Lube that

[dr5mn]

Hi

 

This may be my first ever post, but I’ve been following the forum for many years.

 

Although I am an engineer, I’m somewhat of a noob when it comes to bike mechanics and the vast range of new tools and parts available.

 

I searched this forum (using Tapatalk) bit could not find any existing threads about grease, which is kinda odd. Maybe this app’s search isn’t that great...

 

But anyway, here goes.

 

What are the thoughts about general grease like WB or LM from Castrol?

 

The guys oversees (where parts available and tools are cheap and quick to get delivered to your door) use lubes like Slickoleum and Park Tool grease, bit those cost more than a nice bottle of Irish Whiskey.

 

I particularly want to know how these cheap lubes will perform in

Headset

Hubs

SPD

 

I have not and don’t know how to open up the freehub, so I won’t even dare ask how to lube it.

[Mojoman]

Hi

 

This may be my first ever post, but I’ve been following the forum for many years.

 

Although I am an engineer, I’m somewhat of a noob when it comes to bike mechanics and the vast range of new tools and parts available.

 

I searched this forum (using Tapatalk) bit could not find any existing threads about grease, which is kinda odd. Maybe this app’s search isn’t that great...

 

But anyway, here goes.

 

What are the thoughts about general grease like WB or LM from Castrol?

 

The guys oversees (where parts available and tools are cheap and quick to get delivered to your door) use lubes like Slickoleum and Park Tool grease, bit those cost more than a nice bottle of Irish Whiskey.

 

I particularly want to know how these cheap lubes will perform in

Headset

Hubs

SPD

 

I have not and don’t know how to open up the freehub, so I won’t even dare ask how to lube it.

I use a general wheel bearing grease for the various bearings and seat post....Tub lasts about 4 years odd....BUT I also have cheap cup and cone Shimano hubs ,  cheap M520's....cheap headset

 

I also dont subscribe to the fancy and expensive oils MUST be used train of thought...Main thing as you will know with maintenance is to be ontop of things and repair or replace before the costs start to add up....

BUT again I have a cheap (well, thats relative) RS Recon fork....(Still gets serviced and looked after though...no excuse to leave things to get worse and crappy just because its not a fancy pants R15k fork...Even 'cheap' bikes are expensive these days!)

 

Same as the Fox/RS suspension oils....Can get the same weights for 1/3 of the price at your local motorbike shop with Motol or others...Used these oils in both Fox and RS forks/shocks with zero issues....

 

Remember as well, unless you are servicing a lot of bikes, no matter what you buy it should last you quite a while...

 

Unlike a nice bottle of whisky......  

 

Edited March 14, 2021 by Mojoman

[porqui]

As a general purpose grease I use Everon marine grease.

 

Chain  - car oil or machine oil but without detergents and no synthetics.

 

Shocks and fork - go to the local motorbike shop.

 

AND      Sram Butter

[Mountain Bru]

Not an expert, but I bought a tub of Park Tools grease a few years ago, and I think it'll last me flippen long so it's not thaat expensive.  (https://capemulti.co.za/product/park-tool-ppl-2-polylube-1000-lubricant-tub/)

I also bought a marinade injecting syringe (cheaper version of this from checkers:  https://www.takealot.com/landmann-selection-marinade-injector/PLID69147101),  trimmed the end of the needle with plyers, and use it as a grease gun, which I think means I waste much less, and it's much easier to use and not so messy. 

 

In terms of stuff to lube.... Every thread either needs threadlocker (the blue one), or grease. This is crucial if you want to avoid tears when you strip bolts or round bolt heads or can't undo your pedals. Bearings can also do with some grease when you put them in (headset, derailleur pulleys, wheel bearings, etc). Never serviced my pedals (maybe should at some point, but it seems like a mission thats not worth it). If you don't have sealed bearings in your wheel hubs, I would just let a LBS do it though.

[MudLark]

I promise you, it's all repurposed automotive grease of one kind or another repacked and marked up.

 

I wouldn't use LM. The stuff doesn't absorb water like normal WB but causes it to gall. And it's messy. I've used plain old WB throughout and here and there Coppaslip with no issues. 

 

Whatever your bicycle components go through, it's nothing remotely like the load and stresses of an automotive wheel bearing. 

Edited March 14, 2021 by MudLark

[ChrisF]

I promise you, it's all repurposed automotive grease of one kind or another repacked and marked up.

 

I wouldn't use LM. The stuff doesn't absorb water like normal WB but causes it to gall. And it's messy. I've used plain old WB throughout and here and there Coppaslip with no issues.

 

Whatever your bicycle components go through, it's nothing remotely like the load and stresses of an automotive wheel bearing.

Coppa slip where you dont want threads to sieze up.

 

Blue locktight where threads should not come undone ....

 

 

Waterproof grease (bought a tub from my bike shop) for the bearings.

 

 

Note ... carbon surfaces (seat posts) require extra care ....

[DieselnDust]

Hi

 

This may be my first ever post, but I’ve been following the forum for many years.

 

Although I am an engineer, I’m somewhat of a noob when it comes to bike mechanics and the vast range of new tools and parts available.

 

I searched this forum (using Tapatalk) bit could not find any existing threads about grease, which is kinda odd. Maybe this app’s search isn’t that great...

 

But anyway, here goes.

 

What are the thoughts about general grease like WB or LM from Castrol?

 

The guys oversees (where parts available and tools are cheap and quick to get delivered to your door) use lubes like Slickoleum and Park Tool grease, bit those cost more than a nice bottle of Irish Whiskey.

 

I particularly want to know how these cheap lubes will perform in

Headset

Hubs

SPD

 

I have not and don’t know how to open up the freehub, so I won’t even dare ask how to lube it.

 

 

 

for areas where you are fitting pars that will see a lot of water and sweat, lithium based grease is best

For wheels bearings and bb bearings, its not so critical what soap the grease is but rather its viscosity. A  NLGI 0 or 1 grease is best here.

When it comes to the suspension components its bit more complicated because the greases use by each fork manufacturer is designed to work with the seals they've selected. Often these seals are silicone based rubber to reduce friction so silicone based greases work well. They are also highly water repellent.

I don't know of any company in the bike industry that makes grease or lubricating oil specifically for the bicycle industry. Its all rebranded and repackaged products from the big oil co's so you can get away buying generics.

With suspension damping fluids one has to be careful to get the right oils if you value consistency of feel from your suspension as the viscosity classification used by the bike industry will use terms like 5wt whilst that ols that fall into the ISO viscosity range of 3-6cSt would satisfy the requirement of the SAE range. Best to not fiddle here with products unless you understand how to read the oils performance information to compare products effectively

[MudLark]

Just one rider to Diesel's post. Be wary of lithium greases in any application where water can get in but does not get out so easily. Lithium greases do not absorb water, so the water galls and can cause corrosion if it does not easily dry out. Soap greases absorb the water. But frankly, a bicycle is not exactly a terribly complex or highly stressed piece of machinery and most wear components are readily replaceable. Whatever you lubricant use, other factors will likely predominant in determining the useable lifespan of the bicycle. IMHO, YMMV.

Edited March 27, 2021 by MudLark

[DieselnDust]

Just one rider to Diesel's post. Be wary of lithium greases in any application where water can get in but does not get out so easily. Lithium greases do not absorb water, so the water galls and can cause corrosion if it does not easily dry out. Soap greases absorb the water. But frankly, a bicycle is not exactly a terribly complex or highly stressed piece of machinery and most wear components are readily replaceable. Whatever you lubricant use, other factors will likely predominant in determining the useable lifespan of the bicycle. IMHO, YMMV.

 

 

excellent point.

 

You will want to consider Sodium soap greases in such a situation. BUT....the oxidation resistance is poor compared with Lithium and lithium complex so maintenance must be performed more often and religiously. Normally this is only in some carbon BB shells. 

I drilled a small 2mm drainage hole in my bb shell with the blessing of the distributor

Edited March 27, 2021 by DieselnDust

[MudLark]

excellent point.

 

You will want to consider Sodium soap greases in such a situation. BUT....the oxidation resistance is poor compared with Lithium and lithium complex so maintenance must be performed more often and religiously. Normally this is only in some carbon BB shells. 

I drilled a small 2mm drainage hole in my bb shell with the blessing of the distributor

 

 

Interesting. Looking on the underside of my Trek Top Fuel (2018) I see there is a drainage hole in the bottom. Factory done. But not in my Trek Emonda road bike. 

 

I learned the lithium lesson with off-road winches. Water gets in but not out. With lithium you end up bad corrosion. And its messy and unpleasant to work with. I prefer sodium but as you say... maintenance.