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Trek Roscoe - Raw and Polish


Fleming

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Very nice.

I am planning on doing it to an old Giant Talon frame.

It was my son's old bike and has been standing for most part of 2020.

Wife is actually dropping him off today at Bhejane.

She will bring it back tomorrow.

Want to build a monstercross from it.

Got the original idea from Spindatt you tube channel wit his rawnstercross.

Awesome outcome.

Love it!

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On 1/14/2021 at 12:12 PM, Fleming said:

I've had my Trek for a little over 3 years now and the paint has stated to look very grubby. Lots of scrapes through to the metal and in general it was just looking very tired. I have always loved polished aluminium bikes and thought now was the time to give my Roscoe this treatment.

 

Below is a overview of the process from start to finish.

 

Obligatory before picture:

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Because I wanted to polish the frame I didnt want to sand the paint off or have it sand blasted. Instead I opted to use a chemical paint stripper with brass pot scourer and brush to remove the paint. I did a small test on the bottom of the BB to check that the stripper would do its job.

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Next I had to disassemble the bike and start stripping the paint.

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After a few hours I was left with this:

post-4384-0-61370800-1610617935_thumb.jpg

 

Unfortunately I didnt get any pics of the next few steps. After removing the paint I started wet sanding with 800 grit sand paper and finished off with 1200 grit. Then came polishing with a product called Autosol and finally I applied some fresh decals.

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And finally some pics of the complete bike:

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Why would you recommend not doing the sand blasting?

and what was the chemical paint stripper you used as I would love to do this to my bike to, it looks frikkin awesome!

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Guessing that sand blasting might be too aggressive for thin alu tubing. Probably Plascon paint stripper. Yes, it looks very nice :)

I wonder if there are issues with the sun reflecting into your eyes from the top tube? In which case you can probably paint a section a different less reflective colour.

Edited by MrJacques
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2 minutes ago, MrJacques said:

Guessing that sand blasting might be too aggressive for thin alu tubing. Probably Plascon paint stripper. Yes, it looks very nice :)

I wonder if there are issues with the sun reflecting into your eyes from the top tube? In which case you can probably paint a section a different less reflective colour.

I have enough chrome parts on my motorbike to tell you that glare should not be an issue :P

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17 hours ago, Meloid said:

Why would you recommend not doing the sand blasting?

and what was the chemical paint stripper you used as I would love to do this to my bike to, it looks frikkin awesome!

My main reason is that I felt sand blasting would leave a satin finish which would mean extra effort in polishing. From pervious experience doing this I know most of the tubes are relatively shiny from the manufacturer so this made the polishing easy. Also, to have it sand blasted would have cost more than the cost for the paint stripper. Unfortunately, I cant recall the brand. I think it was Alcolin but cant be sure.

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1 minute ago, Fleming said:

My main reason is that I felt sand blasting would leave a satin finish which would mean extra effort in polishing. From pervious experience doing this I know most of the tubes are relatively shiny from the manufacturer so this made the polishing easy. Also, to have it sand blasted would have cost more than the cost for the paint stripper. Unfortunately, I cant recall the brand. I think it was Alcolin but cant be sure.

Thankyou that’s such a great help,  hope my frame comes out looking at cool as yours!

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16 hours ago, MrJacques said:

Guessing that sand blasting might be too aggressive for thin alu tubing. Probably Plascon paint stripper. Yes, it looks very nice :)

I wonder if there are issues with the sun reflecting into your eyes from the top tube? In which case you can probably paint a section a different less reflective colour.

To be honest the sun reflecting off the top tube was a bit of a problem but only because this bike has a relatively flat surface on top. On bikes with round top tubes it isnt a problem.

e4ad70acb8239730bce27bc432385c8f.jpg.f932d29c6c3bbac320bf7e53eac9b5ba.jpg

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21 hours ago, Meloid said:

Why would you recommend not doing the sand blasting?

and what was the chemical paint stripper you used as I would love to do this to my bike to, it looks frikkin awesome!

I took a chance with Powafix Powastrip as I was unable to source aluminium aircraft paint stripper.  I found that I needed to be fairly generous with the gel for a thorough tube-by-tube job.  Drop sheet, gloves, stiff silicone spatulas to scrape, and I found those wooden ice lolly stokkies great for the more resistant bits (so it doesn’t scratch), then Scotchbrite pads, and Autosol aluminium polish with a soft cloth to finish.  Holographic transfer decals were done same-day at the local print shop.  Entire job and re-assembly took two days.  LBS guy paid me to do his HT after seeing mine.

Finish is similar to Fleming’s, not overdone.  Of course you can finesse lesser or greater shine.  As for top tube glare, I don’t ever notice it at speed with eyes further ahead on trails.

I find that I have to dry/wipe the down tube after each ride or the condensation dripping from the water bottle will leave water marks.  If I sweat onto the top tube, it requires a gentle rinse and thorough wipe immediately after the ride.  After my next polish and re-decal I’m going to clear Armour-Ride it.

Edited by justinafrika
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Looking to embark on a similar project with my sons old 26er.

Has a Cannondale HT frame that is showing its age and would be perfect for something like this.

 

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3 minutes ago, justinafrika said:

I took a chance with Powafix Powastrip as I was unable to source aluminium aircraft paint stripper.  I found that I needed to be fairly generous with the gel for a thorough tube-by-tube job.  Drop sheet, stiff silicone spatulas to scrape, and I found those wooden ice lolly stokkies great for the more resistant bits (so it doesn’t scratch), then Scotchbrite pads, and Autosol aluminium polish with a soft cloth to finish.  Printed holographic decals at the local print shop.  Entire job and re-assembly took two days.  LBS guy paid me to do his HT after seeing mine.

Finish is much like Fleming’s, not overdone.  Of course you can finesse lesser or greater shine.  As for top tube glare, I don’t ever notice it at speed with eyes further ahead on trails.

I find that I have to dry/wipe the down tube after each ride or the condensation dripping from the water bottle will leave water marks.  Sweating onto the top tube requires a gentle rinse and thorough wipe right after each ride.  After my next polish and re-decal I’m going to clear Armour-Ride it.

Legend thankyou, clear armour ride that’s a great plan, then it should keep its rad shiny look. I saw a free ride GT bike with the whole buffed shiny look with small areas of painted black and I’m in love, so after seeing your post on how doable it is, I think I’m gonna give it a go😄

IMG_7275.jpeg

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  • 1 month later...
On 1/15/2024 at 10:18 AM, justinafrika said:

I took a chance with Powafix Powastrip as I was unable to source aluminium aircraft paint stripper.  I found that I needed to be fairly generous with the gel for a thorough tube-by-tube job.  Drop sheet, gloves, stiff silicone spatulas to scrape, and I found those wooden ice lolly stokkies great for the more resistant bits (so it doesn’t scratch), then Scotchbrite pads, and Autosol aluminium polish with a soft cloth to finish.  Holographic transfer decals were done same-day at the local print shop.  Entire job and re-assembly took two days.  LBS guy paid me to do his HT after seeing mine.

Finish is similar to Fleming’s, not overdone.  Of course you can finesse lesser or greater shine.  As for top tube glare, I don’t ever notice it at speed with eyes further ahead on trails.

I find that I have to dry/wipe the down tube after each ride or the condensation dripping from the water bottle will leave water marks.  If I sweat onto the top tube, it requires a gentle rinse and thorough wipe immediately after the ride.  After my next polish and re-decal I’m going to clear Armour-Ride it.

Glad it worked out. Any pics of the finished product?

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I got hold of a an old DHC frame a while ago that was powder coated . Tried different methods and in the end got an out of job gent and left the frame with him with a heap of sandpaper. That did it 

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I did this a couple of years back to a Slade Trail frame, took it to a shop in Montague Gardens (I forget the name) and they dip it in a non corrosive solution and it comes out clean and raw. Cost me R150 bucks. Then i hit it with a scotch brite pad and brasso for a few days and hours as it comes out quite dull in raw alu after removing the paint, and then once it has that brushed look i had a guy apply a clear coat. (Yes i know i didn't do much myself, but it came out good, and was well worth all the blisters from shining it up and scotch briting it)

Slade.jpg

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5 hours ago, Fleming said:

Glad it worked out. Any pics of the finished product?

Limited options as I hardly ever take pics with my visually limited old phone, my phones tend to last for ages.

 

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image.jpeg.ee56c163130c98c3b1aa3dc450020742.jpeg

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