Regard Posted May 4, 2010 Share I did mine with a loose valve and insulation tape. Thats it. Take the insulation tape twice around the rim. Force the valve through the tape (it will fit quite snugly). Put some sealant at the valve base. Put on tyres' date=' put in sealant and bobs your uncle. No rim tape needed. The valve is the most expensive part at about R70. [/quote'] Yip, did mine the same way!! Works like a bomb and last for ever! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_im_from_earth Posted May 4, 2010 Share well your "average" MTB rim is not really designed to be run tubeless. Stans, with their rubber rim strips make the conversion possible by doing the following: 1.) Creating an air-tight seal between the tire/ rim strip2.) Increasing the overall inside diameter of the rim due to the thickness of the rubber strip3.) Increasing the friction between the tire-bead and rim lip by means of the rubber rim strip All three of the points listed above are significant in allowing a rider to convert his/ her said rim to a tubeless compatible system. Points 2 and 3 however are more than significant, they are absolutely critical in rider safety! Many riders, shops, mechanics and e-engineers seem to think it completely safe and logical to do without the rubber strip which Stans sell [for a ridiculous amount of money] and simply follow point 1 in my list above, forgetting 2 and 3. The method by which they do this varies, but the result is always the same: a wheel which may hold pressure, however a tire/ rim interface which in my opinion is by no means safe to ride. Without points 2 and 3 there is very little beside air pressure holding the tire on the rim, whats more is it seems to be commonplace to "convert" a non-UST tire in addition to the converted non-UST rim at the same time. This combination is recipe for disaster: blowing a tire [front or rear, your choice] of the rim at speed while loading the bike into a corner. Not a fun experience! If you are wanting to convert your wheels to tubeless I suggest: 1.) Forking out the cash for a Stans/ Joes kit2.) Running a dinkim UST Tire morewoodkid2010-05-04 04:30:27 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtrider Posted May 4, 2010 Share This is absolutely shocking news ! After running the DIY tubeless kits for the last 4 years and having done many,many races and rides I am yet to loose a tyre due to reasons mentioned . How does a tube solve this problem ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_im_from_earth Posted May 4, 2010 Share Well the tube holds its form, does not burp when the tire bead brakes away from the rim and increasesthe friction between the tire and the rim itself. I'm not saying the methods you guys mentioned don't work... I'm just saying IMO they aren't safe. There are way too many variables. Perhaps I'm a wet sock but I like to know my tire is going to stay on te rim when cornering hard at 40km an hour [or even at 10 for that matter]. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Posted May 4, 2010 Share @morewoodkid, you sound like a conversion kit salesman. That is absolute rubbish. points 2 and 3 that are "critical", are in fact not. My non-tubeless rim has taken a pounding, but the tyre is yet to fall off, slip off, tear or blow out. Honestly. Also, UST tyres are not required. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regard Posted May 4, 2010 Share Don't you worry to much. My highest speed ever on a mtb was at the Baberton, that was 73.9km/h and that was with black insulation tape and a valve only and I am still alive and kicking! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtb_Josh Posted May 4, 2010 Share well your "average" MTB rim is not really designed to be run tubeless. <span id="gtbmisp_0" style="font: bold 100% serif; border: 0pt none; margin: 0pt; padding: 0pt; text-align: left; text-indent: 0pt; color: red; text-decoration: underline; cursor: pointer;">Stans</span>' date=' with their rubber rim strips make the conversion possible by doing the following:1.) Creating an air-tight seal between the tire/ rim strip2.) Increasing the overall inside diameter of the rim due to the thickness of the rubber strip3.) Increasing the friction between the tire-bead and rim lip by means of the rubber rim stripAll three of the points listed above are significant in allowing a rider to convert his/ her said rim to a tubeless <span id="gtbmisp_1" style="font: bold 100% serif; border: 0pt none; margin: 0pt; padding: 0pt; text-align: left; text-indent: 0pt; color: green; text-decoration: underline; cursor: pointer;">compatible</span> system. Points 2 and 3 however are more than significant, they are absolutely <span id="gtbmisp_2" style="font: bold 100% serif; border: 0pt none; margin: 0pt; padding: 0pt; text-align: left; text-indent: 0pt; color: green; text-decoration: underline; cursor: pointer;">critical</span> in rider safety!Many riders, shops, mechanics and e-engineers seem to think it completely safe and logical to do without the rubber strip which <span id="gtbmisp_3" style="font: bold 100% serif; border: 0pt none; margin: 0pt; padding: 0pt; text-align: left; text-indent: 0pt; color: red; text-decoration: underline; cursor: pointer;">Stans</span> sell [for a <span id=gtbmisp_4" style="font: bold 100% serif; border: 0pt none; margin: 0pt; padding: 0pt; text-align: left; text-indent: 0pt; color: green; text-decoration: underline; cursor: pointer;">ridiculous</span> amount of money] and simply follow point 1 in my list above, forgetting 2 and 3. The <span id="gtbmisp_5" style="font: bold 100% serif; border: 0pt none; margin: 0pt; padding: 0pt; text-align: left; text-indent: 0pt; color: green; text-decoration: underline; cursor: pointer;">method</span> by which they do this varies, but the result is always the same: a wheel which may hold pressure, however a tire/ rim interface which in my opinion is by no means safe to ride. Without points 2 and 3 there is very <span id="gtbmisp_6" style="font: bold 100% serif; border: 0pt none; margin: 0pt; padding: 0pt; text-align: left; text-indent: 0pt; color: green; text-decoration: underline; cursor: pointer;">little</span> beside air pressure holding the tire on the rim, whats more is it seems to be <span id="gtbmisp_7" style="font: bold 100% serif; border: 0pt none; margin: 0pt; padding: 0pt; text-align: left; text-indent: 0pt; color: green; text-decoration: underline; cursor: pointer;">commonplace</span> to "convert" a non-UST tire in addition to the converted non-UST rim at the same time. This combination is recipe for disaster: blowing a tire [front or rear, your choice] of the rim at speed while loading the bike into a corner. Not a fun experience!If you are wanting to convert your wheels to tubeless I suggest:1.) Forking out the cash for a <span id="gtbmisp_8" style="font: bold 100% serif; border: 0pt none; margin: 0pt; padding: 0pt; text-align: left; text-indent: 0pt; color: red; text-decoration: underline; cursor: pointer;">Stans</span>/ <span id="gtbmisp_9" style="font: bold 100% serif; border: 0pt none; margin: 0pt; padding: 0pt; text-align: left; text-indent: 0pt; color: red; text-decoration: underline; cursor: pointer;">Joes</span> kit2.) Running a <span id="gtbmisp_10" style="font: bold 100% serif; border: 0pt none; margin: 0pt; padding: 0pt; text-align: left; text-indent: 0pt; color: red; text-decoration: underline; cursor: pointer;">dinkim</span> UST Tire How does adding rubber INCREASE the inside diameter of the rim? Surely it would decrease? And why is this necessary? As to your 3rd point - the rubber strip doesn't sit between the rim and the tyre in all the conversions (using stans strips) that I've seen...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtb_Josh Posted May 4, 2010 Share wow, that quote didnt go well... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johan Bornman Posted May 4, 2010 Share How does adding rubber INCREASE the inside diameter of the rim? Surely it would decrease? And why is this necessary? The rim is a circle. If you add a layer to the outside of a cricle, you increase its diameter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_im_from_earth Posted May 4, 2010 Share As mentioned, not saying that it wont work... just saying I don't/ haven't and never will trust, recommend or suggest it to anyone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Posted May 4, 2010 Share Sure, so putting the rubber inside the rim doesn't do anything to the diameter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtb_Josh Posted May 4, 2010 Share How does adding rubber INCREASE the inside diameter of the rim? Surely it would decrease? And why is this necessary?? ? The rim is a circle. If you add a layer to the outside of a cricle' date=' you increase its diameter. ?[/quote'] I feel like I'm probably being stupid here, but this still doesnt make sense to me? The rim strip goes on the inside.... Therefore smaller diameter on the inside? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johan Bornman Posted May 4, 2010 Share Sure' date=' so putting the rubber inside the rim doesn't do anything to the diameter.[/quote'] Have a good look at a rim. The fact that the spoke bed is inside the rim (i.e. between the two bead flanges), doesn't mean it is not a circle. You are adding rubber to the ouside of the circle (even though it is inside something). I think you're having one of those moments reminiscent of those funny pictures you had to stare at for ages (or take drugs) before you suddenly see a camel in the desert. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weight Weenie Posted May 4, 2010 Share This is why I use Stan's rims. The bead socket allows one to use a normal folding tyre and run it at very low presure without any rim strip. only tape and valve. Have a look at his site videos and try it, even with a c-clamp that tyre seals and won't burp ! Josh you can do that conversion no issues, your light and dont run super low pressures. the only way i see that being an issue is a much heavier guy with very low pressure that may burp or roll a tyre, but for most people that should hold in the ghetto way no problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_im_from_earth Posted May 4, 2010 Share ^^^ now that Sir is why I have your quote on my profile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_im_from_earth Posted May 4, 2010 Share This is why I use Stan's rims. The bead socket allows one to use a normal folding tyre and run it at very low presure without any rim strip. only tape and valve. Have a look at his site videos and try it' date=' even with a c-clamp that tyre seals and won't burp ! Josh you can do that conversion no issues, your light and dont run super low pressures. the only way i see that being an issue is a much heavier guy with very low pressure that may burp or roll a tyre, but for most people that should hold in the ghetto way no problem. [/quote'] ^^^ now that Sir is why I have your quote on my profile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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