Drilling Frame for Stealth Routing

[AlanD]

Hubbers,

 

I am wondering if drilling my frame for stealth routing my giant dropper post is a good idea or not. Warranty is not an issue as the bike is really old. Reason for this is that i have to replace the cable now as there was a kink at the top by the seat and the cable was not running nicly down and kept bending at the top instead of running straight down and this has caused the housing now to break by the seatpost.

 

There are 3 options i can see here:

 

1) Drill the hole as per picture and piggyback on the brake cable or

2) Drill the hole as per picture at the back and run it under the bike and run under the bottom tube. Only issue is that there is only an option to run a bare cable (no housing) so not sure if this will add dirt tonthe cable causing issues.

3) Dont even bother and keep as is.

 

Your thoughts are welcomed :-)

[AlanD]

This is what has happened :

[shaper]

discussed here, should give you all the info you need https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/156169-drilling-frame-for-reverb-stealth/?hl=frame%20drill

[CAAD4]

Cool idea. You go first....

[NukeproofPeanut]

Option 4:

• Use option 2, but drill/file that holder open and run the housing through it.

[AlanD]

discussed here, should give you all the info you need https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/156169-drilling-frame-for-reverb-stealth/?hl=frame%20drill

Have a had a read through this thread. It seems there is no structural affect of a small hole right?

[openmind]

Have a had a read through this thread. It seems there is no structural affect of a small hole right?

It all depends where you drill it

 

I would drill under the BB - the BB shell in an alu frame is usually quite meaty. Make the hole a little bigger than you need and you'll have a water drain at the same time. You should have no trouble routing some cable casing around the bb cartridge itself (inside the shell). 

 

I would not drill the seat tube anywhere near the suspension pivots - you never know what the stresses in those areas look like.

[NukeproofPeanut]

It all depends where you drill it

 

I would drill under the BB - the BB shell in an alu frame is usually quite meaty. Make the hole a little bigger than you need and you'll have a water drain at the same time. You should have no trouble routing some cable casing around the bb cartridge itself (inside the shell). 

 

I would not drill the seat tube anywhere near the suspension pivots - you never know what the stresses in those areas look like.

 

I wouldn't want the axle continuously rubbing the hose in the BB..

The only issue I see with a hole in the back of the seat tube, would be water and mud getting in from the back wheel..

[Guest notmyname]

The bike has flames and a Monster sticker... what could possibly go wrong?

[dirtypot]

I wouldn't want the axle continuously rubbing the hose in the BB..

The only issue I see with a hole in the back of the seat tube, would be water and mud getting in from the back wheel..

 

The BB has a plastic sleeve that goes on the inside between the two sides - the crank itself runs inside this, so there would be no constant rubbing as it's protected.  

 

You can also easily drill out the tabs (as mentioned above) to run the housing through the mounts that you currently have.

 

Why not make a hole near the top front end of the frame and have a full internal system?

[NukeproofPeanut]

Ah you are correct forgot about that! (Assuming OP uses the sleeve)

It may not be a bad idea to run it fully internal then like you say. 

 

The BB has a plastic sleeve that goes on the inside between the two sides - the crank itself runs inside this, so there would be no constant rubbing as it's protected.  

 

You can also easily drill out the tabs (as mentioned above) to run the housing through the mounts that you currently have.

 

Why not make a hole near the top front end of the frame and have a full internal system?

[AlanD]

Decided to drill at the back of the seatpost as its the only thing causing me grief and left the other cables externally.

 

Routed the old cable to show you how it came out but will post some pics when i have my new cable and housing and everything back together properly.

 

Just hoping there will not be a catastrophic frame failure...slightly worried about that.

 

Question: how do i route the 2016 giant dropper internally? Cant seem to find anything on google

[AlanD]

There you have it folks, DIY stealth dropper post routing. Came out pretty good i think.

 

True test will be on the trail to see that all holds together whe hurtling myself down the mountain.

[DJR]

I don't know about Joburg, but in Slaapstad you can buy all manner of rubber grommets and stuff from Rubber Products and Mouldings in Voortrekker Road, Maitland. There is bound to be one you can use for the hole, which will prevent the cable outer from rubbing and make it water resistant at the same time.

[AlanD]

I don't know about Joburg, but in Slaapstad you can buy all manner of rubber grommets and stuff from Rubber Products and Mouldings in Voortrekker Road, Maitland. There is bound to be one you can use for the hole, which will prevent the cable outer from rubbing and make it water resistant at the same time.

I am sure there is something. Will google it and see what i can find as tape is not the best option but will do for now.

[Jacoo]

Gonna pick up this thread.. I have a 2013 anthem X, and ive been tempted to drill it for stealth routing. Dont do any serious stuff on the bike like big drops, and im at 80kg. Cant imagine it would stress the frame too much.. I would like to run the dropper cable all the way through the frame and passed the press fit bb, but im not sure of 2 things. Firstly, are the tubes (seat tube and bottom tube) even open on the inside? Like do they connect? And secondly, will there be space for the cable passed the pfbb? Because if that would work i only have to drill one hole near the headset for the cable. Does anyone have any idea what the inside of the frame is like on an alu anthem?