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MTB Chains: To De-grease or Not-to-Degrease


love2fly

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Posted

Terrain can also determine which is the best lube for you - dry, mud, etc has an influence on the performance. Mud + squirt in my experience no bueno (Motorex Wet for that). Dusty and gritty, Motorex Wet = no bueno, Squirt better. Or Rock and Roll Blue...

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Posted

Daily commuter, all weather, over table mountain. Got 9000km on last cassette and chain. Not feasible to wash bike daily.when I do, I take sunlight dishwasher and brush and put smoove on. I think okes are honestly complicating things. And I pile on the miles, just short of 10 000km last year

Posted

I've stopped using Squirt. I just couldn't take the gunge anymore. Gone back to traditional dry and semi-dry lubes.

 

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Can't believe people still use Squirt. Normal Automatic Gearbox oil for me

Posted

I tried the degrease and paraffin wax thing, supposed to be the best. It doesn't last long, but surprising is that the chain picks up virtually no dirt with this method.

 

Sure oil is better than wax, but after a short time you get a grinding paste embedded in your chain of dirt and debris.

 

Squirt comes closest to the paraffin wax benefits without the hassle. This works for me, on the MTB I hardly wash the chain, just Squirt and bit of water. On the road bike the dirt builds up a bit, then I use one of those chain washers and paraffin.

 

After washing with chain washer and paraffin the chain is terrible, noisy as anything. So it must be pretty clean. Put couple of Squirt applications on it and there is nearly no noise, so the noise test indicates that the method is working.

Posted

I've stopped using Squirt. I just couldn't take the gunge anymore. Gone back to traditional dry and semi-dry lubes.

 

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Ditto! I have just moved to Smoove to see if that is less grungy, otherwise I will go back to proper lubes.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Personally I think the Borman article was valid 10 years ago and the modern wax or dry lubes offer a better option.

You simply cant do a dusty 80km stage on a mtb with a wet lube like he punts, there will be too much dust pickup - in my opinion...

This subject has been debated and beaten to death - "To dry Lube or Not to Dry Lube"

Here is the link to an old thread

 

https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/109516-the-great-chaincassettegears-thread/page-1

 

And here is the white paper written by the great Johan Bormman.

Posted

After using the Juice Lubes Ceramic on my road and MTB - As it is a somewhat "wet" style lube I am still on the hunt for something better. On my roadbike it is 100%.

I too believed that wax gets displaced and you need to use an "oil" type lube. I have tried a couple of the "oil" type lubes but met with zero success. Lots of dirt picked up despite wiping down.

It seems there is a trade off when you go for a viscous oil you pic up dust and it doesn't seem to penetrate (gets wiped away).

Have just switched to Juice Lubes Ceramic and working better than anything else I have tried.....

Posted

Apparently the Smoove degreaser (which you are supposed to use) is NOT eco friendly. My brother used it and as they wash their 2 bikes on the lawn they noticed that it was killing their lawn!

Ditto! I have just moved to Smoove to see if that is less grungy, otherwise I will go back to proper lubes.

Posted

Personally I think the Borman article was valid 10 years ago and the modern wax or dry lubes offer a better option.

You simply cant do a dusty 80km stage on a mtb with a wet lube like he punts, there will be too much dust pickup - in my opinion...

Trust me the technology on dry lubes hasn't changed in 10 years where they have now better lubrication compounds. Or they be using it in engines. 

 

The bottom line - best lubricant for metal surfaces is oil and yes it attracts and collects dirt, so yes it needs to be cleaned and re-lubed.

 

Chain and drivetrain longevity = lube with oil - ride your bike - clean your chain - lube with oil ...repeat

Posted

Q20

haha, went to visit a friend last weekend, drove up to his garage and there he is, tin of Q20 in his hand....asked what he was up to, said he had just used it on his 'timing' belt as it was making a noise and thought it would help....he is about 20,000km, over the service limit....doubt that Q20 is going to help when that belt snaps and he bends valves!

Posted

Your friend is in SEVERE danger of the belt slippinga tooth or two and bending some valves!!!!

haha, went to visit a friend last weekend, drove up to his garage and there he is, tin of Q20 in his hand....asked what he was up to, said he had just used it on his 'timing' belt as it was making a noise and thought it would help....he is about 20,000km, over the service limit....doubt that Q20 is going to help when that belt snaps and he bends valves!

Posted

Q20 and WD40 are water dispersants.

 

Fluid Film is a lanolin based lubricant/corrosion inhibitor. More like Ballistol if you like.

 

I ordered a can. Keen to give it a try.

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