Wend Chain wax

[W@nted]

Some feedback: I have been using wend wax for 2 months now on my mtb and road bike.

 

I applied some of the cleaner after applying the wax to the chain. Then worked it into the chain using my fingers. It works ok, bit still leaves some residue on the chainring, cassette and derailleur wheels after riding.

 

On the mtb the drivetrain was still quiet after a 100km ride in dusty conditions. So I am happy so far. I have not ridden in mud or rain.

 

On the road bike the drivetrain is quiet and lasted about 120km before starting to sound “dry”.

 

I then tried something else. After applying the wax on the road bike chain I used my wife’s hairdryer to heat the wax. It melts very easily and then flows into the links. After doing this, I have done 250km and the drivetrain is still quiet. Also very clean with minimal build up.

 

It is looking promising. I will continue the hairdryer method????

[Schmorglebot]

Some feedback: I have been using wend wax for 2 months now on my mtb and road bike.

 

I applied some of the cleaner after applying the wax to the chain. Then worked it into the chain using my fingers. It works ok, bit still leaves some residue on the chainring, cassette and derailleur wheels after riding.

 

On the mtb the drivetrain was still quiet after a 100km ride in dusty conditions. So I am happy so far. I have not ridden in mud or rain.

 

On the road bike the drivetrain is quiet and lasted about 120km before starting to sound “dry”.

 

I then tried something else. After applying the wax on the road bike chain I used my wife’s hairdryer to heat the wax. It melts very easily and then flows into the links. After doing this, I have done 250km and the drivetrain is still quiet. Also very clean with minimal build up.

 

It is looking promising. I will continue the hairdryer method

 

I don't understand how this stuff was ever supposed to work when applied in the normal fashion (the way that they demonstrate it in all their marketing material). I can see how the hairdryer method would get the wax into the pins and rollers but without that it would just sit on the outside of the chain.

 

I'm still a fan of using a slow cooker with wax, found a locally made alternative to Molten Speed Wax that I find just as good

[W@nted]

I don't understand how this stuff was ever supposed to work when applied in the normal fashion (the way that they demonstrate it in all their marketing material). I can see how the hairdryer method would get the wax into the pins and rollers but without that it would just sit on the outside of the chain.

 

I'm still a fan of using a slow cooker with wax, found a locally made alternative to Molten Speed Wax that I find just as good

Agreed. It is if little use if it is only stuck on the outside of the chain. The cleaner helps to “melt” some of the wax and allows it to get into the rollers. It works well enough if a hairdryer is not available????

[Paulst12]

Where can you get Paraffin wax from? I used normal paraffin and it didn't work. Im guessing there is a difference?

[MudLark]

Where can you get Paraffin wax from? I used normal paraffin and it didn't work. Im guessing there is a difference?

 

 

AFAIK most of the standard white candles are paraffin wax. Made by SASOL.

[EddieV]

I use a mix of 30% xylene 40% wax and 30% oil.

 

the xylene allows for reapplication but the initial application is a hot mix dip. Melt the wax and oil on an electric stove. no xylene at this stage.

Once its all liquid mix it with a whisk and then dip on a wire gauge ( strainer with the bottom flattened to rest the chain on. 

Then I let it all cool. Once the wax starts crystalising, remove the chain and reheat adding the xylene. mix again and allow to cool before decanting. It should flow ok while its warm ish. I decant into old squirt lube bottles I received in goodies bags and prize packets

 

... the 30% oil above, is that regular paraffin fuel? 

 

ie. mix 40% candle wax (melted) with 30% regular paraffin? Or is there a special paraffin "oil" other than the one which states paraffin fuel as in "Powafix Paraffin" from Builders? 

 

I've used the mix above, but often wondered if there is another oil I can use instead of paraffin as I use a gas stove to heat up the ingredients.   

[lechatnoir]

... the 30% oil above, is that regular paraffin fuel? 

 

ie. mix 40% candle wax (melted) with 30% regular paraffin? Or is there a special paraffin "oil" other than the one which states paraffin fuel as in "Powafix Paraffin" from Builders? 

 

I've used the mix above, but often wondered if there is another oil I can use instead of paraffin as I use a gas stove to heat up the ingredients.   

 

IFwhen it catches alight, you can turn the stove off 

[EddieV]

IFwhen it catches alight, you can turn the stove off 

 

i'll be posting here soon https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/183111-stuff-you-learnt-the-hard-way-by-being-your-own-mechanic

    

[MudLark]

What I've learned about chain wax is that most folk apply it wrong (myself included in the past).

 

I now use Squirt most of the time. I run the chain through a rag by rotating the crank until the chain is shiny clean. Then I apply Squirt a single drop to each roller (just the drop and just the roller), one roller at a time. Rotate the crank a few times to get the lube in under the rollers between the rollers and the pins. Leave to dry overnight. In the morning the chain should still clean and all shiny but if you touch it on the rollers between the plates it should feel just a little tacky while the outer surfaces of the plates still feel entirely clean and dry. If I have time,  then repeat the lube process again and leave to dry again.

 

You'd be amazed at how quiet it is and how little dirt it picks up.

 

If In a hurry, I use Herschels chain wax. It's fast drying (emulsion is made up with some pretty volatile fluid). 

 

I've got all kinds of chain lube and cleaning gear and done it every possible way but the first mentioned above seems to work the best for me, especially for dry and dusty conditions.

[lechatnoir]

What I've learned about chain wax is that most folk apply it wrong (myself included in the past).

 

I now use Squirt most of the time. I run the chain through a rag by rotating the crank until the chain is shiny clean. Then I apply Squirt a single drop to each roller (just the drop and just the roller), one roller at a time. Rotate the crank a few times to get the lube in under the rollers between the rollers and the pins. Leave to dry overnight. In the morning the chain should still clean and all shiny but if you touch it on the rollers between the plates it should feel just a little tacky while the outer surfaces of the plates still feel entirely clean and dry. If I have time,  then repeat the lube process again and leave to dry again.

 

You'd be amazed at how quiet it is and how little dirt it picks up.

 

If In a hurry, I use Herschels chain wax. It's fast drying (emulsion is made up with some pretty volatile fluid). 

 

I've got all kinds of chain lube and cleaning gear and done it every possible way but the first mentioned above seems to work the best for me, especially for dry and dusty conditions.

 

I use your first method too, except for when things are a bit too grimy, then I take the chain off and give it a good dunk/swirl in petrol. I let it dry off properly, then lube each roller/pin. But i've noticed that it takes two lube cycles to get the chain nice and quiet.

[love2fly]

No not really but I can measure the effect on my wallet!!

 

With m MTB I lube it every second or third ride and there's still wax inside. I clean with a rag sprayed with some pinkstuff/namgear chain cleaner.

Once a week I run it through the chain bath and every 1000km it goes back into the pot for a de-re-waxing-soak.

XX1 chain has 6700km on it now and its aroun 0.25-0.3% wear. Looks to be heading for 8000km before replacement so about a full years usage.

Road chains seem to last about 8000km as well which is also about a years usage as well.

 

Been using my own lube through the winter and it holds up very well even after a proper dunking. nothing stops sand sticking to the chain though....

I have done in excess of 20,000km on my Ultegra road chain using mostly Squirt.

[love2fly]

Petrol dries with a residue...if you want to work clean use Benzine, BUT make sure you work in a ventilated space and avoid skin contact - its not good for your liver.

I use your first method too, except for when things are a bit too grimy, then I take the chain off and give it a good dunk/swirl in petrol. I let it dry off properly, then lube each roller/pin. But i've noticed that it takes two lube cycles to get the chain nice and quiet.

Edited November 1, 2019 by love2fly

[MudLark]

Petrol dries with a residue...if you want to work clean use Benzine, BUT make sure you work in a ventilated space and avoid skin contact - its not good for your liver.

 

 

Good point. I haven't tried it yet because I usually pressure wash my bike (incl. chain) if things are very dirty but I suspect dropping the chain in a bath of boiling water will float most of the old crud (wax) off too.

[love2fly]

Good point. I haven't tried it yet because I usually pressure wash my bike (incl. chain) if things are very dirty but I suspect dropping the chain in a bath of boiling water will float most of the old crud (wax) off too.

Some might say doing a full degrease washes out the grease residue and unnecessarily dries out the chain (ala Squirt)...I am between those philosophy's in that I wash it with degreaser (Pink Stuff) now and then when its very dirty and re-lube with Squirt but semi-sparingly. I used to use too much and the jocky wheels on my Mtb used to get a bit caked...

[MudLark]

Some might say doing a full degrease washes out the grease residue and unnecessarily dries out the chain (ala Squirt)...I am between those philosophy's in that I wash it with degreaser (Pink Stuff) now and then when its very dirty and re-lube with Squirt but semi-sparingly. I used to use too much and the jocky wheels on my Mtb used to get a bit caked...

Concur re washing out the residue but IMHO the Squirt gets in there again with no issues. In fact, that's what you're really trying to lube - the interface between the rollers and the pins.

 

Totally ditto about used to use too much.