covie Posted December 3, 2010 Posted December 3, 2010 Gents and the occasional ladies, I dont want to start a carbon vs alu vs titanium debate, that has been done to death, my bike simply needs to go on a diet and i have an inherent distrust in carbon. (not based on fact but rather my own opinions) so to get a better idea if my opinions are well founded or a distinct case of uneducated paranoia.
bikemonster Posted December 3, 2010 Posted December 3, 2010 Bah! Voted and then saw you were being all dirtist. Sorry, didn't mean to mess up your poll so early on.
RodTi Posted December 3, 2010 Posted December 3, 2010 Bah! Voted and then saw you were being all dirtist. Sorry, didn't mean to mess up your poll so early on. Think you can delete your vote? Damn anti-dirtists!!
covie Posted December 3, 2010 Author Posted December 3, 2010 Would expect less form you matey though speak english that makes no sense to my friday brain.
AndreZA Posted December 3, 2010 Posted December 3, 2010 Carbon is not always lighter. If you want light and strong carbon it will cost you more then double of it's alu counterpart.
covie Posted December 3, 2010 Author Posted December 3, 2010 oooh now i get it can i turn the sign to point to me?
Andyr249 Posted December 3, 2010 Posted December 3, 2010 I have not had anything break on my two bikes (one is full carbon with carbon seatpost, saddle rails, cranks) and other is aluminium but with carbon seatpost. The aluminium one has been in two bad crashes and no damage to the carbon seatpost. I think that carbon doesn't break easily but when it does break, it really does. You should be more than fine with the carbon stuff.
Weight Weenie Posted December 3, 2010 Posted December 3, 2010 To expand on what Mamparra said : KCNC stuff is really light for the price and its alu, but people have had failure issues with the parts.The standard carbon stuff ie. ritchey is mostly the same weight or even a few grams heavier than that but at a much higher price. Problem is lot of the so-called carbon stuff is alu with a carbon weave overlay, which ends up being heavy but looks bling.Only really light carbon stuff I've found is the likes of Schmolke etc. but its very expensive, scarce and weight limits are an issue to most.
bikemonster Posted December 3, 2010 Posted December 3, 2010 Think you can delete your vote? Damn anti-dirtists!! So you can! So I did. Dang anti tarrists!
vanniri Posted December 3, 2010 Posted December 3, 2010 I broke both a seatpost and the pedal insert on the crank started to loosen. Both lasted in excess of 1,5 years. Both my mistake:Seatpost - did not use a torque wrench and pretty sure I overtighten it.Crank - rode with an old/worn pedal resulting in continous slipping, i.e. pure abuse. I will buy carbon parts/frame anytime in future, no problem Bottom line: carbon failure tend to be more spectacular than alu/steel/ti - accept it.hightec materials (carbon and ti) requires more building skill than less hightec materials (steel) - accept to pay more. Alu might be a good middle-of-the-road option
DawieO Posted December 3, 2010 Posted December 3, 2010 Voted for the cranks, but to be completely fair I have also broken Alu ones. Also have broken a carbon MTB frame, but again, also broke alu rear triangle. My All-metal Zula (nice pimp build...) is lighgter than my all-tupperware Genius Ltd. And it also cost WAAAAY less.
El Saltemontes Posted December 3, 2010 Posted December 3, 2010 I have had two carbon GT Marathon team frames, one cracked next to the seat post (replaced under warantee)and the other,broke in an accident on the spruit, (someone decided to endo head first into my lap and broke the whole frame in half) I also had a carbon/ alu.ritchey stem break and that was a nightmare as I had to walk back.However I still ride with carbon seat post and handlebars. and I have an old OCLV trek which comes out once a year for the 94.7.My point is, if you get a carbon frame buy new with warantee.I wouldn't use another carbon stem on a mtb as I think with pulling, pushing,hitting the deck, etc. they get bashed about and fail when you least expect them to.Seat posts and bars are fine but as someone else said, not always lighter.
ti guy Posted December 3, 2010 Posted December 3, 2010 If you are looking for REAL quality carbon parts, try the following link. I do not think any parts come any lighter and the manufacturer has an untouchable reputation in the industry. Be aware however, some parts do have a weight limit! http://www.ax-lightness.de I'm the SA agent for the parts. Drop me a line if anyone is interested.
MeridaV Posted December 3, 2010 Posted December 3, 2010 If you distrust carbon, get light alu parts - you can shave kilos off your bike by picking the correct alloy parts. We had a disagreement about carbon frames before, so I guess that is why you are not including frames in your poll, but for my money - my carbon frame has been a joy from day one and no worries about failures. One of my riding partners has been racing and training on a Scott Scale Ltd for more than 15000km without a sign of frame trouble.
Palaeodom Posted December 3, 2010 Posted December 3, 2010 i have a ritchy carbon seatpost but it doesn't have any torque guide on it. What is the torque guide for the saddle attachment and the seat post clamp?
covie Posted December 3, 2010 Author Posted December 3, 2010 i have a ritchy carbon seatpost but it doesn't have any torque guide on it. What is the torque guide for the saddle attachment and the seat post clamp? When you hear ccrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrk then you know that was too much
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