Jump to content

MTB disk brakes rubbing. Tried everything


Matuka

Recommended Posts

Posted

Success! Thanks for all the advice everyone, very helpful. Basically by tightening the bolts very very slowly I managed to keep the brakes lined up. This took a few attempts but eventually it worked. There was still a tiny bit of rubbing but I've had a couple of longish rides now and the wheel is back spinning smoothly! So in future what I will be doing is using a spacer, making sure not to overfill when I bleed the brakes and only tightening the bolts incrementally when putting them back on.

Thanks!

Posted

Just as an aside, make sure you push the pistons ALL the way back in when replacing pads. My sister-in law's bike (Sram Guide) was touching until we were told to do this. Almost kind of a piston reset I guess.

Lining up is critical.

I often check each wheel by spinning slowly and making sure it "settles" by then reversing slightly as it finds the heavy spot at 6'oclock.

Posted

Success! Thanks for all the advice everyone, very helpful. Basically by tightening the bolts very very slowly I managed to keep the brakes lined up. This took a few attempts but eventually it worked. There was still a tiny bit of rubbing but I've had a couple of longish rides now and the wheel is back spinning smoothly! So in future what I will be doing is using a spacer, making sure not to overfill when I bleed the brakes and only tightening the bolts incrementally when putting them back on.

Thanks!

Birzman make a very nice clamshell thing that helps with alignment of the caliper and keeping the spacing correct - like just under R100.... but not so useful if the pads are too close after bleeding.... :)

 

http://www.birzman.com/products_2.php?uID=2&cID=4&Key=133

Posted

When aligning the calipers loosen the bolts (about 1/2mm) - apply brakes firmly - keep them applied and tighten the bolts - now release the brakes and there you have it.

Posted

are you sure it is not touching the top of the caliper body by any chance ... I had a similar issue recently and using a thin shim under the brake adapter has solved the problem .... just shooting from the hip here.

Posted

are you sure it is not touching the top of the caliper body by any chance ... I had a similar issue recently and using a thin shim under the brake adapter has solved the problem .... just shooting from the hip here.

Thanks I have it sorted now. I dont think it was touching the caliper body it was just twisting when I tightened the bolts.

Posted

Birzman make a very nice clamshell thing that helps with alignment of the caliper and keeping the spacing correct - like just under R100.... but not so useful if the pads are too close after bleeding.... :)

 

http://www.birzman.com/products_2.php?uID=2&cID=4&Key=133

Thanks. This and the "piston opening tool" seem like worthwhile additions, after I battled with a mates XT brakes the other day. Made me appreciate my Hope brakes even more...

Posted

I have seen people use business cards to achieve the same results

true - but not as durable and are not so tricky to remove in 1 piece as a business card
Posted

Thanks. This and the "piston opening tool" seem like worthwhile additions, after I battled with a mates XT brakes the other day. Made me appreciate my Hope brakes even more...

That too... but a parktool one... don't use mine as much as the clamshel though
Posted

Brake hack:

For bleed blocks, you can use an ice cream stick....

For brake spacer, use feeler gauge that you have to set the spacing on a spark plug....

 

It is a good idea to clean the pistons with a spot of brake fluid.

 

After you have bled and serviced the brakes, take a rubber band and store the bike overnight with rubber bands around your grips and levers keeping the brake levers in ‘open’ or ‘actuated’ position. You’ll be pleasantly surprised at how much free travel you get removed from the system. No need to tighten the levers all the way retracted.

 

Warning:

Before you jam a brake reset tool into the caliper, make sure you open the top bleed port a bit. Forcing the tool between the pistons with too much force will destroy the brake bladder in the levers. Servo wave does not like repetitive return forces.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Settings My Forum Content My Followed Content Forum Settings Ad Messages My Ads My Favourites My Saved Alerts My Pay Deals Help Logout