JXV Posted February 7, 2017 Share Eish, I will have to go check.. long and short, I have two sets of wheelsets, the one has got slicks on and the other knobbies. So I got a set of SHIMANO SM-RT66 (160 & 180). Only using the slicks for road races. The brakeset I have Shimano M395 hydraulic disc.RT 66 is a normal standard 6 bolt disc rotor....1 piece steel. Better than many of the lightweight rotors out there that have more holes than steel in the braking surface. BR 395 is an entry level brake caliper. It will benefit from the RT 66 rotor and from larger diameter if you need more stopping power. Normally it is fitted with a lower spec rotor. It can't take metal or ice-tec pads though....they won't fit....only the resin B01S pad. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JXV Posted February 7, 2017 Share Perhaps I'm the only one to have a negative view of Ice-Techs and specifically the 203mm diameter version ( my 180 is absolutely perfect) these are on the front of my Stumpjumper. They're as noisy as hell when hot but without any loss in braking power and the noise continues even after I release the brake until the disc cools, this in a couple of seconds. I have replaced them with an Alligator 203mm ( at a third of the price) and the noise is gone without a difference in braking power. The Alligator is a solid disc as in single piece while the Ice-Tech is a two piece design. I am guessing that the 203mm version is prone to bit of temporary warping when hot. I weigh 95kg and like the downhills so the braking tends to be quite harsh when it happens. However, my riding partner weighs in at 105kg doesn't like the downhills that much and he has the same problem that was also solved with an Alligator 203mm. I suspect that you'll be absolutely fine with a 180 though as I have had no issues with mine albeit at the back.I find the 203 ice tec stiffer and less prone to warping than all others I have tried. Also quieter. Are you using metal or resin pads? Normally noise means the system is oscillating under load. This can be misaligned pads/rotors or flexing under load. Check the following- thru-axle properly tightened- wheel bearings not worn- disc bolts are correctly torqued and have thread-lock on them- pads are correctly aligned radially so the pad doesn't ride above or below the braking surface- pad surface exactly parallel with disc surface If the Aligators are working for you then enjoy... Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeoKnight Posted February 7, 2017 Share RT 66 is a normal standard 6 bolt disc rotor....1 piece steel. Better than many of the lightweight rotors out there that have more holes than steel in the braking surface. BR 395 is an entry level brake caliper. It will benefit from the RT 66 rotor and from larger diameter if you need more stopping power. Normally it is fitted with a lower spec rotor. It can't take metal or ice-tec pads though....they won't fit....only the resin B01S pad. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk Make sense, so basically if I wanted to try the ice-tech upgrade I should have transferred my current rotors from my DS (that has SLX brakes) to the HT wheelset, and tada a reason to upgrade. Of well think that the wives bike might be needing new discs soon EDIT: het bike has a centre lock rotors and not the 6 bolts (the reason for the difference, the HT is QR and DS is Thru Axle) Shucks Edited February 7, 2017 by LeoKnight JXV 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr lee Posted February 10, 2017 Share 90kg in cycling kit with hydration pack. Riding a 29er. I like 1 finger brakes. All these factors together led to the big disc setup. On my old 26er and a few kilos lighter back then, 180 / 160 combo was adequate. 2 fingers sometimes. The bigger wheels make a difference that you can feel.... Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk As per a previous post I started referring to upgrading of braking performance, I went from 180/160 to 180/180 as I was around 125kg's late last year and did not have much confidence in my brake setup. The upgrade did help but there are still times when I loose that confidence again...even though it may only be for a few seconds on a single section of a complete 40-60KM ride! I have since lost some of my spare tire and am down to about 121kg's. In the future I would like to upgrade my bikes entire groupset to XT M8000 including the 180mm RT81 CL ice-tech rotors at both ends but I am now in two minds and think I should be looking at the 203/180 setup If I do go that way and the 203 makes a horrible squeaky noise then I know I will regret it cause I absolutely hate a noisy bike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
River Rat Posted February 10, 2017 Share I find the 203 ice tec stiffer and less prone to warping than all others I have tried. Also quieter. Are you using metal or resin pads? Normally noise means the system is oscillating under load. This can be misaligned pads/rotors or flexing under load. Check the following- thru-axle properly tightened- wheel bearings not worn- disc bolts are correctly torqued and have thread-lock on them- pads are correctly aligned radially so the pad doesn't ride above or below the braking surface- pad surface exactly parallel with disc surface If the Aligators are working for you then enjoy... Sent from my SM-G935F using TapatalkYip I can tick those boxes on both bikes in fact the problem started from the outset when the bikes were new. On reflection I don't seem to have the same issue when i use them on my spare set of wheels which are heavier Stan Flows so it might be the Ice Tech / Carbon wheel combination. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zorro5614 Posted December 24, 2018 Share Hi guys Reviving this old thread for some help. My RT66 (SLX) rotors are both warped. Looking at replacing the with some RT86 ice tech rotors (getting a good deal) Will I need to use other brake pads than come stock on the SLX M7000 brakes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALLMTB Posted December 24, 2018 Share Hi guys Reviving this old thread for some help. My RT66 (SLX) rotors are both warped. Looking at replacing the with some RT86 ice tech rotors (getting a good deal) Will I need to use other brake pads than come stock on the SLX M7000 brakes?You can use the same pads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Me rida my bicycle Posted December 24, 2018 Share I just went from rt 66 to rt 86 works great have the metal pads without the fins done 3 rides and all good. I had to change rotors as I changed wheels the rt66 worked great only on long technical rides would I get some fade can't really say if the rt86 will do the same only done 20-35km rides so far but they feel good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scubes Posted January 10, 2019 Share On my Trance I have 180mm ice tech rotor on the front which is awesome. Am thinking of ice tech for the rear brakes.. would it make much of a difference? Or not really Edited January 10, 2019 by scubes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trance Dance Posted January 10, 2019 Share On my Trance I have 180mm ice tech rotor on the front which is awesome. Am thinking of ice tech for the rear brakes.. would it make much of a difference? Or not reallyYes, big difference. You'll have to replace it sooner! After never having to replace a rotor before, I've replaced three XT icetech rotors in two years. Two front one rear. scubes 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usxorf Posted January 10, 2019 Share On my Trance I have 180mm ice tech rotor on the front which is awesome. Am thinking of ice tech for the rear brakes.. would it make much of a difference? Or not reallyIf you really want to feel a difference put the 180 on the back and get a 200 for the front. scubes 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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