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Posted (edited)

Hi shock experts

 

I bought a used Monarch RL here on the Hub a few weeks ago to use as a spare until I get mine serviced.

This one was at a reasonable price and had according to the seller been sent for a service (he thought to Cape Cycles - By his father...).

 

Ive just fitted it and cant get it to lock, which I understand could be a sign that the damper needs a service - Is that correct?

There is some "squelching" noise but it holds my 30% sag at the same pressure as my "old" RL).

 

I've read that it could need IFP pressure - Is that possible?

Can one check and add if necessary without complete dissasembly? - Provided one has the adapter. I understand that the valve is hidden behind the cover near the bottom pin?

 

Help would be greatly appreciated.

Edited by love2fly
Posted

i would not fiddle with the IFP pressure if  you don't have the correct tools and fittings and zero experience.

 

But not locking out shouldn't have anything to do with IFP pressure. 

Posted

I have a fair bit of experience and good mechanical understanding. I've serviced my forks and done an aircan service on my other shock. I just want to know if it's worth checking the IFP pressure which if I'm right should be 500psi...it just needs an adapter and shock pump or nitrogen...

Posted

There might be an oring on the metering rod that closes a dish on the Piston to achieve "lockout"

 

That oring might be broken or damaged, some monarchs have them some don't

 

The RL should have a firm lockout, if it hasnt been serviced in a long time the oil might be trash anyway and could be cause some decline in performance

 

Uping the pressure will just push up the trash oil, ifp depth and pressure changes from shock length and type

 

 

Usually with a "threshold shock" Uping the ifp pressure could improve the firm setting, but these shocks use a different valve

 

 

You shock should go to someone qualified to have a look at it

 

 

The pressure should be somewhere between 350 and 500 psi on dish shocks, 500 is most common on dish shocks

 

The rockshox pressure is tricky cause you ha e to use the adapter at the bottom to charge it. Most shock mechs modify those adapters to their liking cause out of the box they just suck.

 

 

Ifp pressure could be your problem but I doubt it, a full rebuild is in order and again I urge you to send it to someone who knows.

 

Stoke suspension if in the cape or cogent industries if in gauteng

Posted

.... So after buying and selling for years on the Hub I finally got ripped off. Oh well....

as A rule I always say when buying second hand suspension factor in a rebuild cost 

 

 

Most people don't know the difference in performance from a brand new shock vs a trash one , even more people than that don't ever send their suspension in for proper servicing 

Posted

So far I've taken Hub sellers at their word.But there're face to face bullshi##ers here too. Lesson learned. I'll get my shock serviced and afterwards service this myself to learn.

Posted

Just an update... Had a good chat to seller who agreed a mistake made re having been serviced. Seller has reimbursed me for cost of shock service. Am very happy and my faith in the Hub has been fully restored.

Posted

IFP is short for internal floating piston, and the air pressure behind it keeps the damper oil under positive pressure so that the oil behind the piston doesn't cavitate at high shaft speeds. The bit that controls compression and rebound damping, and is responsible for the squelchy noise, is the damper, but for some reason many people refer to this as the IFP. It's not.

 

The squelchy noise you're hearing is because the damper oil is aerated, ie. air and oil have mixed inside the damper. Which means the damper has failed, and needs to be rebuilt.

 

Checking IFP pressure is impossible, because the amount of air that will escape into a pressure gauge is almost the total volume of air in the IFP chamber.

 

If the IFP has lost pressure, recharging it won't help either - if it's been ridden in that state, the oil will be aerated and will have to be replaced. This is also why dropper posts go spongy if you pick your bike up by the seat when the post is compressed - there's gas in solution in the oil, and this boils off under the vacuum created by pulling on the post. Spongy post, squelchy shock.

 

Much rambling just to correct a few semantic errors... but glad you got sorted anyways. Send it to Jacques at Cogent. He'll make right.

Posted

The big challenge you wil now have is that if the damper shaft and air spring shaft are scored or have slight wear marks you will basically be in for a new shock because the service cost is going to be coming up to around R5000...

Still cheaper than a new unit but then you have a new unit

Something to consider

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