Sloth1987 Posted April 25, 2023 Share Its the 2018 model Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sloth1987 Posted April 25, 2023 Share 1 hour ago, droo said: I did this to the offending frames, no difference. Worth a shot though, since it's way cheaper than rebuilding a bike. Any advice different from the general advice given is worth a shot. I think Meezo is setting me up on the right track. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sloth1987 Posted April 25, 2023 Share 3 hours ago, 117 said: Meezo, I think, has the better solution above. Face the frame posts a little, maybe give it a gentle file with an emery board or (not so coarse) file to ensure the face is flush with the caliper mounting faces - also remove any paint residue/powder coating on the caliper faces/frame faces to ensure a cleaner mate of the two surfaces. Dont take too much off as it'll change the angle of the caliper to the rotation of the disc. Also, put a little drop of thread lock on the caliper bolts, and torque to correct spec Sound advice. Much appreciated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jono Posted April 25, 2023 Share 6 hours ago, Sloth1987 said: After reading through old posts, none of them provide a solution for my problem with my Silverback MTB Just to clarify I have already done the following: Replaced pads twice. Changed rotors 3 times and they run perfectly true Changed caliper twice Caliper is aligned in the centre of the disc. Brakes are bled properly No pad rub/drag Proper bed in procedure followed The rear of the bike vibrates and sounds like a horn when applying brakes at any speed. Out of solutions. Is it possibly a frame issue? When you say changed rotors, have you tried different types/brands? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sloth1987 Posted April 25, 2023 Share 8 minutes ago, Jono said: When you say changed rotors, have you tried different types/brands? Yeah. Different brands. Same sizes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jono Posted April 25, 2023 Share Just now, Sloth1987 said: Yeah. Different brands. Same sizes 👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
splat Posted April 25, 2023 Share 3 hours ago, dasilvarsa said: Try to borrow a Wheel. I was going to blame the bearings in the rear hub. Mine were cup and cone type and were slightly loose. A bit more attention on the preload sorted that out. But this was back in the days of 26" wheels are QR skewers... Mtree 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasilvarsa Posted April 26, 2023 Share 11 hours ago, splat said: I was going to blame the bearings in the rear hub. Mine were cup and cone type and were slightly loose. A bit more attention on the preload sorted that out. But this was back in the days of 26" wheels are QR skewers... Cup and Cone is Still Widely Used Today on 29er Wheels Mtree, splat and Mook 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piernas Flacas Posted April 26, 2023 Share Have had this issue since you got the bike or only recently? I have a 2013 Silverback Slade 2 and recently I've been also experiencing a shudder on the rear brake but not all the time. I have Shimano SLX (about 2 years old) with the original Deore rotors. Pads are Jagwire (3 months old), which in the past never gave a problem. The hub is original cup and cone Deore which I think it could be the problem due to age. dasilvarsa and Dusty 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Ouzo Posted April 26, 2023 Share maybe I'm stating the obvious, but do you bed in the brakes when you change pads and or rotors? dasilvarsa 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newbie321 Posted April 26, 2023 Share Those sola 1 frames are just very susceptible from my experience. As others have stated here, different rotors, brakes etc doesn't matter. One thing I do remember is that the silverback employee that did the warranty claim for me, put some small weights on the chain stays which apparently helped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
117 Posted April 26, 2023 Share That makes no sense to add weights to dampen a vibration or frequency on the frame. You'd have to put a fair amount as a thumb suck, or dial it in specifically and be super accurate on the weight and position. Excitor beam 1 0 1 How much did he add? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newbie321 Posted April 26, 2023 Share 14 minutes ago, 117 said: That makes no sense to add weights to dampen a vibration or frequency on the frame. You'd have to put a fair amount as a thumb suck, or dial it in specifically and be super accurate on the weight and position. Excitor beam 1 0 1 How much did he add? Your guess is as good as mine. That's what he said, but he did say a lot of things that never turned out true Edited April 26, 2023 by Newbie321 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
117 Posted April 26, 2023 Share 1 minute ago, Newbie321 said: Your guess is as good as mine. That's what he said, but he did say a lot of things that never turned out true Then I'd hazard a guess he was trying to bullsh!t you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dicky DQ Posted April 26, 2023 Share Rear brakes should not be use so hard. Lay off the power and you don't have to do anything. Use the front brakes as you are supposed to. dasilvarsa and Mtree 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasilvarsa Posted April 27, 2023 Share 12 hours ago, Dicky DQ said: Rear brakes should not be use so hard. Lay off the power and you don't have to do anything. Use the front brakes as you are supposed to. Specially When Cornering at high speed on loose over hard. vanniri 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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