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Posted

My 2 cents. I believe it is a combination of a too short chain and a clutch issue. The clutch thing is a known issue with Shimano. There is a description and fix below;

 

https://crankjoy.com/review-update-shimano-xt-8100-arising-issue/

 

This is where I was going - it looks like a range of motion problem with the deraileur.

 

The deraileur should be able to take up a whole lot more slack than it is currently managing - basically it should take up slack until the chain hits the deraileur cage.

So, does it make any difference to shifting if you turn the clutch off? This would indicate some similarity to the issue in the video above. Alternatively if you turn the clutch off can you feel the spring tension 'giving up' before it gets to the end of its range. The clutch cover is pretty easy to pop off - is it dirty/dusty/wet inside there?

 

On the older deraileurs (pre-clutch) it was possible to open up the B-tension spring inside the knuckle of the deraileur, and reinstall with the spring in a higher tension position (some deraileurs had 2 holes for the spring, some you could do it if you drilled it yourself). I have not tried doing this with a clutch type deraileur but I'd imagine it is still possible.

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Posted

Its an easy check OP.

 

If you still have the cog you swopoed out yo put that 40T in there...put it back and try it with 36T max. All things being equal im relatively sure it will take up all the slack in the 11t then. If not, then only i will consider opening up the clutch. It could be, but I doubt it’s that. The 10 speed ones have an o-ring in there.

 

 

I unfortunately don't have the original sprocket. I bought the bike with the 40t already on.

 

This is where I was going - it looks like a range of motion problem with the deraileur.

 

The deraileur should be able to take up a whole lot more slack than it is currently managing - basically it should take up slack until the chain hits the deraileur cage.

So, does it make any difference to shifting if you turn the clutch off? This would indicate some similarity to the issue in the video above. Alternatively if you turn the clutch off can you feel the spring tension 'giving up' before it gets to the end of its range. The clutch cover is pretty easy to pop off - is it dirty/dusty/wet inside there?

 

On the older deraileurs (pre-clutch) it was possible to open up the B-tension spring inside the knuckle of the deraileur, and reinstall with the spring in a higher tension position (some deraileurs had 2 holes for the spring, some you could do it if you drilled it yourself). I have not tried doing this with a clutch type deraileur but I'd imagine it is still possible.

 

Clutch on or off seems to make no difference.

 

 

 

The other thing I'm wondering is if a derailleur extender will even make a difference? I'm not sure, but it looks like there may already be something similar on the derailleur (not sure though, it just looks like the derailleur has a piece between the hanger and the derailleur itself - this piece seems to be where the extender would go?)

Posted (edited)

I unfortunately don't have the original sprocket. I bought the bike with the 40t already on.

 

 

Clutch on or off seems to make no difference.

 

 

 

The other thing I'm wondering is if a derailleur extender will even make a difference? I'm not sure, but it looks like there may already be something similar on the derailleur (not sure though, it just looks like the derailleur has a piece between the hanger and the derailleur itself - this piece seems to be where the extender would go?)

the extender replaces that similar looking part on the derailleur. it's a different geometry to the stock one.

 

her's a pic of one with the wolftooth goatlink installed:

 

but anyhow...looks like you need a new bike :devil:

post-64325-0-29935400-1597652557_thumb.jpg

Edited by morneS555
Posted

I unfortunately don't have the original sprocket. I bought the bike with the 40t already on.

 

 

Clutch on or off seems to make no difference.

 

 

 

The other thing I'm wondering is if a derailleur extender will even make a difference? I'm not sure, but it looks like there may already be something similar on the derailleur (not sure though, it just looks like the derailleur has a piece between the hanger and the derailleur itself - this piece seems to be where the extender would go?)

You don't need a derailleur extender. I have an 40-11 and a 42-11 ten speed 1x on two bikes and both work fine. I am using an SLX 10 speed clutch derailleur for both and they are pretty much the same as your XT derailleur.

Posted

I know it does seem like it is too short when on the largest sprocket, but the weird part is that it is super loose on the smallest sprocket.

The slipping may have to do with the chainring alignment. Logic says that if it wasn't slipping when you ran it only the middle chainring then the issue is not at the rear.. Look at adding spacers to between your front chain ring to get better alignment

Posted

RD cage pivot needs a service and you're good to go.

 

Cassette and chain wear you'll need a chain checker or a ruler, by the time you can see it in a photo it'll be totally unrideable.

Posted

RD cage pivot needs a service and you're good to go.

 

Cassette and chain wear you'll need a chain checker or a ruler, by the time you can see it in a photo it'll be totally unrideable.

 

Have checked the chain with a chain checker tool, all good there.

 

I was thinking that the cage pivot might be the culprit. I;m not so sure on the procedure for servicing it. I took the clutch cover off and checked inside, all looks good; no dirt or muck inside at all, might need greasing though.

 

Do you perhaps have any links or anything related to servicing the pivot?

Posted

I'm running a similar 10spd derailleur with 11-42T no extender required, so doubt that's the issue.

 

I used to ride the same setup and never had an issue.

 

OP,  as already mentioned by others, there is likely an issue with your rear derailleur.

Posted

I used to ride the same setup and never had an issue.

 

OP,  as already mentioned by others, there is likely an issue with your rear derailleur.

 

Yip it seems that if I'm not able to somehow increase the strength of the cage pivot via a service or some other means, then my only option will be to get a new derailleur.

Posted

Have checked the chain with a chain checker tool, all good there.

 

I was thinking that the cage pivot might be the culprit. I;m not so sure on the procedure for servicing it. I took the clutch cover off and checked inside, all looks good; no dirt or muck inside at all, might need greasing though.

 

Do you perhaps have any links or anything related to servicing the pivot?

 

Remove clutch cover

Remove clutch mechanism

Remove cage stop - it's a post with a philips screw on it that keeps the cage spring preloaded - cage will rotate about 1 - 1.5 turns and then stop.

4mm (I think) hex into the end of the pivot, hold cage and unscrew bolt

Push out cage pivot - this step will take some persuasion if it's as stuck as yours seems to be.

Clean out guff from pivot and spring.

Regrease with Shimano grease - the green stuff. Don't be tempted to use anything else in this case.

Reassemble in reverse order.

Take photos along the way if you don't have a photographic memory.

Posted

Remove clutch cover

Remove clutch mechanism

Remove cage stop - it's a post with a philips screw on it that keeps the cage spring preloaded - cage will rotate about 1 - 1.5 turns and then stop.

4mm (I think) hex into the end of the pivot, hold cage and unscrew bolt

Push out cage pivot - this step will take some persuasion if it's as stuck as yours seems to be.

Clean out guff from pivot and spring.

Regrease with Shimano grease - the green stuff. Don't be tempted to use anything else in this case.

Reassemble in reverse order.

Take photos along the way if you don't have a photographic memory.

 

I will give this a try and report back, just need to get some of the grease.

 

Many thanks!

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