Tubeless leaking valve

[Coeta]

I have these swiss rims, take note about the shape where the valve need be seated to form a solid seal. Every time I struggle my ass off to get it to seal after I changed tyres and end up handing it to a LBS to assist,,this time I need this to be done by myself.

With the presta  valve in place do I need to use the curved loose insert to assist with the sealingt, as my rim is flat on the bottom inside and not curved like the other swiss rims it dont look if I need to use it.

 

I tried it with the curved insert and turned the lock nut too tight and damaged the valve already, i DONT want to destroy another valve,,,any tips on how to get this to seal properly.

[The Flying German]

I have struggled with this before myself especially seating old or Ghetto Tubeless.

 

I take a Bonded Washer/Roofing washer with the rubber bonded to it and put this under the nut and then tighten it so the bonded piece of washer is against the rim. If the rim has a profile that is not flat where the nut tightens down i bend the washer into  V shape and tighten it up under the nut so that it conforms to the profile of the rim.

 

This has worked a good couple of times for me its not the neatest but it does the trick especially if you need to get riding

 

Hope it Helps

[Karman de Lange]

Get old inner tube, cut valve out and fit that. Never had luck with "tubelless valves"

 

Something like this: 

 

 

[Coeta]

this was my second option,,,do I just put it in or do I need to glue it in or tape it down ,,how big must I cut it off

[David Marshall]

If you look through the valve hole from the inside of the rim you will see if the hole in the tape bed is slightly larger than the hole in the rim itself.  If this is the case use the cone shaped valves.

 

The secret is how tight to do the nut up.  I hold the wheel with the valve at 12 o'clock with the 6 o'clock part of the rim on a piece of wood.  Then I press the valve in (hard) with my thumb on the rubber and tighten nut by hand.

 

If you get air escaping around the valve after this the chances are that it is leaking along the tape somewhere and the air can only get out around the valve as the nipples form and airtight seal on the rim.  I see a lot of damaged rims where people have tried to stop this "leaking valve" by over tightening the nut.

 

If it is a new rim make sure that the hole where the valve seats is not burred.

[anybody seen george?]

this was my second option,,,do I just put it in or do I need to glue it in or tape it down ,,how big must I cut it off

I use a little bit of contact glue between it and the tape. But not much. Mostly around the hole made through the tape.

Edited November 16, 2017 by Mr.GT

[Ti-ny]

I use a little bit of contact glue between it and the tape. But not much. Mostly around the hole made through the tape.

Cut a small piece of old tube as a washer to seal the valve, put one on the inside and one on the outside of the rim,between the rim and the nut.

[Shebeen]

I had one this year which could not seal for love or money.

 

I swore at it

 

I redid all the tape, cleaned the thing like my canines.

I threw all the tricks, still leaking through the valve/nipples.

Tried 3 different valves.

 

I even took it to a bike shop, they blew sealant all over their workshop.

 

eventually i just went tubed. then got a flat,

 

tried one last time, swore at it a bit more

i don't know what the issue was.

so i can't help, but i can sympathise with the irritation of tubeless giving you grief!

and that was all it needed. still holding.

[Coeta]

I am going to try it once more with the tubeless valve but without the bullet piece of rubber, ...if it does not work then the cut out from an old tube...

then I will try it next week again, using rider#35 actions and lets hope it does work by then

[Pah Bear]

What David Marshall said. Problem generally lies with the rim sealer tape. It might be done properly, and then you slide the tire over (maybe using a tire lever or similar) and damage the tape or, you not careful enough and move the sealer tape. It just need one of the spoke nipples to be semi exposed and you have air leaking through the nipple, move around the inner rim and exit at the valve. So your "leaking valve" might not have anything to do with the (leaking valve). Hope that make sense.

[Coeta]

thanks for the tips guys,,I took a closer inspection on the rim tape,,,tape got pierced over 2 spoke holes probably when I removed the new tyre in my struggle to sort the leaking valve,,,

I am busy to remove the old tape and apply new tape and will see if it would seal then.

[Pah Bear]

It will seal. 

[porqui]

When you make the hole in the tape just make a small hole - preferably just cut a small cross in it with a very sharp hobby knife.

[Pah Bear]

Advice was to do first inflation without Stans so easier to resolve if a leak persist. But ... never tried this myself as after I learnt the lesson you just encountered, I'm ultra careful when seating a replacement tire and try to never use levers when I'm working at home. 

Edited November 18, 2017 by Pah Bear

[Pah Bear]

When you make the hole in the tape just make a small hole - preferably just cut a small cross in it with a very sharp hobby knife.

Personally, don't like that cross cut method. Prefer to punch a small hole so less chance of tape piercing further than rubber seal will seal. Have American Classics and their rubber valve seal ring is, well, ... not very big at all.

[Jewbacca]

Personally, don't like that cross cut method. Prefer to punch a small hole so less chance of tape piercing further than rubber seal will seal. Have American Classics and their rubber valve seal ring is, well, ... not very big at all.

I make a smalle hole with a pin and jiggle it around, then slowly insert the valve making sure the core is closed... it eases in and keeps the take tight.

 

Another common reason for slow leaks is a defect in the joint... it is an often overlooked issue.

 

Hope the OP manages to get it right though.