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Tubeless help


mtb_Josh

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I did mine with a loose valve and insulation tape. Thats it.

Take the insulation tape twice around the rim. Force the valve through the tape (it will fit quite snugly). Put some sealant at the valve base. Put on tyres' date=' put in sealant and bobs your uncle. No rim tape needed. The valve is the most expensive part at about R70. [/quote']

 

 

Yip, did mine the same way!!Clap

 

Works like a bomb and last for ever!
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well your "average" MTB rim is not really designed to be run tubeless. Stans, with their rubber rim strips make the conversion possible by doing the following:

 

1.) Creating an air-tight seal between the tire/ rim strip

2.) Increasing the overall inside diameter of the rim due to the thickness of the rubber strip

3.) Increasing the friction between the tire-bead and rim lip by means of the rubber rim strip

 

All three of the points listed above are significant in allowing a rider to convert his/ her said rim to a tubeless compatible system. Points 2 and 3 however are more than significant, they are absolutely critical in rider safety!

 

Many riders, shops, mechanics and e-engineers seem to think it completely safe and logical to do without the rubber strip which Stans sell [for a ridiculous amount of money] and simply follow point 1 in my list above, forgetting 2 and 3. The method by which they do this varies, but the result is always the same: a wheel which may hold pressure, however a tire/ rim interface which in my opinion is by no means safe to ride. Without points 2 and 3 there is very little beside air pressure holding the tire on the rim, whats more is it seems to be commonplace to "convert" a non-UST tire in addition to the converted non-UST rim at the same time. This combination is recipe for disaster: blowing a tire [front or rear, your choice] of the rim at speed while loading the bike into a corner. Not a fun experience!

 

If you are wanting to convert your wheels to tubeless I suggest:

 

1.) Forking out the cash for a Stans/ Joes kit

2.) Running a dinkim UST Tire

 

 

 

morewoodkid2010-05-04 04:30:27

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This is absolutely shocking news ! After running the DIY tubeless kits for the last 4 years and having done many,many races and rides I am yet to loose a tyre due to reasons mentioned . How does a tube solve this problem ?

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Well the tube holds its form, does not burp when the tire bead brakes away from the rim and increasesthe friction between the tire and the rim itself.

 

I'm not saying the methods you guys mentioned don't work... I'm just saying IMO they aren't safe. There are way too many variables. Perhaps I'm a wet sock but I like to know my tire is going to stay on te rim when cornering hard at 40km an hour [or even at 10 for that matter].

 

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@morewoodkid, you sound like a conversion kit salesman. That is absolute rubbish. points 2 and 3 that are "critical", are in fact not.

 

My non-tubeless rim has taken a pounding, but the tyre is yet to fall off, slip off, tear or blow out.

 

Honestly.

 

Also, UST tyres are not required.

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Don't you worry to much.

 

My highest speed ever on a mtb was at the Baberton, that was 73.9km/h and that was with black insulation tape and a valve only and I am still alive and kicking!
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well your "average" MTB rim is not really designed to be run tubeless. <span id="gtbmisp_0" style="font: bold 100% serif; border: 0pt none; margin: 0pt; padding: 0pt; text-align: left; text-indent: 0pt; color: red; text-decoration: underline; cursor: pointer;">Stans</span>' date=' with their rubber rim strips make the conversion possible by doing the following:1.) Creating an air-tight seal between the tire/ rim strip2.) Increasing the overall inside diameter of the rim due to the thickness of the rubber strip3.) Increasing the friction between the tire-bead and rim lip by means of the rubber rim stripAll three of the points listed above are significant in allowing a rider to convert his/ her said rim to a tubeless <span id="gtbmisp_1" style="font: bold 100% serif; border: 0pt none; margin: 0pt; padding: 0pt; text-align: left; text-indent: 0pt; color: green; text-decoration: underline; cursor: pointer;">compatible</span> system. Points 2 and 3 however are more than significant, they are absolutely <span id="gtbmisp_2" style="font: bold 100% serif; border: 0pt none; margin: 0pt; padding: 0pt; text-align: left; text-indent: 0pt; color: green; text-decoration: underline; cursor: pointer;">critical</span> in rider safety!Many riders, shops, mechanics and e-engineers seem to think it completely safe and logical to do without the rubber strip which <span id="gtbmisp_3" style="font: bold 100% serif; border: 0pt none; margin: 0pt; padding: 0pt; text-align: left; text-indent: 0pt; color: red; text-decoration: underline; cursor: pointer;">Stans</span> sell [for a <span id=gtbmisp_4" style="font: bold 100% serif; border: 0pt none; margin: 0pt; padding: 0pt; text-align: left; text-indent: 0pt; color: green; text-decoration: underline; cursor: pointer;">ridiculous</span> amount of money] and simply follow point 1 in my list above, forgetting 2 and 3. The <span id="gtbmisp_5" style="font: bold 100% serif; border: 0pt none; margin: 0pt; padding: 0pt; text-align: left; text-indent: 0pt; color: green; text-decoration: underline; cursor: pointer;">method</span> by which they do this varies, but the result is always the same: a wheel which may hold pressure, however a tire/ rim interface which in my opinion is by no means safe to ride. Without points 2 and 3 there is very <span id="gtbmisp_6" style="font: bold 100% serif; border: 0pt none; margin: 0pt; padding: 0pt; text-align: left; text-indent: 0pt; color: green; text-decoration: underline; cursor: pointer;">little</span> beside air pressure holding the tire on the rim, whats more is it seems to be <span id="gtbmisp_7" style="font: bold 100% serif; border: 0pt none; margin: 0pt; padding: 0pt; text-align: left; text-indent: 0pt; color: green; text-decoration: underline; cursor: pointer;">commonplace</span> to "convert" a non-UST tire in addition to the converted non-UST rim at the same time. This combination is recipe for disaster: blowing a tire [front or rear, your choice] of the rim at speed while loading the bike into a corner. Not a fun experience!If you are wanting to convert your wheels to tubeless I suggest:1.) Forking out the cash for a <span id="gtbmisp_8" style="font: bold 100% serif; border: 0pt none; margin: 0pt; padding: 0pt; text-align: left; text-indent: 0pt; color: red; text-decoration: underline; cursor: pointer;">Stans</span>/ <span id="gtbmisp_9" style="font: bold 100% serif; border: 0pt none; margin: 0pt; padding: 0pt; text-align: left; text-indent: 0pt; color: red; text-decoration: underline; cursor: pointer;">Joes</span> kit2.) Running a <span id="gtbmisp_10" style="font: bold 100% serif; border: 0pt none; margin: 0pt; padding: 0pt; text-align: left; text-indent: 0pt; color: red; text-decoration: underline; cursor: pointer;">dinkim</span> UST Tire

 

 

 

 

How does adding rubber INCREASE the inside diameter of the rim? Surely it would decrease? And why is this necessary?

 

 

 

As to your 3rd point - the rubber strip doesn't sit between the rim and the tyre in all the conversions (using stans strips) that I've seen...?

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How does adding rubber INCREASE the inside diameter of the rim? Surely it would decrease? And why is this necessary? 

 

The rim is a circle. If you add a layer to the outside of a cricle, you increase its diameter.

 
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As mentioned, not saying that it wont work... just saying I don't/ haven't and never will trust, recommend or suggest it to anyone.

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Sure, so putting the rubber inside the rim doesn't do anything to the diameter.

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How does adding rubber INCREASE the inside diameter of the rim? Surely it would decrease? And why is this necessary??

 

?

 

The rim is a circle. If you add a layer to the outside of a cricle' date=' you increase its diameter.

 

?
[/quote']

 

 

 

I feel like I'm probably being stupid here, but this still doesnt make sense to me? The rim strip goes on the inside.... Therefore smaller diameter on the inside?

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Sure' date=' so putting the rubber inside the rim doesn't do anything to the diameter.[/quote']

 

Have a good look at a rim. The fact that the spoke bed is inside the rim (i.e. between the two bead flanges), doesn't mean it is not a circle. You are adding rubber to the ouside of the circle (even though it is inside something).  I think you're having one of those moments reminiscent of those funny pictures you had to stare at for ages (or take drugs) before you suddenly see a camel in the desert.

 

 
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This is why I use Stan's rims.  The bead socket allows one to use a normal folding tyre and run it at very low presure without any rim strip. only tape and valve.  Have a look at his site videos and try it, even with a c-clamp that tyre seals and won't burp !

 

Josh you can do that conversion no issues, your light and dont run super low pressures.  the only way i see that being an issue is a much heavier guy with very low pressure that may burp or roll a tyre, but for most people that should hold in the ghetto way no problem. 
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This is why I use Stan's rims.  The bead socket allows one to use a normal folding tyre and run it at very low presure without any rim strip. only tape and valve.  Have a look at his site videos and try it' date=' even with a c-clamp that tyre seals and won't burp !

 

Josh you can do that conversion no issues, your light and dont run super low pressures.  the only way i see that being an issue is a much heavier guy with very low pressure that may burp or roll a tyre, but for most people that should hold in the ghetto way no problem. 
[/quote']

 

^^^ now that Sir is why I have your quote on my profile ;)

 

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