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Shimano Rear Mech Short cage question


The Ouzo

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otherwise you're looking for something like a chain ring bolt that fits into a sleve so can be flish both sides?

 

51_2bisthftel.jpg

this is exactly the solution I'm trying to achieve, chainring bolts though are to thick and to short. But same concept.

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Long or short cage?

 

 

 

Shimano 105 so either short or medium cage.

If you have a cage for that derailleur It won't matter which. All he'll have to do is alter the length of the chain

 

 

OUZO, you can also try a longer bolt but fit a snap ring on the end of the bolt and a healthy dollup of loctite so that it doesn't turn itself off.

after this one I'm out of cheap solutions.

Might have a sale next week if I come up with some rehashed ideas

Edited by DieselnDust
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Don’t forget to take a photo and post it on the GCN app “forward slash, hack/bodge”.

 

Seriously though.

I measure 5mm between cage and spokes (105, 11spd, Fulcrum wheels when in the 28T cog.

 

Are you sure your hanger bracket is straight?

 

You definitely need a countersunk screw, but the thread is smaller than the bit that fits inside the bearing spacer (5mm), so you’ll probably have to drill the threaded section on the cage to accommodate a 5mm CS screw.

 

I measure the screw at 13mm, so you’re looking at least 16mm or longer to ensure you can use a nut at the end derailleur side.

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So it’s in and working.

 

Landed up putting the dome part of the bolt on the spoke side, still had to shave off a few mm though.

Nut on the outside.

 

I put it all together, re-indexed and made sure that even if I was pulling the shifter lever it did not hit the spokes.

 

Then took it all apart, put some thread lock and put it all together again.

 

Called it a night after that.

 

Tomorrow evening I’ll do a final check to see if the thread lock took and then it’s good to go.

 

 

 

But

I saw CWC has a 105 cage listed on their site, it’s not the right model, but I’ve mailed them to see if they can get the right one.

I’d rather have an unbodged RD. But this will work for now.

Edited by ouzo
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Good job! You do also have the full range of gears available ?

The nut does not impede the jockey cage when in the small chain ring?

Edited by DieselnDust
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Good job! You do also have the full range of gears available ?

The nut does not impede the jockey cage when in the small chain ring?

full range of gears available, completely free movement of everything.

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Don’t forget to take a photo and post it on the GCN app “forward slash, hack/bodge”.

 

Seriously though.

I measure 5mm between cage and spokes (105, 11spd, Fulcrum wheels when in the 28T cog.

 

Are you sure your hanger bracket is straight?

 

You definitely need a countersunk screw, but the thread is smaller than the bit that fits inside the bearing spacer (5mm), so you’ll probably have to drill the threaded section on the cage to accommodate a 5mm CS screw.

 

I measure the screw at 13mm, so you’re looking at least 16mm or longer to ensure you can use a nut at the end derailleur side.

I had the cable off the RD and realised last night when I hooked everything back up that during my testing I was pushing the RD over to far. With the cable hooked up there is no way to get the RD that close to the spokes using the shifter.

But better safe that sorry.

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Don’t forget to take a photo and post it on the GCN app “forward slash, hack/bodge”.

 

Seriously though.

it's "hack forward slash bodge"

now do the arm movement when you say this.

 

ja, also not surprised how this never caught on

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it's "hack forward slash bodge"

now do the arm movement when you say this.

 

ja, also not surprised how this never caught on

thanks, guess I bodged that [emoji1787]
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BTW just as an observation, since you were able to force the derailleur by hand to within a couple of mm from the spokes please look at your low and high limit screws. Your upper guide pulley should be directly under the largest sprocket when it hits the limit screw, maybe just 0.2 mm inboard but no more.

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