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Seized bottle cage bolt


Velouria
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I have a mate who discovered his bottle cage bolt has seized, and he can't get it out (it is not stripped - just extremely tight).

 

He found the following adive on the net :

 

If the bolt

_not_ stainless, you might be able to build a dam out of wax and

dissolve

the bolt with nitic acid.  This is not a procedure for the faint of

 

heart or unsteady hands.  HNO3 is bad stuff - but it won't attack

aluminium.

It _will_ attack lots of other things, including flesh.

 

But he is hoping not to try that approach - any other suggestions.

 

I suggested drilling the bolt out - but that sounds risky too...

 

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or try a drop of oil...let it stand overnight so it can go in,

on the drilling, what you do is you just drill the head off... so the cage will come off and you can just unscrew the rest...best is to have it done by an engineer.

 

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Actually, try Q10, NOT Q20...I once mistakenly bought Q10 (thinking it's Q20)...I could be mistaken, but Q20 is a moisture repellent (we used it on the rifles during my national service). My 2c Wink

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If you drill the head of you drill a centre hole go to ur local hardware store and get a little thing called easy-out that goes into your little drilled hole to take it out . Failing that drill the hole through the bolt , take ur welding machine and weld a T-piece on . Wait don't weld the bloody thing into the hole , tack it . Welding will seriously damage you frame . If you don't know how to weld but can drill a straight hole , drill a hole as bit as possible and then use a self-tapping screw top remove the rest of the bolt . There are many ways to kill a cat and still make it look like an accident .

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How does he know he can't undo it if he hasn't stripped the hex hole in the bolt yet?  If you've decided to use acid, drilling, or anything else that destroys the bolt, you might as well put a long lever onto your allen key (piece of pipe that fits snugly over allen key will do) and turn until it comes out or is stripped.

 

Fatty's right about Q10 - it's a penetrating oil that's meant for freeing seized parts.  It needs time to work, though, so you should spray some as close to the threads as you can get and let it soak in.  Repeat the next day, for a few days.

 

Cervelo, if the threaded part of the bolt has corroded (and bonded with the threads of the frame), it might not turn out when the head of the bolt is removed.  If it comes to destroying the bolt, though, I agree that it would make sense to try removing the head first (hacksaw, drill, grind, file) and see if the threaded bit then comes out.

 

If you end up damaging the threads in the frame, it might be possible to replace the threaded inserts.  Bowman Cycles in Cape Town replaced them on a Battaglin aluminium frame I have, using a Cannondale tool.  It seems to insert a sort of threaded rivet into the frame.  Cost was not high (less than R100).

 

Good luck.
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Also, try to tighten the bolt first - anything to just get it moving.

 

If you have an engineering shop drill it out, tell them to tap a new thread for you, and use an oversized bolt, as they usually drill the thread away.
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He must not do anything rash. Stay away form the acid!!!!!!

The lug is a special "pop" rivet with a thread and is installed by a traditional pop rivet tool through a larger hole drilled in the frame tubing. The rivet is also made of aluminium and the threads will seize due to the galvanic action between steel and aluminium. The same will happen to your seatpost and head tubes if left unattended for too long. The cold and clammy weather you guys have in Slaapstad will ensure the action happens faster.  Always place some grease on these bolts before installing to retard the galvanic action taking place. Check these bolts (and your seatpost) frequantly. Remember Carbon Fibre seatposts uses different anti seize compounds.

 

Try using any of the penetrating oils on the market. Things like Q10 or WD40 will work. Use it in copious amounts and even spray some into the frame and tilt the frame so the oil flows to the inside. Place a lappie over the lug and saturate it with the penetrating oil. Leave overnight or untill you can loosen the nut.

 

If this does not work the only way out would be to drill a small hole through the bolt as a guide and then very carefully drill the bolt out with a larger drill. He mat damage the lug in the process but the hole drilled in the frame tubing is larger than the bolt.

 

In his effort to remove the bolt the lug might work loose as it is only held by friction. If this happens he will most likely have to scrap the lug and have it replaced. Any reputable bikesmith or framebuilder (Francois Du Toit in Slaapstad or the guys at Produx)) should be able to replace the lug.

 
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DR gan vra jou geld terug wat jy op skool betaal het..... jy is verkeerd geleer. Geen welding naby die frame nie..... dit sal die "temper" van die heat treating verwoes en jy sal net 'n baie slegte smaak in jou mond kry as die frame daar breek. 'Dit mag dalk die laaste ding wees wat jy proe!!!!!!!

 

'n "Easy out" tool met 'n REVERSE thread kan gebruik word maar die rivet met die thread in sal begin gly lank voor die tyd.
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Dit is duidelik vir my oompie dat jy biekie sukkel met die Arc Welder !!! Ek het seker al meer goeters aanmekaar geweld as wat jy Km paaie gebou het . Daar is 'n klein verskil tussen a weld en 'n tack . Ek tack vir jou hout balke aanmekaar as ek die dag op drewe is !

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Dit is duidelik vir my oompie dat jy biekie sukkel met die Arc Welder !!! Ek het seker al meer goeters aanmekaar geweld as wat jy Km paaie gebou het . Daar is 'n klein verskil tussen a weld en 'n tack . Ek tack vir jou hout balke aanmekaar as ek die dag op drewe is !

 

LOLLOL
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Popeye dit was nie die coke nie maar die KLIPDRIF met EISH wat die nut losgeskrik het!!!!!!

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Jy kan Velouria se pel se bike maar sweis maar jy kom nie naby my goetters met jou sweismasjien nie!!!!!!!!

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smiley36.gif Sien jy nou dis hoekom die volk so sukkel , niemand vertrou mekaar nie !!! ag nee man vra vir die MTB duddies , ek is baie betroubaar en versigtig .
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