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Posted

Yah, I hear you mate, it sounds a lot and it is a lot, but on the other hand (and I know dont need to tell you :) ) the cost of these manufacturer specific diagnostics is immense, plus the training for the technician, the hour labour etc, etc. I am out of touch with local SA dealer hourly rates but I would guess its at least around 600 bucks an hour.?? Probably more.

 

As an aside the genuine Audi's diagnostic system is second to none in my opinion, I have always had Audi's, I am a big fan of them, and as an example,... remember the old Audi tiptronic system?....... how it often started to get sluggish on older cars,... to sort it out Audi would have to clean the memory and refresh the controller system, this was a Audi specific scan and correct, there is no alternative to this, I used to know a few guys in Audi and a genuine Audi diagnostic scanner and programme was very expensive, then you needed to send the technician for training and then update the programme all the time for upgrades, new models etc, and, Yup you guessed...  :D   Audi doesn't supply upgrades for free.   

 

But,... I am sure they found the issue Grebel, or what did they say....?

 

 

I'll put my money on stuck EGR valve which in turn damaged MAF sensor

Nope

 

More expensive

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Posted

Would you believe it if a mechanic tells you is is the camshaft? Well he'd be correct. The BLS engine does not run on common rail technology. It has in fact a little high pressure pump running off the camshaft for each injector. When there is no lift from the cam, there is no pressure for the injector. in my case two lobes on the cam was warn down to the extent that no pressure was available for the injectors and the ECU compensated with the remaining two with over fueling. Over fueling leads to black smoke. Running on just two pistons is both rough and weak.

VW and Bosh agents said its injectors. Engine diagnostics didn't reveal anything. Injector tests just revealed the condition of the injectors and that they are in fact set lean. 3rd party diagnostics...nothing. I took the experience of an old ballie to open up and illustrate. Confirmed the camshaft was kaput.

Posted

Would you believe it if a mechanic tells you is is the camshaft? Well he'd be correct. The BLS engine does not run on common rail technology. It has in fact a little high pressure pump running off the camshaft for each injector. When there is no lift from the cam, there is no pressure for the injector. in my case two lobes on the cam was warn down to the extent that no pressure was available for the injectors and the ECU compensated with the remaining two with over fueling. Over fueling leads to black smoke. Running on just two pistons is both rough and weak.

VW and Bosh agents said its injectors. Engine diagnostics didn't reveal anything. Injector tests just revealed the condition of the injectors and that they are in fact set lean. 3rd party diagnostics...nothing. I took the experience of an old ballie to open up and illustrate. Confirmed the camshaft was kaput.

Quality diagnostician there; there's often no substitute for experience.

Posted

Mate of mine had a costly incident last week, there was a whine and his 1st and 3rd gear started jumping out. Took it in and it turns out there was almost no gearbox oil in, his cars is still on  service plan, last service 3 months ago, so how is it the mechanics failed to do this. Its not like he can jack his vehicle up and check it like you do for engine and clutch. 

Posted

Mate of mine had a costly incident last week, there was a whine and his 1st and 3rd gear started jumping out. Took it in and it turns out there was almost no gearbox oil in, his cars is still on  service plan, last service 3 months ago, so how is it the mechanics failed to do this. Its not like he can jack his vehicle up and check it like you do for engine and clutch. 

A manual box (I am assuming its a manual) is a sealed unit Scotty and losing 2/3 rds of the oil means only one of two things, it was drained for some reason, not filled correctly and no one checked, or it developed a leak between the time it was serviced and the time it failed. However a leak like that would almost certainly have left a neat puddle of oil under his car on the garage floor which is very hard to miss, so that seems unlikely.

 

But certainly, you are correct, the oil level in a manual box is not a weekly check item, and he would have been none the wiser if the box was not correctly filled,..... until it failed!.

 

Did the manufacturer cover the repairs Scotty seen as it was serviced by their agents.? 

Posted (edited)

Quality diagnostician there; there's often no substitute for experience.

Indeed, I only saw the post now, I think also maybe sometimes we rely too much on technology, good case in point I guess,... as the vehicle agents I am almost certain they would have seen this issue before, it wouldn't be the first, but because the technician it seemed just followed the scan path instead of thinking a bit more about it shows just how reliant we have become on the technological side of time and issue management.    

Edited by GrumpyOldGuy
Posted

I had a 2012 Mitsubishi Triton which had rear drum brakes. While still under warranty, I took the vehicle to Simon Lucas Mitsubishi, which fitted - get this - PIRATE PARTS to replace the seized up drums (from sea water/boat launching). I discovered that because the bolts worked themselves out of the Chinese cheapie hubs, meaning the rear wheels wanted to fall off. How bad is that!

The dealership said 'oh we use pirate parts to keep your cost down'. I said 'on a f$^((*N*= vehicle under warranty!!!' and also, called another dealership to price check. Uh, same price for OEM spares. I was SHOCKED, I tell you SHOCKED.

Anyway, Mitsubishi NZ couldn't give a stuff and while the dealership put OEM on 'at no additional cost' (as if they were doing me a favour) I sold the car immediately and will never own another Mitsubishi again.

 

And then, there is the shame of having had a Triton in the first place, which I just can't seem to shake off... :P

Thats really disgraceful workmanship by an agent and would be totally against the manufacturers policy, although the fact they didn't care is a bit worrying too.

 

We used to do a lot of recondition work for plant equipment, big diesel engines like for eg Caterpillar etc and our customers (usually the mining houses) always demanded only genuine spares be used, it was written into their tender specs and this extended even to minor service items like air cleaners, even though you could for example get a Baldwin equivalent at a fraction of the cost they would not accept it, if something happened and someone got killed or injured because of a non genuine part been fitted they were in serious trouble and they would never risk it, and neither would we, especially on the heavy lifting machinery, it was spec, spec, spec, using untested and unapproved parts would have gotton you kicked off the maintenance panel in a heartbeat.

Posted

Thats really disgraceful workmanship by an agent and would be totally against the manufacturers policy, although the fact they didn't care is a bit worrying too.

 

We used to do a lot of recondition work for plant equipment, big diesel engines like for eg Caterpillar etc and our customers (usually the mining houses) always demanded only genuine spares be used, it was written into their tender specs and this extended even to minor service items like air cleaners, even though you could for example get a Baldwin equivalent at a fraction of the cost they would not accept it, if something happened and someone got killed or injured because of a non genuine part been fitted they were in serious trouble and they would never risk it, and neither would we, especially on the heavy lifting machinery, it was spec, spec, spec, using untested and unapproved parts would have gotton you kicked off the maintenance panel in a heartbeat.

Initially, I thought, well, the dealer's gone rogue (being that this was a brand new vehicle, I specifically took it to dealers for service to preserve the 15 year warranty...and because I have always believed in getting genuine parts anyway).

But when Mitsi NZ were like 'oh that's too bad, take it up with the dealer' I decided, screw that, I'm getting rid of the car. Because, as I told Mitsi NZ, how do I know that all the other parts they used aren't also pirate rubbish? I mean, the brake drums/hubs were of such poor quality that the bolts couldn't stay in the threads. AND they had charged OEM price for the junk parts, while yet claiming that they used junk parts 'to lower the cost to the customer' (without telling the customer...yeah, pull the other one). 

They said, 'go back to the dealer and they will sort it out.'

Cost me ten grand plus to change cars; expensive school fees, but I'm not driving around in a vehicle I can't trust.

Posted

Initially, I thought, well, the dealer's gone rogue (being that this was a brand new vehicle, I specifically took it to dealers for service to preserve the 15 year warranty...and because I have always believed in getting genuine parts anyway).

But when Mitsi NZ were like 'oh that's too bad, take it up with the dealer' I decided, screw that, I'm getting rid of the car. Because, as I told Mitsi NZ, how do I know that all the other parts they used aren't also pirate rubbish? I mean, the brake drums/hubs were of such poor quality that the bolts couldn't stay in the threads. AND they had charged OEM price for the junk parts, while yet claiming that they used junk parts 'to lower the cost to the customer' (without telling the customer...yeah, pull the other one). 

They said, 'go back to the dealer and they will sort it out.'

Cost me ten grand plus to change cars; expensive school fees, but I'm not driving around in a vehicle I can't trust.

Indeed, today more than ever in my opinion your car needs to be maintained in a reliable and safe condition, the traffic, road conditions and litigious nature of society today kinda demands it. 

Posted

A manual box (I am assuming its a manual) is a sealed unit Scotty and losing 2/3 rds of the oil means only one of two things, it was drained for some reason, not filled correctly and no one checked, or it developed a leak between the time it was serviced and the time it failed. However a leak like that would almost certainly have left a neat puddle of oil under his car on the garage floor which is very hard to miss, so that seems unlikely.

 

But certainly, you are correct, the oil level in a manual box is not a weekly check item, and he would have been none the wiser if the box was not correctly filled,..... until it failed!.

 

Did the manufacturer cover the repairs Scotty seen as it was serviced by their agents.? 

He said he noticed nothing unusual until it started to play up, he was going to see them but haven't chatted to him to find out what the workshop manger says. 

Posted

Quick question... Anyone had any experience (good or bad) with Probe batteries?

 

My Land Rover needs a new battery and I'm struggling to find anyone with stock.  I eventually found one battery place that has stock, but the battery is called Probe. I've never heard of them before...  It's a sealed battery with a 2 year warranty.

 

Don't want to fork out a lot of money and end up feeling like I got probed when it gives problems... :blink:  :lol:

Posted

Quick question... Anyone had any experience (good or bad) with Probe batteries?

 

My Land Rover needs a new battery and I'm struggling to find anyone with stock.  I eventually found one battery place that has stock, but the battery is called Probe. I've never heard of them before...  It's a sealed battery with a 2 year warranty.

 

Don't want to fork out a lot of money and end up feeling like I got probed when it gives problems... :blink:  :lol:

Which Land Rover model? If it's a D3 or D4 don't expect much more than three years out of the battery anyway. However in just about 11 years of D3/D4 ownership I've only had three batteries.

 

One was a Sabat which lasted the fewest number of years (2).

 

As long as it's the correct rating it'll probably be fine.

Posted

Which Land Rover model? If it's a D3 or D4 don't expect much more than three years out of the battery anyway. However in just about 11 years of D3/D4 ownership I've only had three batteries.

 

One was a Sabat which lasted the fewest number of years (2).

 

As long as it's the correct rating it'll probably be fine.

It's a D2...  Battery must be at least 4 years old, was in the car when I got it, but I stupidly didn't check the battery water levels and it hasn't been happy since...

Posted

Initially, I thought, well, the dealer's gone rogue (being that this was a brand new vehicle, I specifically took it to dealers for service to preserve the 15 year warranty...and because I have always believed in getting genuine parts anyway).

But when Mitsi NZ were like 'oh that's too bad, take it up with the dealer' I decided, screw that, I'm getting rid of the car. Because, as I told Mitsi NZ, how do I know that all the other parts they used aren't also pirate rubbish? I mean, the brake drums/hubs were of such poor quality that the bolts couldn't stay in the threads. AND they had charged OEM price for the junk parts, while yet claiming that they used junk parts 'to lower the cost to the customer' (without telling the customer...yeah, pull the other one). 

They said, 'go back to the dealer and they will sort it out.'

Cost me ten grand plus to change cars; expensive school fees, but I'm not driving around in a vehicle I can't trust.

15 year warranty :eek:

 

Seriously?

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