The right 650b tyre

[EttienneCT]

Hi everyone,

 

I am looking to replace the tires on my 2015 Giant trance 2 650b. I am riding the tygerberg MTB trails for 3 months now and still new to the scene.

 

I need some advice on the best value for money tyre and for the application. As i am still starting out i am not doing crazy DH rides, but would like to get a set of tyres that is good on the climb and decent on the descent.

 

Any recommendations and advice would be greatly appreciated. Currently riding on 27.5 x 2.3 purgatory tyres, but my rear wheel keeps going flat with no holes found and the cycle shop said i don't have proper tubeless tyres on... but a proper tubeless conversion was done. 

 

Please help as i don't know where to start....

[Patensie]

Wtb vigilante(f) and trailboss® combo serving me well. I will replace with same. Also consider onza ibex&canis.

[BaGearA]

Onza Ibex front and Cannis rear

 

If you want more aggresive you could put the Ibex on the rear and a Cittrus on the front

 

Best thing is you get them in 120 TPI so they are almost bombproof

 

 

Good Luck

[Trance Dance]

I reckon onza ibex or citius in 2.4 up front and ibex 2.25 on the rear. My OH has just gone from the trailboss to the ibex on the rear and is loving that combo. The trailboss wears down quite fast and starts sliding out. I'm definitely gonna replace my trailboss with an ibex as well.

[Matchstix]

The beeline is also a nice rear tire

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

woah woah - guys, hold your horses here. Before recommending different tyres for the application (all of which are great recommendations) let's apply a bit of common sense...

 

The purgatory is a great rear tyre, and if IT isn't seating, and is continually losing air, chances are so will another tyre, regardless of how good it may be. 

 

So - I'll ask a couple of questions:

 

1 - what type of casing is it? Grid? Control? If the latter, it's their lightweight casing and may be the source of your problems and it may leak air, and I'd suggest the GRID casing

2 - what tubeless conversion have you done? Ghetto? Stans? Who did it? It may not have been installed properly and the strip may not be seated properly. Also it may just be leaking air from there. 

3 - have you checked the valve itself for leaks? Often this is overlooked and is a source for LOADS of frustration

4 - what pressure do you run the tyre at? On the standard 19mm internal P-XC2's, you're going to have to ensure that your pressure is kept on the higher end, in order to keep the tyre bead seated and prevent burping of the tyre, which results in loss of air. That's unfortunately a side effect of the narrow rims. Something that is entirely rectified by going wider (that's what she said)

5 - are you sure there is no small cut in the sidewall of the tyre, just by the rim lip? Often these can't seal properly, and let air out at a very low rate. 

 

 

If it's the tubeless conversion that is suspect, then I'd suggest getting some gaffa tape / gorilla tape / duct tape and taping your rims (about 3 or 4 full layers out to do it) ensuring that you've covered the entire rim bed (NOT up the side of the rim - that would compromise the relationship between the lip and the bead) and get a tubeless valve (cheap - about R 120 for 2 from any LBS) and ensure that that sucker is screwed down TIGHT. I've personally had more success with the ghetto duct tape routine than the stans rim strip and valve all in one combo... 

 

 

Once all the above has been checked, and ruled out, THEN you may start looking at alternative tyres. But to go for a different tyre, after you've already got the industry's most affordable tyre brand, and if it's not the tyre your problems may well persist, is a bit premature. 

 

BTW - for a 2.25 - 2.5 tyre the optimal rim width would be over 20mm internal, preferably 25+. I'd list that as an upgrade on the trance as soon as possible. You only need buy one rim at a time if you want to. But it will ensure great improvement over the stock rims. 

Once all the above has been checked, and ruled out, THEN you may start looking at alternative tyres. 

[NGUTF]

woah woah - guys, hold your horses here. Before recommending different tyres for the application (all of which are great recommendations) let's apply a bit of common ....

.....a...k...a.... It's not Friday yet [emoji48][emoji48][emoji48][emoji48][emoji23][emoji23]

[hayleyearth]

The Ibex front and back (referring to the 2.4) will make you fit ... I find it to be the slowest tyre I've ridden thus far. When running at the right pressures (read what I always say: "when in doubt go 2bar") it is bomb proof, running lower say about 1.7 I've had a bit of issues so might be the combination with my rim. 

 

I'm actually also looking for new tyres currently, but have no idea what to get. Thinking of going back to Hans Dumpfs, I liked them, but can't get the compound (read 'indestructible version') I had anywhere in stock. 

[EttienneCT]

woah woah - guys, hold your horses here. Before recommending different tyres for the application (all of which are great recommendations) let's apply a bit of common sense...

 

The purgatory is a great rear tyre, and if IT isn't seating, and is continually losing air, chances are so will another tyre, regardless of how good it may be. 

 

So - I'll ask a couple of questions:

 

1 - what type of casing is it? Grid? Control? If the latter, it's their lightweight casing and may be the source of your problems and it may leak air, and I'd suggest the GRID casing

2 - what tubeless conversion have you done? Ghetto? Stans? Who did it? It may not have been installed properly and the strip may not be seated properly. Also it may just be leaking air from there. 

3 - have you checked the valve itself for leaks? Often this is overlooked and is a source for LOADS of frustration

4 - what pressure do you run the tyre at? On the standard 19mm internal P-XC2's, you're going to have to ensure that your pressure is kept on the higher end, in order to keep the tyre bead seated and prevent burping of the tyre, which results in loss of air. That's unfortunately a side effect of the narrow rims. Something that is entirely rectified by going wider (that's what she said)

5 - are you sure there is no small cut in the sidewall of the tyre, just by the rim lip? Often these can't seal properly, and let air out at a very low rate. 

 

 

If it's the tubeless conversion that is suspect, then I'd suggest getting some gaffa tape / gorilla tape / duct tape and taping your rims (about 3 or 4 full layers out to do it) ensuring that you've covered the entire rim bed (NOT up the side of the rim - that would compromise the relationship between the lip and the bead) and get a tubeless valve (cheap - about R 120 for 2 from any LBS) and ensure that that sucker is screwed down TIGHT. I've personally had more success with the ghetto duct tape routine than the stans rim strip and valve all in one combo... 

 

 

Once all the above has been checked, and ruled out, THEN you may start looking at alternative tyres. But to go for a different tyre, after you've already got the industry's most affordable tyre brand, and if it's not the tyre your problems may well persist, is a bit premature. 

 

BTW - for a 2.25 - 2.5 tyre the optimal rim width would be over 20mm internal, preferably 25+. I'd list that as an upgrade on the trance as soon as possible. You only need buy one rim at a time if you want to. But it will ensure great improvement over the stock rims. 

Once all the above has been checked, and ruled out, THEN you may start looking at alternative tyres. 

 

Thanks for the advice Myles, damn it's like 1 has to become an expert in all things rubber. Just the other day i spent all day researching tyres for my superbike, then it was run flats for the car, now it's tubeless tyres for the bicycle and yesterday the suv had a nail in the tyre, does it ever stop?

 

I bought the bike 2nd hand with the tubeless conversion and saw a greenish rim tape when the wheel went completely flat. I see its Purgatory control tyres on. after the cycle shop pumped it up they checked and found no air leaks. should i just keep the pressure high and continue riding and is the purgatory tyre a actual tubeless tyre ? could the tyre not be seated properly because the rim is dirty?

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Thanks for the advice Myles, damn it's like 1 has to become an expert in all things rubber. Just the other day i spent all day researching tyres for my superbike, then it was run flats for the car, now it's tubeless tyres for the bicycle and yesterday the suv had a nail in the tyre, does it ever stop?

 

I bought the bike 2nd hand with the tubeless conversion and saw a greenish rim tape when the wheel went completely flat. I see its Purgatory control tyres on. after the cycle shop pumped it up they checked and found no air leaks. should i just keep the pressure high and continue riding and is the purgatory tyre a actual tubeless tyre ? could the tyre not be seated properly because the rim is dirty?

If it says Purgatory 2bliss control (or any other combination thereof) it is a tubeless tyre. It's just that the control casing is pretty lightweight, so you'll have to run the pressures higher than the GRID casing or, for example, a Snakeskin Schwalbe or Freeride casing Ibex. 

 

My guess is that it's the tubeless conversion itself that is at fault, coupled with (potentially) a bit of dirt in the bead seat area of the wheel or lip letting some air out and maybe too low a pressure level when you're riding it. For what it's worth I had to run my WTB Wolverines (also full tubeless, also flimsy sidewalls) north of 30PSI to prevent burping on my 18mm wide rims back in the day. 

 

When does it deflate - just sitting around, or while you ride?

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Oh - do you have sealant in the tyre? If not, that would be your first port of call. 

[EttienneCT]

there was sealant inside as it ran out all over my floor. think the tyre pressure was low. I'v had the Giant now for about a week. before the last 2 rides i had to pump it up, but the morning after the last ride the rear wheel was completely flat with the sealant running out on the floor.

 

yeah it is the 2 bliss.

 

when i spin the wheel it sounds like there is still sealant in. probably needs a top up.

[raptor-22]

Air is insidious .

 

If the Tyres were on the bike when you bought it chances are they are old and the casing is likely shot hence the leaks. Is there any wet spots in the tyre?

This would indicative of sealant leaks and areas where the has needed to be plugged by the sealant.

Best bet is to start with new Tyres. This provides a great excuse to reinstall the tubeless conversion kit and inspect the rim strip for cracks where the valve is joined to the strip. This is a popular point of failure for rim strips.

 

Which brings us back to the original "what tyre for..." Question.

 

Since you're not into out and out trail riding yet but have a nice forgiving bike maybe sling a Schwalbe Nobby Nick 2.4 snakeskin on the front and a Schwalbe racing Ralph snake skin 2.25 on the back

[EttienneCT]

how would the 2.4 in the front affect the climb, if i did replace the rear would the 2.25 be ok while running the current 2.3 in front as it isnt giving any hassles yet.

[Albatross]

Onza Ibex front and Cannis rear

 

If you want more aggresive you could put the Ibex on the rear and a Cittrus on the front

 

Best thing is you get them in 120 TPI so they are almost bombproof

 

 

Good Luck

or you could go for the 60 TPI

 

"C3 is Onza’s Cross Country Casing with 60TPI - sturdier, thicker sidewalls for a little more puncture resistance vs. the thinner and lighter 120TPI."

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

how would the 2.4 in the front affect the climb, if i did replace the rear would the 2.25 be ok while running the current 2.3 in front as it isnt giving any hassles yet.

Short answer - it won't.