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Silverback Stratos AL 5


Super Sywurm

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Nothing as yet, been sick but hopefully can put some mileage on it tomorrow  :thumbup:

I actually hope I don't get my bike today, because I wouldn't be able to ride this weekend.  I don't want my bike standing there and looking at me with sad eyes.

Edited by Super Sywurm
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I have heard a couple of times that a specific bike is faster than another bike and I always thought this was a b$lls&it statement to make.  But this bike feels faster than my Giant XTC.  It is also a bit longer than my hard tail and it kind of feels sloppy with the length of the bike and the wider handle bars, but that is something I need to get used to.

 

The brake levers are rattling, but I am completely upgrading then, so no worries.  I only done about 50km on it, so overall I will really miss my Giant XTC, but this is an excellent bike, a bit on the heavy side (you get what you pay for).  I am not a pro cyclist, so I don't mind.  I do it for the fun of it.

 

post-48060-0-17325400-1564473905_thumb.jpg

 

Question, what difference will a shorter handle bar make on a bike like this?

 

Edit:  And another thing, where can I get the weight of these rims.  Can't seem to find the specs on the internet.

Edited by Super Sywurm
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Those rims are 545g.

A narrower handlebar will "speed up" the steering and make it a bit more twitchy, if you're going to cut your bars I would recommend cutting 5mm from each side at a time, and then testing. Definitely do not just cut to the width you were riding previously (especially if it is very narrow), people are riding wider bars these days for a reason (that's not to say 780mm+ is for everyone), and modern bikes are designed with this in mind.

Edited by Tomoutside
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Those rims are 545g.

A narrower handlebar will "speed up" the steering and make it a bit more twitchy, if you're going to cut your bars I would recommend cutting 5mm from each side and then testing. Definitely do not just cut to the width you were riding previously (especially if it is very narrow), people are riding wider bars these days for a reason (that's not to say 780mm+ is for everyone), and modern bikes are designed with this in mind.

Can you send me a link for the rims?

 

The bars on the new bike is approximately 780 mm and the bars on my old bike I think is 680 mm.  I don't mind riding the wider bars, it actually feels good riding with them.  Was just wondering what it would do if they were shorter.  I think the wider bars is better for steering on the longer bike.

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Another question:  Put lighter American Classic rims on the bike, or use the AC rims with slicks as road wheels?

 

The lighter rims for road or off road?

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I can't - that was personally measured from a stripped rim.

 

As for the AC rims, I can't make the decision for you, but weight on the rims counts for more, as it also has rotational inertia (so you will feel 200g off the rims a lot more than 200g off the frame). Just remember that bike is boost, so the AC hubs would need to be as well.

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I can't - that was personally measured from a stripped rim.

 

As for the AC rims, I can't make the decision for you, but weight on the rims counts for more, as it also has rotational inertia (so you will feel 200g off the rims a lot more than 200g off the frame). Just remember that bike is boost, so the AC hubs would need to be as well.

Yes, I was thinking about building the boost hubs onto the AC rims.

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I can't - that was personally measured from a stripped rim.

 

As for the AC rims, I can't make the decision for you, but weight on the rims counts for more, as it also has rotational inertia (so you will feel 200g off the rims a lot more than 200g off the frame). Just remember that bike is boost, so the AC hubs would need to be as well.

Or maybe using some of these:

 

New Bitmap Image.bmp

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=boost+hub+adapter&rlz=1C1EJFA_enZA780ZA780&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwilpuK8qNzjAhXHbFAKHSeeAHEQ_AUIEigC&biw=1366&bih=625

Edited by Super Sywurm
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I can't - that was personally measured from a stripped rim.

 

As for the AC rims, I can't make the decision for you, but weight on the rims counts for more, as it also has rotational inertia (so you will feel 200g off the rims a lot more than 200g off the frame). Just remember that bike is boost, so the AC hubs would need to be as well.

I've been pondering this matter of it makes a 'big' difference when reducing weight on the 'rotational mass' ... I would assume that if you make a big enough difference from your current wheels then you would feel it but how much is that? Would you really feel 100 or 200g's ... or would it be more like from 500g's. Is there some magic number where it makes sense?

 

Maybe the fact that I'm a luddite and am not that 'in tune' with the bike I can't feel it ... [emoji57]

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I've been pondering this matter of it makes a 'big' difference when reducing weight on the 'rotational mass' ... I would assume that if you make a big enough difference from your current wheels then you would feel it but how much is that? Would you really feel 100 or 200g's ... or would it be more like from 500g's. Is there some magic number where it makes sense?

 

Maybe the fact that I'm a luddite and am not that 'in tune' with the bike I can't feel it ... [emoji57]

I upgraded my Kore wheels with the AC rims and I did not feel any difference.  They were a lot lighter, but I don't know by how much.

 

My conclusion was, the faster you ride, the more of a difference it would make.  Hence, using the lighter wheels with slicks on the road will make more sense than using the lighter wheels off road.

 

(I am no expert, just my experience).

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With a small hand pump, two bottle cage and a Reba fork,  the large frame bike weigh at +- 15.1 kg. :eek:

 

Assuming that includes pedals as per the picture? 

 

That is rather bulky. 

 

You can loose quite a measurable amount of weight by replacing seatpost, handlebars & a rim/wheel upgrade. If losing weight is important. 

 

It is a good looking bike. 

Edited by Traveler
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