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Posted (edited)

Here have all the forks gone? Prelock down people couldn't give them away. Pikes and 34s around, MRP coils not being able to sell, Ohlins going for a bargain. Now nothing. 

Edited by Dirt Tracker
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Posted

Here have all the forks gone? Prelock down people couldn't give them away. Pikes and 34s around, MRP coils not being able to sell, Ohlins going for a bargain. Now nothing. 

Tell me about it!

Apart from 1 or 2 small thing, I only need a fork.

Also thought I would be spoiled for choice when the time comes but doesn't look that way.

Posted

I've also seen old forks listed at new fork prices.

 

The classifieds is rife with guys selling bits, frames and forks for more than they paid for them 5 years ago.

 

Cycling is fast becoming way too dear for me as 'industry inflation' kills the 2nd hand market as well as the new.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Next topic of of advice please: Fork steer tube length

 

My head tube is 110mm, bottom headset 12mm, top 8mm, and stem is 45mm.

All this adds up to 175mm with no spacres.

 

What you you say is the shortest fork steer tube that I can get away with? 

Posted

Next topic of of advice please: Fork steer tube length

 

My head tube is 110mm, bottom headset 12mm, top 8mm, and stem is 45mm.

All this adds up to 175mm with no spacres.

 

What you you say is the shortest fork steer tube that I can get away with? 

180mm

Posted

Next topic of of advice please: Fork steer tube length

 

My head tube is 110mm, bottom headset 12mm, top 8mm, and stem is 45mm.

All this adds up to 175mm with no spacres.

 

What you you say is the shortest fork steer tube that I can get away with?

If you're dead sure about all those measurements then 2mm is generally enough to take up the slack is 177mm

Posted

Ooh, I've not seen this thread yet.  I'm in the same boat and also have a lekka Cotic frame (found on the Hub for a steal and bought it without knowing what I would do with it) which I'm turning into a hashtag enduro hardtail  :clap:

 

I've been getting a few parts together for it and it's starting to resemble a bike now.

Ohlins RXF 36 fork, Industry 9 Torch hub, XO cranks, 35mm KS carbon bar and stem, TRP G-Spec Quadrium brakeset and a dropper.  

I need to get some rims now and I'm thinking Nextie as I've been really happy with them on my XC bike over the last two years.  

 

The frame has been powder coated a nice cyan blue and looks brand new but doesn't have any Cotic decals on it.  Where can I have these made?  

Posted

180mm

 

 

If you're dead sure about all those measurements then 2mm is generally enough to take up the slack is 177mm

 

How much...?

Are you guys saying that I have to use a spacer?

The way I see it, the steerer should NOT stick out above the stem to be able to "torque" the headset?

I.e. Head tube + top and bottom headset + stem = 175mm, so if I get a fork with 170 steerer then I've got 5mm to "compress" the headset (without spacers)

Posted

How much...?

Are you guys saying that I have to use a spacer?

The way I see it, the steerer should NOT stick out above the stem to be able to "torque" the headset?

I.e. Head tube + top and bottom headset + stem = 175mm, so if I get a fork with 170 steerer then I've got 5mm to "compress" the headset (without spacers)

So, my 2c

 

If you cut a fork steerer to 170mm, it will not sell again.

 

Also, I don't live by a set of ironic rules and choose practicality and functionality.

 

If you set a new bike up, having the option of changing the stack/bar height is always handy.

 

But it seems you have your own answer so by all means go for it. IMHO (which was asked) I would start with 180mm, play with bar height and riding position and then go as short as possible if you must.

 

New bikes, especially 'hardcore' hardtails need to be comfy. If you are too attack position while seated they can get pretty uncomfortable to ride.

 

I have a 5mm spacer on top of all my MTB stems. I don't think it looks bad, it is practical and truth be told, I mtb in ankle socks, golf shirts and normal cottonT's, so I probably break all the listed ironies anyway.....

Posted (edited)

So, my 2c

 

If you cut a fork steerer to 170mm, it will not sell again.

 

Also, I don't live by a set of ironic rules and choose practicality and functionality.

 

If you set a new bike up, having the option of changing the stack/bar height is always handy.

 

But it seems you have your own answer so by all means go for it. IMHO (which was asked) I would start with 180mm, play with bar height and riding position and then go as short as possible if you must.

 

New bikes, especially 'hardcore' hardtails need to be comfy. If you are too attack position while seated they can get pretty uncomfortable to ride.

 

I have a 5mm spacer on top of all my MTB stems. I don't think it looks bad, it is practical and truth be told, I mtb in ankle socks, golf shirts and normal cottonT's, so I probably break all the listed ironies anyway.....

Ahh, I see where we went wrong.

You are under the assumption that I have a brand new fresh fork in a box somewhere and I just want to trim for aesthetic purposes. Nope.

 

Still shopping around 2nd hand stuff that has already been snipped.

My question in other words are, what is the biggest gap between top cap and steerer that I'll be able to get away with? I.e anything more than 15mm is looking for trouble.

I fully realize that the answer will be "IMHO" based and not based on scientific fact.

Edited by Joe Soap
Posted

Ahh, I see where we went wrong.

You are under the assumption that I have a brand new fresh fork in a box somewhere and I just want to trim for aesthetic purposes. Nope.

 

Still shopping around 2nd hand stuff that has already been snipped.

My question in other words are, what is the biggest gap between top cap and steerer that I'll be able to get away with? I.e anything more than 15mm is looking for trouble.

I fully realize that the answer will be "IMHO" based and not based on scientific fact.

 

15mm is way too much - aim for 2-3mm or so. You need that top bolt on your stem to have something to tighten up against, otherwise you will crunch the stem. 

Posted

Ahh, I see where we went wrong.

You are under the assumption that I have a brand new fresh fork in a box somewhere and I just want to trim for aesthetic purposes. Nope.

 

Still shopping around 2nd hand stuff that has already been snipped.

My question in other words are, what is the biggest gap between top cap and steerer that I'll be able to get away with? I.e anything more than 15mm is looking for trouble.

I fully realize that the answer will be "IMHO" based and not based on scientific fact.

ha!!

 

OK, so my opinion would THEN be to make sure the top bolt of the stem cinched the steerer.

 

So on some stems that gives you more leeway than on others.

 

What fork are you looking for as a matter of interest?

Posted

ha!!

 

OK, so my opinion would THEN be to make sure the top bolt of the stem cinched the steerer.

 

So on some stems that gives you more leeway than on others.

 

What fork are you looking for as a matter of interest?

 

That sounds like a very logical approach.

 

Apparently I'm looking for fossilized Unicorns at this stage...

(Pike/Fox34 with 120-130 travel, boost and 170mm steerer) 

 

If a well priced other fork (i.e. SID/32) comes along I might also consider it but has to be 120 travel.

 

But not too fussed about the brand/model

Posted

Remember RBC can now provide and install a new steerer tube if you got a codfather deal on a fork and the steerer ends up being too short. So many times I had to walk away from good deals, well no longer.

Posted

Remember RBC can now provide and install a new steerer tube if you got a codfather deal on a fork and the steerer ends up being too short. So many times I had to walk away from good deals, well no longer.

Royal Bank of Canada?

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