Post your woodwork here

[Slowbee]

the problem I have with the off the shelf table saws is getting the rip fence and the blade to run in parallel.

 

The clamp systems on the fence usually result in the guide pulling skew and hence everything lands up being fubar. Especially those with clamps that only clamp on one side.

 

I even argues with the marlet rep - till I asked him to use a square. Ja, then he used the one in one hundred thing.

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

the problem I have with the off the shelf table saws is getting the rip fence and the blade to run in parallel.

 

The clamp systems on the fence usually result in the guide pulling skew and hence everything lands up being fubar. Especially those with clamps that only clamp on one side.

 

I even argues with the marlet rep - till I asked him to use a square. Ja, then he used the one in one hundred thing.

On mine (crappy 254mm ryobi POS) I hold the far side in place, pre-tension it, line it up again by tapping left (it pulls right when clamping) and then clamp a little more and a little more and a little more until it's tight enough and running parallel. Bitch to set up properly, but it works. Most times. 

 

Need a new blade for it but it's like putting lipstick on a pig. 

[dev null]

I have a Geetech saw (through CMC), and I am quite happy with mine. Has a very nice fence that clamps both sides. Only have 1.5HP motor though. Wish I could upgrade the motor to 3HP.

 

Looks like this:

 

https://www.ridgidforum.com/filedata/fetch?id=615324

 

but white.

[Pants Boy]

the problem I have with the off the shelf table saws is getting the rip fence and the blade to run in parallel.

 

The clamp systems on the fence usually result in the guide pulling skew and hence everything lands up being fubar. Especially those with clamps that only clamp on one side.

 

I even argues with the marlet rep - till I asked him to use a square. Ja, then he used the one in one hundred thing.

Fortunately, I broke my fence's clamping system, so I'm doing (lengthy) setups and clamp-downs with a piece of Alu channel and g-clamps

 

On mine (crappy 254mm ryobi POS) I hold the far side in place, pre-tension it, line it up again by tapping left (it pulls right when clamping) and then clamp a little more and a little more and a little more until it's tight enough and running parallel. Bitch to set up properly, but it works. Most times. 

 

Need a new blade for it but it's like putting lipstick on a pig. 

Ryobi blades are notoriously hard to find, due to the size of the center hole. Chamberlains has original Ryobi blades in stock - do NOT buy the Tork Craft ones with the spacers, they will give you gray hair that will fall out in seconds. HORRID to try and set up straight.

[mon-goose]

I've got a question that is almost wood work related. Our kitchen drawer handles keep coming loose. They are handles that we've collected over time. I don't know the technical name by the little rod is attached to the handle knob and goes through the wood. On the back are two little nuts that are supposed to lock against each other. But I think the nuts may not be the right size and they don't lock. After just one or two pulls they are loose. Is there anyway I can fasten them in place so they don't move at all? 

 

I have heard there may be a lock tight type glue that could be used.

 

Any suggestions?

[Pants Boy]

I have a Geetech saw (through CMC), and I am quite happy with mine. Has a very nice fence that clamps both sides. Only have 1.5HP motor though. Wish I could upgrade the motor to 3HP.

 

Looks like this:

 

https://www.ridgidforum.com/filedata/fetch?id=615324

 

but white.

On my wishlist ... I've got a lot of 'hobby' grade machines that I'm slowly upgrading. First need a bigger belt/disk sander, then a proper pedestal drill, then possibly a better table saw.

[Pants Boy]

I've got a question that is almost wood work related. Our kitchen drawer handles keep coming loose. They are handles that we've collected over time. I don't know the technical name by the little rod is attached to the handle knob and goes through the wood. On the back are two little nuts that are supposed to lock against each other. But I think the nuts may not be the right size and they don't lock. After just one or two pulls they are loose. Is there anyway I can fasten them in place so they don't move at all? 

 

I have heard there may be a lock tight type glue that could be used.

 

Any suggestions?

Go to a bolt and nut shop and get Locknuts (Nylock) in the right size. One per bolt (little rod) and you'd be waxed.

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Fortunately, I broke my fence's clamping system, so I'm doing (lengthy) setups and clamp-downs with a piece of Alu channel and g-clamps

 

Ryobi blades are notoriously hard to find, due to the size of the center hole. Chamberlains has original Ryobi blades in stock - do NOT buy the Tork Craft ones with the spacers, they will give you gray hair that will fall out in seconds. HORRID to try and set up straight.

FFS. That explains SO much. Went with an aftermarket TorkCraft a looong time ago, I think, and it's not a good fit at all. Seems to have developed a wobble, even though the bolts are MOER tight. Checked it the other day when it just wouldn't cut properly, and there was about .25mm free movement. Which explained the horrible sound it was making whilst sawing cos the blade was vibrating. Turned it off and put it away as fast as possible. 

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Go to a bolt and nut shop and get Locknuts (Nylock) in the right size. One per bolt (little rod) and you'd be waxed.

They're these jobbies...

 

http://3.imimg.com/data3/LN/HH/MY-1045886/nylock-nut-250x250.jpg

[Ed-Zulu]

I had a Ryobi bandsaw...

 

I now consider myself a Master bandsaw setter-upper, my services are used up and down the street ...I still celebrate the day I could afford NOT-Ryobi

[Ed-Zulu]

Come to think of it; Ryobi and Avid probably employed form the same school

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Come to think of it; Ryobi and Avid probably employed form the same school

Nah. Avid at least work. They squealed when you used the wrong rotors, but they worked. 

 

Unles syou did a hack-job of the bleeding. 

[Pants Boy]

FFS. That explains SO much. Went with an aftermarket TorkCraft a looong time ago, I think, and it's not a good fit at all. Seems to have developed a wobble, even though the bolts are MOER tight. Checked it the other day when it just wouldn't cut properly, and there was about .25mm free movement. Which explained the horrible sound it was making whilst sawing cos the blade was vibrating. Turned it off and put it away as fast as possible. 

 

Let me know if you're unable to find one down there, I've got a mate at Chamberlains that can get stuff from their stores very quickly

[Bobbo_SA]

Also have 2 Ryobi table saws, fully agree that the fences are total Cr@p, clamping system is a joke.

 

Normally end up g-clamping a suitably straight material to the table instead of the fence. 

 

I've been tempted to make a new fence system for it, plenty of nice DIY options around, just have never gotten round to it, yet.

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Let me know if you're unable to find one down there, I've got a mate at Chamberlains that can get stuff from their stores very quickly

Yes please... 254mm combination blade, if you can. Just let me know how much. 

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Also have 2 Ryobi table saws, fully agree that the fences are total Cr@p, clamping system is a joke.

 

Normally end up g-clamping a suitably straight material to the table instead of the fence. 

 

I've been tempted to make a new fence system for it, plenty of nice DIY options around, just have never gotten round to it, yet.

I've also been tempted to remove the shitty legs and mount it on a trolley or table, and extend the table. If the blade sorts out the issues I'm having with it, then I'll do that. Also - agreed on the fence. Shitty design and shitty implementation.