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Tubeless help


mtb_Josh
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I need to replace the tubeless setup on my front wheel and I really dont want to pay the ridiculous price of a stans strip. I have the old american classic wheels with racing ralph evos (non ust).

 

 

 

My question is; would a loose valve like this http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=38827 and some insulation tape work?

 

 

 

Before anyone suggests a 20inch tube - I've been looking (in pta) and cant find 20inch tubes with presta valves anywhere (dont want to drill my rims for schraeder)

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Just get a good rimtape with a layer or two of insulation tape over that. Then just cut out the valve of an old tube and use that.
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Well the true story is that I bought the wheelset a year ago with tyres, seller said it was set up as tubeless so I believed him. I took the rear wheel off for another reason and it was tubeless so I assumed front was also. Tried to change tyres the other day and surprise surprise! Tube in the front! Good thing I run a high pressure otherwise I could've had a snakebite on my 'tubeless' setup.

 

 

 

I dont have any old tubes with presta valves, I tried 2 lbs and neither had any old tubes with presta and I'm not really keen to cut up a working tube. The stans valve stem costs almost the same as a tube anyway, so I may as well use it if it will work?

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have you tired fritz pinnar in hatfield, they are pretty big into their BMX stuff or so i've herd, just dont waste your time trying any of the bicycle stores here in the north, have tried montana cycles, karsten cycles, and one or 2 others. otherwise you could just ask them to order in, i know kenda makes 20" tubes with presta seen them on CRC.

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Yip - 1st place I tried, they dont even have presta in 20inch, nevermind with a removable core. They also tried to find an old tube with a presta valve but couldn't find anything smiley13.gif

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Hi Mate listen to Procrates he is 100% CORRECT ,JUST OVERLAP BY THE VALVE WITH THE RIM TAPE AND THEN THE INSULATION TAPE.THEN MAKE A NEAT HOLE FOR THE VALVE THROUGH TAPEjUST USE AN OLD PRESTA VALVE ,WORKS BETTER IF YOU CAN REMOVE THE INNER SECTION OF THE VLVE TO CLEAN AS THEY GET CLOGGED UP. IF ITS A NON UST TYRE WIPE OUT THE TYRE WITH METHS TO REMOVE THE RELEASE AGENT FROM THE INSIDE OF THE TYRE ( THIS IS TRANSFERRED FROM WHEN THE TYRE WAS MADE)YOU NEED THE STANS SEALANT TO COAT THE INSIDE OF A NON UST TYRE AS OPPOSED TO MERELY FIX PUNCTURES.THERE IS NO REASON WHY A TUBELESS CONVERSION SHOULD COST MORE THAN R75-00 EXCLUDING THE STANS SEALANT WHICH IS AROUND R150-00.THE OTHER PROBLEM WITH RUBBER STRIPS IS THEY OFTEN CAUSE A HOP IN THE WHEEL,AND CHANGING TYRES IS A REAL BITCH. HAVE FUN- R3SL.PS NON UST TYRES YOU NORMALLY NEED TO HIT WITH A BOMB AS OPPOSED TO BATTLING WITH A FLOOR PUMP.THEN SPIN THE WHEEL LIKE MAD.

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Thanks R3SL, I think thats what I'm going to try. The tyres have been used with stans before so they should be alright. I plan to go use the pump at the garage up the road, I think that should work to get the tyre seated?

 

 

 

When I took the tubeless setup off the back wheel I realised that if I had to stick a tube in on the trail I would've had one hell of a time! The old tubeless ready tyres refused to come off! But the non-ust tyres are much easier!

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ja josh as I said on those rims any form of 'tubeless' is a biatch !

 

They are spot on with the wiping, but I disagree about inflation, the co2 may make the sealant coagulate(a word you should know ;) ) and the compressor has almost made me def a few times with very bruised hands and stans all over.  I feel this is only needed with ust bead that must pop into place well. 

Tape the rim up and get the valve in and tyre on, then first remove the core of the valve then pump it with a floor pump, the normal bead should seat easily.

 

Put the valve in, it should hold air for a bit. Then deflate slowly after taking valve out again, as not to release the bead. 

 

Add sealant through the valve hole(I can give you a applicator bottle to get the right amount in and do shake the sealant.) as its easier than taking the bead off again IMO. 

 

Put valve in and inflate, shake around and lie on each sidewall for a while, try the soapy water to look for leaks.  Take it for a spin and in a ride or so all leaks should seal up, may lose some air over night just keep topping up.

 

Would also say put more in initially to help seal sidewalls at first.  You could try paintin the sidewalls with stans beforehand to seal them, seams to work with super sonic tyres which leak allot.  Evo may be similiar ?

 

Hope that helps
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24" will also do fine. The rim tube function is only to seal any holes in the rim and one take a smaller size to make it fit nice and snug.

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Thanks guys. Will try when I have some time (just need to put in a few hundred hours of studying this week smiley19.gif )

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I did mine with a loose valve and insulation tape. Thats it.

 

 

 

Take the insulation tape twice around the rim. Force the valve through the tape (it will fit quite snugly). Put some sealant at the valve base. Put on tyres, put in sealant and bobs your uncle. No rim tape needed. The valve is the most expensive part at about R70.

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