While they probably don't manufacture many of the parts in-house, it's very possible, even probable, that the parts or proprietary to them, so getting a hold of replacements isn't going to be easy.

 

With that being said, Di2 isn't particularly complicated from a technological point of view. It's just a strong servo with a basic logic controller to handle indexing of gears and such.

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The bottom line...

 

i am not the original owner.

 

The warranty for Di2 is only 1 year...the bike is older than 1 year.

 

Time for a bit of DIY...i need to strip the lever and check...spray the good old electrical cleaner...i have got nothing loose...i need to check if there is a plug from the micro switch to the junction box on the hood.

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Do you have a recording of the sound?

 

Also, you can use a comma instead of "..." ;)

 

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Good idea...think i will try record the sound...

 

as indicated by the rep...it could sound like the lever but be coming from somewhere else...i am getting old it could be my joints [emoji12]

 

Dot dot dot has become such a bad habit...been doing it for 10+ years [emoji851]

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Good idea...think i will try record the sound...

 

as indicated by the rep...it could sound like the lever but be coming from somewhere else...i am getting old it could be my joints [emoji12]

 

Dot dot dot has become such a bad habit...been doing it for 10+ years [emoji851]

Record the sound and post it.

 

There should be at least two wires running into the switch. I also expect it to be relatively low voltage and current. I find it strange that such a setup would make an audible sound.

If the sound is truly coming from the selector, I'd rather look at something else rattling, rather than the electronics themselves being faulty.

If the sound is audible and due to a poor connection, sparks may be visible and you could potentially smell burnt metal if you bring your nose close to the connection.

The switch may have an internal fault ad well, which would require replacement of that part specifically.

 

Your real power will be between the batteries and servos, so nowhere near your handlebar. Frames sometimes carry sound to all sorts of places though.

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The thing that gets me...put the bike in a quiet room and press the lever a million times...click click is all you hear...no crackling / loose connection sound...

 

put the bike on the road and ride it...i can hear the noise...it comes and goes...intermittent...the reason i thought it could be a loose plug.

 

Anyone have a vibrator? I could put it under the front wheel to simulate riding the bike...just kidding [emoji12]

 

It is a pity i dont have a spare bike with di2...i could just swop the lever and try it.

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The thing that gets me...put the bike in a quiet room and press the lever a million times...click click is all you hear...no crackling / loose connection sound...

 

put the bike on the road and ride it...i can hear the noise...it comes and goes...intermittent...the reason i thought it could be a loose plug.

 

Anyone have a vibrator? I could put it under the front wheel to simulate riding the bike...just kidding [emoji12]

 

It is a pity i dont have a spare bike with di2...i could just swop the lever and try it.

Have you checked all the shifter connections?

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Have you checked all the shifter connections?

The plan is to start at the front and work my way to the back of the bike...checking everything...especially the connections...all of them...my concern is that there is connections between the microswitch on the lever and the hood...i need to gain access...going to download the pdf with pics [emoji6]

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If you are going to be taking stuff apart then make sure you know how to put it back together.

Im hoping there isn't going to be a thread in a few days about re-assembling a di2 sti!

You mean best i replace the chain...cassette and chain ring on the trek before i attempt to trace the fault on the merida...otherwise i will have to change my entry for the tour durban to the 55 cyclocross...105 km would be a long way on the marshmallow [emoji12]

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the buzz could be coming from the spring behind the microswitch. It will vibrate round in circles and sometimes position itself so that's there's play between itself and the paddle.

just a thought

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I got a response to an email I sent to Shimano...there are some interesting points that i thought i would share...so next time you decide to upgrade your bike or purchase a second hand bike...you need to be aware of the implication of doing so...you could be the next  "box" whining about a warranty claim which a company refuses to repair.

 

(I have removed parts of the email)

 

 

Unfortunately this is correct as you are not the original owner and the provisional info is that the bike is 2 years or older. Then secondly due to the fact that it has sram cassette, chain and cranks ................on the bicycle which makes it very difficult to identify the problem accurately as this groupset is being used outside of design norms and over a prolonged period which can cause abnormal wear due to incorrect compatibility and possible failure. Our components are system engineered and therefore needs to be used as such.

 

Warranty is for original owner and also that the groupset is installed correctly and within design perimeters which in your case is not so due to mixing with non shimano components. We do not charge to come out to check/investigate issue but whatever costs the store incur for their help/labor and parts will be for your account.

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Got to love that they took time out of their day to write that bs

Edited by raptor-22
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Maybe the cheap fix is to add the climbing shifter and not use the flightdeck.

That is a smart idea. Would be much cheaper if the fault is in the shifter.

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