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Raised stem


Mongoose001

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flip the stem around ? IF it is pointing down.

 

 

 

pitchas would help

it's a 90mm stem on a medium XC hardtail with a dude who is 1.69m tall having feelings of going over the bars... A short stem is guaranteed to fix the problem, or at least go 90% of the way to alleviating it... 

 

IMO

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it's a 90mm stem on a medium XC hardtail with a dude who is 1.69m tall having feelings of going over the bars... A short stem is guaranteed to fix the problem, or at least go 90% of the way to alleviating it...

 

IMO

A wider bar and shorter stem will even cause world peace.

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A wider bar and shorter stem will even cause world peace.

Ag nee donner dude ???? - coffee all over and another keyboard see it's backside ????

 

Sent from my LG-D958 using Tapatalk

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Ag nee donner dude [emoji50] - coffee all over and another keyboard see it's backside [emoji23]

 

Sent from my LG-D958 using Tapatalk

Ag sometimes we need humour in the dark days.

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It still has the stock SB handlebar yes. So now to get a 50-60mm stem and a wider handle bar. Barely have money for kit. Jurre....

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It still has the stock SB handlebar yes. So now to get a 50-60mm stem and a wider handle bar. Barely have money for kit. Jurre....

It never ends bro. You will never have money for drugs again.

But rest assured, there are always cheaper ways.

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i get the feeling im gonna fall over the front of the bike. 

You are riding a bike with a short head tube and race geometry.You will either get used to that feeling or have to get something more relaxed and longer travel.

 

A bike fit will help to an extent but you'll still get that falling feeling on steep drop ins.

 

I had the same issue when i started out on a mtb.I was on a Trek race bike.I got a shorter stem and wider bars that helped for a while.

 

In the end i fitted a 120mm fork to the bike and that was the best thing i ever did.

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In the end i fitted a 120mm fork to the bike and that was the best thing i ever did.

 

 

I cant agree with you more, but at what cost. 

 

Barely have money for kit. Jurre.... 

 

That says it all lol....

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Just checked classifieds for a 120mm shock, first one up is 10k5! :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:

What wheelsize are you running?

26 inch forks are going for bargains.

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Post a picture.

 

Those 26" hardtails had quite "aggressive" geometry by recent standards i.e. low front ends and steep head angles.  What fork does it have - 100mm or even 80mm?  A longer travel fork will help but it is a very expensive option and can leave it prone to "dive" in the technical downhills due to steep head angle, which is not what you want.  An angle adjust headset might be an option if you have a tapered headtube - these can be had for not that much now.  The frame should be rated for that though i.e. headtube is strong enough to cope with the extra forcces.

 

Higher rise shorter stem, wider riser bars will definately help and can be done for quite cheap - as others have said.

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So i got my bike about two weeks ago. Was in a rush so never really got a feel for it when i rode it. Anyway, i get the feeling im gonna fall over the front of the bike. Kinda like leaning to far forward. Seat is at the correct height, at least i find it comfortable at that height, but im leaning far forward. Frame size is medium, i think what i have on the bike is a 10 deg stem. Its the original silverback stem.

 

Would a raised or slightly higher angled stem aid with my leaning forward?

Go to the following website... https://www.competitivecyclist.com/Store/catalog/fitCalculatorBike.jsp

 

Watch the video if one of the measurements required isn't clearly explained on the site. Get someone to help you with the measurements, and do it 2-3 times, so you get consistent values. Enter the values, save it and email yourself a copy.

 

The results from the measurements will give you a few options, i.e. XC, All Mountain or Gravity. The dimensions for each option gives you lower/upper limits. You can then compare the measurements on your frame manufacturer's website to the values suggested on the webpage and check the actual settings on your bike.

 

Before you go for a bike setup, you can set your bike up to the median (or midpoint) value which is probably referred to as neutral. 9/10 times, the subsequent bike setup will be correct, with perhaps marginal changes required. What feels comfortable to you, might not be good for you in the long run - but as some has said, flexibility plays a big part too.

 

I've been for two bike setups, and the only change, first time setting up, was my handlebars (road). But then, a few people have said to me when I first start riding that my saddle seems a bit low.

 

My 2c worth.

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