Extending Chainring Life

[MrJacques]

Saw this interesting video on how to extend chainring life. Basically you buy 3 new chains and use 1 for a set period of distance / time. Then you swap it with the 2nd one and use it for the same period and do the same with the 3rd. Then you go back to chain 1 and repeat the process. This way you don't wear out the chainring all at once, but more gradually. Maybe a bit expensive to start with, but could be worth it in the long run if it works, especially now that many bike only have 1 chainring.

 

Does anyone have any experience with this method or have any other tips to extend drivetrain life?

 

1.  

 

[popcorn_skollie]

Most non threaded narrow wides can just be flipped around. Assuming they are round and not oval. Most guys would recommend rotating chains anyways. Nothing wears out your rings or cassette faster than a stretched chain. 

[Schnavel]

Definitely worth changing chains - You should go through at least 3 chains before needing to change cassette and chainrings anyway (assuming you are looking after them).

 

It's important to keep the cassette, chain and chain ring clean - remove excess grease etc. and dirt build up. Ensure that the chain is lubricated.

 

Lastly, keep a very close eye on chain stretch - as mentioned by Popcorn above, a stretched chain will prematurely wear out your other components. 

 

I typically get around 45k - 50k km out of my road chainrings and around 30k km out of a road cassette, but that is typically with 5 - 6 chains (my rule of thumb is a new chain every 5000km, but I check it every month by measuring the amount of stretch).

[Pah Bear]

I use two chains on both road and MTB. One always remain properly cleaned and lubed. Clean cassette and chain properly during every change. Swap and redo after every 4/5 rides. Started doing this in last year, and changed bike so can't give you good long term stats yet. Work for me.

 

Will consider the 3 chain plan. 

[Skylark]

Saw this interesting video on how to extend chainring life. Basically you buy 3 new chains and use 1 for a set period of distance / time. Then you swap it with the 2nd one and use it for the same period and do the same with the 3rd. Then you go back to chain 1 and repeat the process. This way you don't wear out the chainring all at once, but more gradually. Maybe a bit expensive to start with, but could be worth it in the long run if it works, especially now that many bike only have 1 chainring.

 

Does anyone have any experience with this method or have any other tips to extend drivetrain life?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-lrzx6a2t6A

Basically what that achieves is even wear across the chains, so technically you are making sure all 3 chains wear at the same rate as the rest of the drive train and therefore all 3 can be used past the drive trains wear limit without slipping.

 

Hence you won't have the situation of changing 2 chains sequentially, changing them as they wear out/reach their wear limits and the 3rd new chain potentially slipping when fitted, due to the rest of the drive train being just past the theoretical wear limits. All that being relative to the conditions you ride in and how often you clean and lube your drivetrain.

[Cippo]

Best tool to buy is a chain checker. Replace chain when its more than 0.5% on 11spd and 0.75% on 10spd. I managed 7000km on a KMC SL 11spd chain before it was more than 0.5%.

[dasilvarsa]

I use two chains on both road and MTB. One always remain properly cleaned and lubed. Clean cassette and chain properly during every change. Swap and redo after every 4/5 rides. Started doing this in last year, and changed bike so can't give you good long term stats yet. Work for me.

 

Will consider the 3 chain plan. 

Do you always put the chain back in the same orientation that it came out ?  

[arendoog]

Best tool to buy is a chain checker. Replace chain when its more than 0.5% on 11spd and 0.75% on 10spd. I managed 7000km on a KMC SL 11spd chain before it was more than 0.5%.

Why the difference between 10 and 11 speed .Just curious ?

[Pah Bear]

Do you always put the chain back in the same orientation that it came out ?  

The KMC and Shimano chains I use are marked, so yes, always follow "logo outward" mounting.

[Mountain_Goat]

Best tool to buy is a chain checker. Replace chain when its more than 0.5% on 11spd and 0.75% on 10spd. I managed 7000km on a KMC SL 11spd chain before it was more than 0.5%.

Would also like to know why a 11spd chain has to be replaced at only 0.5% and a 10spd at 0.75%?

 

Im assuming it has to do with the width of the chains with the 11spd being thinner than the 10spd?

 

Currently I use the 3 chains to a cassette, and 3 cassettes to chainrings rule. I usually replace chains at 0.75 or earlier.

[dasilvarsa]

On a 11 speed chain the inner plates and outer plates are thinner than a 10 speed chain.

Also the connecting pins are shorter.

The Rollers are the same size.

They recommend changing it at 0.5 wear so that the likelihood of it snapping is reduced.

 

I ran a 11 speed chain on a 10 speed bike, It works but the up shifting is a bit slower.

Down Shifting is normal.

The chain line is better because the chain can flex +- 10 % more.