M8000 2x11 to 1x11 help please

[lyslexic]

Hi

 

I've decided to switch my 2x11 to a 1x11 and have a few questions.

 

I know the BCD is 96 and am fetching a M8000 32T chainring later today.

 

 

The stuff that I am not 100% certain of.

 

 

 

Will my current xt rear derailleur work ? (Specs say that is a XT Shadow)

 

Will I need a chain guide on the front? (Getting a M8000 32T Chainring for the front)

 

If I need to shorten the chain, Am I correct in saying that i should put it onto the big cog on the rear, add 2 links and shorten there?

 

 

 

 

[dirtypot]

Will my current xt rear derailleur work ? (Specs say that is a XT Shadow)

Yes

 

Will I need a chain guide on the front? (Getting a M8000 32T Chainring for the front)

No, just make sure your clutch is on.

 

If I need to shorten the chain, Am I correct in saying that i should put it onto the big cog on the rear, add 2 links and shorten there?

If it needs to be shortened, then it's easier to put it into the lowest (smallest cog) gear and make sure that the chain isn't rubbing on itself/RD pulley wheel.  If it is take out links until it isn't.

[lyslexic]

 

Will my current xt rear derailleur work ? (Specs say that is a XT Shadow)

Yes

 

Will I need a chain guide on the front? (Getting a M8000 32T Chainring for the front)

No, just make sure your clutch is on.

 

If I need to shorten the chain, Am I correct in saying that i should put it onto the big cog on the rear, add 2 links and shorten there?

If it needs to be shortened, then it's easier to put it into the lowest (smallest cog) gear and make sure that the chain isn't rubbing on itself/RD pulley wheel.  If it is take out links until it isn't.

 

 

Thanks

[arendoog]

I went the same route .It will probably work fine without any major changes if you are using the same cassette .I am running a 34 x 11/46 and it works perfectly .If the chain is a problem , only then do something about it .I prefer the ratios of the sunrace casette  .I have never had a problem with clutch off ,but it helps with chain slap if you engage it 

Edited September 11, 2017 by Blitzer

[Wannabe]

http://forums.mtbr.com/attachments/drivetrain-shifters-derailleurs-cranks/908008d1405349674-1x11-chain-length-img_3038.jpg

[Wannabe]

http://forums.mtbr.com/attachments/drivetrain-shifters-derailleurs-cranks/908570d1405531152-1x11-chain-length-img_3040.jpg

[lyslexic]

Thanks for the help, It's done

 

Have a quick one regarding the cassette ratios. I'm on 11-40 at the moment and would like to switch to 11-46.

 

Which is the better option between the Sunrace 11-46 and XT 11-46?

 

I'm leaning towards the sunrace. 

[dirtypot]

Sunrace.  It has better ratios.  It's what I use and it's perfect.   The step on the Shimano is too big at the top.

[Mr lee]

Make sure your derailleur is the long cage(pulley cage) if going bigger than a 42 cassette! 

 

From what I understand the medium is alright up to 42...

[MintSauce]

 

 

 

If I need to shorten the chain, Am I correct in saying that i should put it onto the big cog on the rear, add 2 links and shorten there?

If it needs to be shortened, then it's easier to put it into the lowest (smallest cog) gear and make sure that the chain isn't rubbing on itself/RD pulley wheel.  If it is take out links until it isn't.

 

 

 

 

This isn't strictly correct, since the chain could be the correct length and still be touching the cassette or pulley wheels due to incorrect settings on the tension bolts.

[dirtypot]

This isn't strictly correct, since the chain could be the correct length and still be touching the cassette or pulley wheels due to incorrect settings on the tension bolts.

 

Tension bolts?  Not sure what you mean.  On a 1x system there is no need for the chain to be rubbing at all.  If it is then it's too long.  

[lyslexic]

Thanks 

 

i didn't shorten the chain and it seems fine so far.

 

I also didn't touch the clutch and also seems fine so far. 

 

It's the M8000 at the back and looks like it's long cage so think i'll be good.

[MintSauce]

Tension bolts?  Not sure what you mean.  On a 1x system there is no need for the chain to be rubbing at all.  If it is then it's too long.  

 

The B-Tension screw adjusts the distance between the top derailleur pulley and the cassette. It should be as close as possible but not touch.

Someone who does not know much about bike setup, might notice the massive overlap of the top pulley and largest cog (like I had when converting two bikes to 1x11 with 11-46 cassettes recently) and misunderstand your advice and shorten the chain when all that is needed is to adjust the screw.

 

Just trying to provide some clarity and avoid confusion and costly mistakes

[dirtypot]

The B-Tension screw adjusts the distance between the top derailleur pulley and the cassette. It should be as close as possible but not touch.

Someone who does not know much about bike setup, might notice the massive overlap of the top pulley and largest cog (like I had when converting two bikes to 1x11 with 11-46 cassettes recently) and misunderstand your advice and shorten the chain when all that is needed is to adjust the screw.

 

Just trying to provide some clarity and avoid confusion and costly mistakes

 

 

You're talking about rubbing when the chain is on the highest gear - that's an entirely different point.  

I'm simply talking about getting the chain length correct in the beginning by checking if it's touching the pulley wheels when the chain is at minimum tension.  If the chain is too short then the RD over extends backwards and allows the chain to rub.

To use Wannabe's earlier picture - look at where I've put the arrow, if it's rubbing there then the chain is too long.

[droo]

You're talking about rubbing when the chain is on the highest gear - that's an entirely different point.  

I'm simply talking about getting the chain length correct in the beginning by checking if it's touching the pulley wheels when the chain is at minimum tension.  If the chain is too short then the RD over extends backwards and allows the chain to rub.

To use Wannabe's earlier picture - look at where I've put the arrow, if it's rubbing there then the chain is too long.

 

Or the B tension screw is incorrectly adjusted, which is what MS is trying to point out. Get that wrong and you'll end up taking one too many links out of your chain...

[MintSauce]

You're talking about rubbing when the chain is on the highest gear - that's an entirely different point.  

I'm simply talking about getting the chain length correct in the beginning by checking if it's touching the pulley wheels when the chain is at minimum tension.  If the chain is too short then the RD over extends backwards and allows the chain to rub.

To use Wannabe's earlier picture - look at where I've put the arrow, if it's rubbing there then the chain is too long.

 

When a noob(not necessarily the OP) who knows nothing about bikes, reads something online, he might not be aware of the fact it's an entirely different point. I'm just adding some information from my experience to make said noob more informed about the process involved.