T-Bob Posted February 16, 2018 Posted February 16, 2018 New frame, new standards... and it's a boost one. So I have standard set up on my current frame but want to bring all my kit on my new frame. So issue I have is with the Wheels, cranks etc. Do I need to now change up everything? I'm guessing I can get away with just keeping my fork and from wheel as it's not an issue there but what is the deal with the crank and what options do I have for the rear wheel? New hub and wheel rebuild? Spacers and adaptors off the net? New wheel set (but then the front will be boost and my fork is standard... mix n match wheels)? Cheers big brains!
MarcBurger Posted February 16, 2018 Posted February 16, 2018 Also in the same boat to an extent.What hubs are you currently running? There are a few non-boost to boost adaptors out there that you just bolt on and re-dish your wheel a bit. As for the crank, the boost rear means your optimal chainline is off by 3mm. As far as I know that's the only difference? I'm not sure if regular cranks/chainring can be spaced to fix this, so I'm also waiting to hear more info on the topic.
Cat2forLife Posted February 16, 2018 Posted February 16, 2018 What is boost anyway?https://www.ipdusa.com/techtips/10079/understanding-turbo-boost
T-Bob Posted February 16, 2018 Author Posted February 16, 2018 Also in the same boat to an extent.What hubs are you currently running? There are a few non-boost to boost adaptors out there that you just bolt on and re-dish your wheel a bit. As for the crank, the boost rear means your optimal chainline is off by 3mm. As far as I know that's the only difference? I'm not sure if regular cranks/chainring can be spaced to fix this, so I'm also waiting to hear more info on the topic. I've got Oozy Trail 295's and currently can't find any adaptors from Spank themselves but found quite a few universal ones on Ebay. Seems most people make for King, Hope and DT Swiss. I was looking at a Novatech rear hub from Rapide @ R1200 or a Hope or a Nukeproof from CRC for about R1K as some people have said the spacer route can fail badly and destructo the axle etc. Also if I mix n match then resale is going to be limited if I go full boost. With the crank I was trying to see if the BB is wider and therefor the spindle on the crank to make that 3mm shift. Pain in the ass. I have no wish to get a fork, wheels and all that jazz. txt is one of the reasons I didn't get the new Transition Sentinal / Smuggler because I wasn't want ing to shell out for a new offset fox 36. I've got my Pike down with a Luffekappe and a Ramp control and it's running just how I want it.
Long Wheel Base Posted February 16, 2018 Posted February 16, 2018 What is boost anyway?https://www.ipdusa.com/techtips/10079/understanding-turbo-boost + 1. Your link I understand very well as I have worked and played on turbo engines plenty but on a MTB? Hidden motor?
Eddy Gordo Posted February 16, 2018 Posted February 16, 2018 New frame, new standards... and it's a boost one. So I have standard set up on my current frame but want to bring all my kit on my new frame. So issue I have is with the Wheels, cranks etc. Do I need to now change up everything? I'm guessing I can get away with just keeping my fork and from wheel as it's not an issue there but what is the deal with the crank and what options do I have for the rear wheel? New hub and wheel rebuild? Spacers and adaptors off the net? New wheel set (but then the front will be boost and my fork is standard... mix n match wheels)? Cheers big brains! You could keep your wheelshttps://www.mrpbike.com/better-boost-adapter-kits/https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/boostinator
Skinnyone Posted February 16, 2018 Posted February 16, 2018 I've got Oozy Trail 295's and currently can't find any adaptors from Spank themselves but found quite a few universal ones on Ebay. Seems most people make for King, Hope and DT Swiss. I was looking at a Novatech rear hub from Rapide @ R1200 or a Hope or a Nukeproof from CRC for about R1K as some people have said the spacer route can fail badly and destructo the axle etc. Also if I mix n match then resale is going to be limited if I go full boost. With the crank I was trying to see if the BB is wider and therefor the spindle on the crank to make that 3mm shift. Pain in the ass. I have no wish to get a fork, wheels and all that jazz. txt is one of the reasons I didn't get the new Transition Sentinal / Smuggler because I wasn't want ing to shell out for a new offset fox 36. I've got my Pike down with a Luffekappe and a Ramp control and it's running just how I want it. The BB width is exactly the same, only the chainring offset (where the ring sits in relation to the crank/frame) changes. Most cases (unless there is a major difference in headsets) you can use the fork and front wheel and either get the adapter kit or complete rear hub route. Personally the mis-match hubs would crack me - just a personal thing though.
Cat2forLife Posted February 16, 2018 Posted February 16, 2018 + 1. Your link I understand very well as I have worked and played on turbo engines plenty but on a MTB? Hidden motor? Hey, you said it
Schnavel Posted February 16, 2018 Posted February 16, 2018 OP, the main changes for boost involve the hub spacing as well as the chain line. As you mention, you can keep your current fork and front wheel (110mm boost spacing won't make any difference on the front). For the rear, you will either need to find an adaptor to covert your hub from a 142mm to 148mm spacing, or have the wheel rebuilt with a different hub. The second option will be expensive as you will need to purchase an additional hub, as well new spokes (hub flange diameters will more than likely be different). Lastly, pertaining the chain line, you will need to change your chain ring. What crank have you got? Most manufactures now make boost chainrings (3mm offset) and non-boost chainrings (6mm offset). You will need to buy a new chainring for a better chainline.
NotSoBigBen Posted February 16, 2018 Posted February 16, 2018 I can understand 'better' chainline but can't understand why it would not work with any other 'standard' crank/chainring? Especially if it's 1* .... Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L31 using Tapatalk
T-Bob Posted February 16, 2018 Author Posted February 16, 2018 You could keep your wheelshttps://www.mrpbike.com/better-boost-adapter-kits/https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/boostinator Have ben looking at those but they are only DT, Stans, Hope and Kings. Not Spanks. Grrr.
T-Bob Posted February 16, 2018 Author Posted February 16, 2018 For the rear, you will either need to find an adaptor to covert your hub from a 142mm to 148mm spacing, or have the wheel rebuilt with a different hub. The second option will be expensive as you will need to purchase an additional hub, as well new spokes (hub flange diameters will more than likely be different). Lastly, pertaining the chain line, you will need to change your chain ring. What crank have you got? Most manufactures now make boost chainrings (3mm offset) and non-boost chainrings (6mm offset). You will need to buy a new chainring for a better chainline. Seems a bit crazy, I'd prefer to just buy a new wheels set for the cost it'll be to add new hub etc but then I've got a front wheel with no use and if I'm getting new wheels then I want to go 30mm inners. Then I get stuck with different front of back or a new fork. I'm running the latest SLX cranks and standard ring up front (1x).
T-Bob Posted February 16, 2018 Author Posted February 16, 2018 These are available online and seems to be universal but... why are there then specific sets for specific hubs from MRP and Wolftooth then? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/For-Bike-MTB-Tools-Boost-Hub-Adapter-12mm-x-142mm-to-12mm-x-148mm-Boost-Frames-q/322895235839?hash=item4b2e0e4aff:m:m9h62gYSdvhIUTeAw2aauXA
Traveler Posted February 16, 2018 Posted February 16, 2018 If you are on an SLX crank, then you might just be ok with the chainring. If it was a DM Chainring, then you'd have to move to either 3mm or no offset; luckily that is likely a non issue. When you do install the crank, be careful and mask your frame with tape and ensure that your chainring does not touch the frame. With the extra flare required for the 148mm in some cases there has been people who have seriously gouged the frame with their chainrings. On smaller chainrings this is less of an issue. Rather get new hubs. I'd say go for the Novatec BOOST hub, Novatec hubs are durable and parts are easy to buy all over ZA. Nukeproof make awesome products, but their hubs are not particularly known for durability. Because of the flange of the BOOST concept you will likely need the spokes to be cut, or even replaced. Have a chat to Wayne at Rapide, he builds killer wheels which run very true.
T-Bob Posted February 16, 2018 Author Posted February 16, 2018 If you are on an SLX crank, then you might just be ok with the chainring. If it was a DM Chainring, then you'd have to move to either 3mm or no offset; luckily that is likely a non issue. When you do install the crank, be careful and mask your frame with tape and ensure that your chainring does not touch the frame. With the extra flare required for the 148mm in some cases there has been people who have seriously gouged the frame with their chainrings. On smaller chainrings this is less of an issue. Rather get new hubs. I'd say go for the Novatec BOOST hub, Novatec hubs are durable and parts are easy to buy all over ZA. Nukeproof make awesome products, but their hubs are not particularly known for durability. Because of the flange of the BOOST concept you will likely need the spokes to be cut, or even replaced. Have a chat to Wayne at Rapide, he builds killer wheels which run very true. Thanks, that make some good reading. Like to buy from kiwi and will get Droo @ stoke to do the deed with the rim.
usxorf Posted February 16, 2018 Posted February 16, 2018 I just went through the same shlepp. I have a hope hub so went with the wolftooth adapters and dished the wheel 3mm towards the drive side. After dishing the tension for drive side/non-drive is within 1 unit range (on my park tool tensiometer), so even without actual boost the wheel is probably stiffer. My rims are asym so YMMV. I would have preferred a boost hub but R3k vs R650... yeah. I wouldn't go with those ebay adapters, it's gonna be a pain taking the wheel off. For the crank/chainline you can try and keep your non boost crank - it gives a better chainline for riding in the granny gears - but I had no luck with a 34T. The clearance looked fine on the bikestand but rubbed the chainstay while riding. I've got a lekker scratch on the chainstay now (@Traveler gives some good advice with the tape). 30T or 32T would probably have worked. Bought a 32T boost chainring. You only need boost fork/front hub if you want to ride vetty tires, I think.
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