Narrow Q-Factor / chainstay clearance issues

[nolipoli]

I am running an XT 2x10 (M785?) crank set and it leaves only about 3-4mm of clearance to my RHS chainstay, which decreases to nothing under hard torque on steep little climbs.

 

Does anyone out there in Hubland know if there is another crank that will fit the same BB but give more room? I am looking for an extra 10mm in total if possible.

[Pulse]

Try these... Pedal arm extenders

 

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTk9bb55XEn3in0tQeeayKJIqZ1KeaBvzFl49dW0_wxV1yOzhbtTg

[Kom]

Try these... Pedal arm extenders

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTk9bb55XEn3in0tQeeayKJIqZ1KeaBvzFl49dW0_wxV1yOzhbtTg

I don't think it's heel clearance he is talking about, but that the crank arm itself is making contact with the drive side stay under hard peddling.

 

Crank sets like the SRAM xx1 come with differing qfactors for that purpose, I use q168 on my Sworks which has a 142+ rear axle.

[nolipoli]

I don't think it's heel clearance he is talking about, but that the crank arm itself is making contact with the drive side stay under hard peddling.

 

Crank sets like the SRAM xx1 come with differing qfactors for that purpose, I use q168 on my Sworks which has a 142+ rear axle.

Yep, that's my problem right there. I think I am going to have to file off the corner of the crank to get an extra 2mm or so. Hopefully that will be just enough.

[V12man]

I am running an XT 2x10 (M785?) crank set and it leaves only about 3-4mm of clearance to my RHS chainstay, which decreases to nothing under hard torque on steep little climbs.

 

Does anyone out there in Hubland know if there is another crank that will fit the same BB but give more room? I am looking for an extra 10mm in total if possible.

You might want to check that frame - seems like too much flex to me.

 

Is it not possible to shift the crank out a bit using extra BB spacers?

[Kom]

You might want to check that frame - seems like too much flex to me.

Is it not possible to shift the crank out a bit using extra BB spacers?

The crank arms already sit at the edge of the crank axle, not sure even if spacers are an option.

[V12man]

The crank arms already sit at the edge of the crank axle, not sure even if spacers are an option.

This is true but I have seen spacers installed on the incorrect side of the crank- they are pretty thin on shimano cranks from memory - but it might be just enough.

[V12man]

The crank arms already sit at the edge of the crank axle, not sure even if spacers are an option.

This is true but I have seen spacers installed on the incorrect side of the crank- they are pretty thin on shimano cranks from memory - but it might be just enough.

[JXV]

Yep, that's my problem right there. I think I am going to have to file off the corner of the crank to get an extra 2mm or so. Hopefully that will be just enough.

Are your cranks fouling the chainstays on both sides? If not then shifting any BB spacer/s to the other side of BB may assist.

 

 

 

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

[bikebloke]

agree with above

 

my 1x10 has a tricky chain line ALL the spacers on the drive side of BB ..no problem !

 

just one spacer moved on to the other side ...no chance !

 

a file seems llike the wrong solution

[Paul Ruinaard]

Try these... Pedal arm extenders

 

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTk9bb55XEn3in0tQeeayKJIqZ1KeaBvzFl49dW0_wxV1yOzhbtTg

where do you get them extenders. Will solve one of my problems....

[JXV]

Q factor on all the XT and SLX cranks (both 10 and 11 spd ) is 175 - 176 mm. XTR a little narrower on average. Zee and Saint are available wider but these are gravity cranks designed for a wider BB as far as I know.

 

Raceface cranks are available with a range of bb, spider and Q factor options. Have a look on their website.

 

What bike frame is causing the trouble?

 

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

[nolipoli]

Thanks for all the replies. It's my home built bike - all steel construction makes it a little more flexy than an Aluminium frame.

I was a bit limited in my choice of chainstay material so clearance ended up tight. Spacers won't work because of chainline issues that will be created.

 

A file really seems to be the only real option, other than changing q-factor or possibly going shorter.

[JXV]

Thanks for all the replies. It's my home built bike - all steel construction makes it a little more flexy than an Aluminium frame.

I was a bit limited in my choice of chainstay material so clearance ended up tight. Spacers won't work because of chainline issues that will be created.

 

A file really seems to be the only real option, other than changing q-factor or possibly going shorter.

Could you bend a kink (sort of waveform) into those chainstays?

Would a stiffer rear axle setup help, e.g. 12x142? Dunno what you already have there but you could cut and weld a different dropout in if you have to. 12x142 has same hub, disc and cassette spacing as 10x135 and 9x135QR...just different ends

If you move the chainline out wide with bb spacers then can bring it back in with chainring spacers provided your chainring bolts to the inside of spider as on most 1x10 and 2x10 cranks.

 

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk