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Very stiff Dura ACe 10spd front derailler


Reg Lizard
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My DA front derailler is very stiff. What can I do so that it changes more smoothly? I've already replaced the inner cable and this seemed to help a bit. Also sprayed the entire derailler with sillicon spray, no improvement. I have a Sora front derailler on my IDT bike which shifts much easier than the DA one. :unsure: Any advice?

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Replace the outer housing aswell. Does not help the inner is new and it rubs against the steel inside the housing.

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Are you running full DA.

 

I had a similar problem, until i changed my crank and chain to the 7900. I also have a excellent bike mechanic.

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Check the cable routing. If it goes around any sharp bends it's likely to be stiff.

 

Check how the derailleur moves without the chain on. It it's still stiff, at least you know it's not related to the chain or crank.

 

Disconnect the FD cable and pull on the end lightly by hand while using the shift lever to change gear. When you downshift you should be able to pull the cable out a bit without much effort.

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You dont have to loosen your cable, put your FD in the smal chain ring, then pull gently with your hand the FD towards the big chain ring. That will release enough tension for you to un-hook the outercasings out where it stops on the frame where the bare cable starts.

 

Once unhooked, slide it down the cable and whipe the cable with meths a few times. Once dry, take Mr.Min, spray the cable and slide the outer back in position, and hooking it back in the frame same way as you un-hooked it.

 

(reason for Mr.Min...Its got teflon in it, so it lubes it without getting sticky) (TRADE SECRET) :D

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My guess is this. The front jockey is set up incorrectly. I think the travel screws are set incorrectly, so when the jockey is on the lower chainring, it is kept in place by tension in the cable, and not by the travel screws. I suggest loosening the cable, then setting the travel screws first and foremost. Once that is done, redo the cable. End of the story is that you will now shift with a cable that is not already under tension. A friend of mine's STI's actually broke because of this.

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My guess is this. The front jockey is set up incorrectly. I think the travel screws are set incorrectly, so when the jockey is on the lower chainring, it is kept in place by tension in the cable, and not by the travel screws. I suggest loosening the cable, then setting the travel screws first and foremost. Once that is done, redo the cable. End of the story is that you will now shift with a cable that is not already under tension. A friend of mine's STI's actually broke because of this.

Thanks for all the replies, what is meant by the travel screws are setup incorrectly- are those the guides under the frame you are talking about? :unsure: Maybe draw me a pic ;) it says more than a 1000 words :D

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Switch th SRAM Red B)

Don't think Andy Schleck would agree with you on moving from Dura Ace to SRAM Redfaced??!!
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@Mavro. What does chain or crank have to do with a deraileur not working properly?

 

@Reg Lizard. You are talking about the cable guide. It might be dirty but it is not the limiter screws that Azonic is talking about. Those screws are on the deraileur. One stops the changers from going too far in and drop the chain on the inside and the other stops it from going too far out. When the chain is on the smallest chainring there should be no tension or very little on the cable as the limiter screws dows all the work there.

 

http://bicycletutor.com/adjust-front-derailer/

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@Mavro. What does chain or crank have to do with a deraileur not working properly?

 

@Reg Lizard. You are talking about the cable guide. It might be dirty but it is not the limiter screws that Azonic is talking about. Those screws are on the deraileur. One stops the changers from going too far in and drop the chain on the inside and the other stops it from going too far out. When the chain is on the smallest chainring there should be no tension or very little on the cable as the limiter screws dows all the work there.

 

http://bicycletutor.com/adjust-front-derailer/

 

Thanks Mampara I will go and check this and report back :)

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i find alot of times when the FD becomes 'stiffer' , its actually the cable routing housing under the BB, usually gets all the dirt & muck..clean it and lube it :)

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i find alot of times when the FD becomes 'stiffer' , its actually the cable routing housing under the BB, usually gets all the dirt & muck..clean it and lube it :)

Done that already and inserted new inner cable, no difference. Going to go through the whole setup thing tonight and see whether it isn't that!!!

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Is it maybe just the fd spring itself being really tight compared to the other fd you have?

 

I upgraded my fd and rd a short while back (ok, all 105, but a lot newer than the 600 stuff it replaced!) and noticed before I even put it on that the fd spring was pretty darn stiff compared to the old one. Upshifts just needed a little extra grunt to get onto the big chain ring so no big deal or anything, but it made quite a difference when downshifting. I get a little nervous sometimes when I hear this serious "KA-KLUCK" (no comments, please) when I hit the small lever on the left STI. Had nothing to do with the cables or anything, the spring is just set really tight. Don't know if this is normal - any ideas anyone?

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Is it maybe just the fd spring itself being really tight compared to the other fd you have?

 

I upgraded my fd and rd a short while back (ok, all 105, but a lot newer than the 600 stuff it replaced!) and noticed before I even put it on that the fd spring was pretty darn stiff compared to the old one. Upshifts just needed a little extra grunt to get onto the big chain ring so no big deal or anything, but it made quite a difference when downshifting. I get a little nervous sometimes when I hear this serious "KA-KLUCK" (no comments, please) when I hit the small lever on the left STI. Had nothing to do with the cables or anything, the spring is just set really tight. Don't know if this is normal - any ideas anyone?

Hey are you implying that I don't shift to the big blade enough :huh: :lol:

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haha, yeah just remove the 39t completely and ride everywhere on the big blade - problem solved! B)

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