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Chain rotation on MTB - any tips or tricks?


sage

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Hello all,

 

Did a search but didn't get anything definitive on this, so thought to open this question...

 

I'm wanting to rotate chains through my mtb, using powerlinks makes taking them off pretty easy.

 

I've heard that 3 chains is the way to go: one chain on the bike, one chain in the degreaser, one chain hanging up to dry ready for lube.

Seems this way one can seriously increase the life and performance of one's powertrain.. :thumbup:

 

Any experience out there on this?

What is the best system - what degreaser is best, and what containers etc makes one's life easiest?

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I use Kleen Green, hot water and an old marg tub. Add a chain, mix together, wait 30 min, give a good shake shake, rinse repeatedly, hang up, dry and drizzle the chain with the lube of your choice...I will be trying the two chain method in the new year when I replace all the drivetrain parts.

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Ever had any issues with corrosion while drying?

 

Where do you hang the chain to dry - inside somewhere?

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I don't know much about the chain manufacturing process, but this does not sound right (at least not for all the parts of the chain) The rollers are exposed to lots of wear, thus a 10 micron nickel plating would not last. However, the little bit of surface rust that I sometimes get on my chain is perfecly harmless. Nothing to worry about.

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Just give the chain a good shake and hang the chain up to dry in the sun or sometimes I just leave it overnight looped over the door handle (causes domestic arguments!). Beofre I put it back on the bike I give it a good wipedown with an old rag/towel. No rust, I use a SRAM 971 chain.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Ok, I'm trying this with old Coke bottles and some paraffin as the first step - I'm finding that I need to get a lot of gunk and stuff off the chain after even a hard ride..thw wire needs to be long enough to stop one losing the chain during shaking the bottle..

 

post-7999-0-57230600-1294142314.jpg

post-7999-0-38572200-1294142336.jpg

 

Then some Kleen Green (or other good grease-stripping detergent would do I guess) to wash, followed with good rinsing.

 

Have to hang the chains to dry - wish there was a quick way to get this done, anyone have good ideas to speed this up?

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Hello all,

 

Did a search but didn't get anything definitive on this, so thought to open this question...

 

I'm wanting to rotate chains through my mtb, using powerlinks makes taking them off pretty easy.

 

I've heard that 3 chains is the way to go: one chain on the bike, one chain in the degreaser, one chain hanging up to dry ready for lube.

Seems this way one can seriously increase the life and performance of one's powertrain.. :thumbup:

 

Any experience out there on this?

What is the best system - what degreaser is best, and what containers etc makes one's life easiest?

 

No need to start a chain managent system. Just use one chain and clean it and re-use it. There's no soaking, overnight drying, curing or ripening required.

 

A wet chain dries in minutes, even in winter. To speed the drying process, drop it on a sement floor or paving a couple of times to shake out most of the water 9and black crud you thought you washed out).

 

The bottle tricks showed here work well, but find a wide-mouth bottle. A shaken chain refuses to come back out through such a small hole.

 

As for lengthening the life of the drivetrain by rotating through three chains - naaaah. It is like eating three hot dogs. If you eat one after the other, or take sequential bites from each, you'll feel equally full and finish in the same time.

 

Same for chains. Three chains will simply last three times as long as one chain.

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Three chains will simply last three times as long as one chain.

 

But what people have been told is that you're cassette and chainrings lasts longer.

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I have just replaced my crankset (what a nightmare, couldn't get the one side off the tapered bearing, crank puller stripped out the threads and I lost the plot and 'dremeled' it out! Cried a little and bought a new Deore crank and bearings), cassette and chain. Should I not bother buying a second chain then?

Edited by Mojoman
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*Hijack on

 

On my previous bike I used 9spd SRAM chains. Very easy to take chain off and clean with some Kleen green in old Icecream tub... Now the Question:

 

New bike has 10spd SRAM and apparently the powerlink or whatever you call it can not be opened again on the SRAM 10spd. Any suggestions for a solution, can't seem to get the chain clean from sand ( that screetching sound) without taking it off.

 

*Hijack off

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But what people have been told is that you're cassette and chainrings lasts longer.

But how? surely it will go through the same stages of chain life. The only benefit I can see from this rotating system is if you really dont feel like taking the dirty chain off and washing it before a ride you can fit a cleaner one without going through the effort.

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*Hijack on

 

On my previous bike I used 9spd SRAM chains. Very easy to take chain off and clean with some Kleen green in old Icecream tub... Now the Question:

 

New bike has 10spd SRAM and apparently the powerlink or whatever you call it can not be opened again on the SRAM 10spd. Any suggestions for a solution, can't seem to get the chain clean from sand ( that screetching sound) without taking it off.

 

*Hijack off

 

These Park tool "pliers" were made so that you can remove the 10spd powerlink and then reuse it.

 

http://www.treefortbikes.com/images/raw/10TFB_ParkToolMLP1-8.jpg

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do you have the get all the black stuff off your chain to ensure it has a along lifespan?

 

 

 

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How long does it take a clean chain to get dirty again?

 

:lol:

 

IMO don’t waste time removing / installing chains, clean your chain, cassette, chain rings on the bike.

 

1. Chains more often than not fail shortly after the last time they were installed, i.e. every time you join a chain you are creating an opportunity for Murphy ’s Law to strike. Especially if you work behind a desk and think changing the printers cartridge is someone with dirty hands job.

2. A nice clean chain turns into a nice dirty chain very quickly, i.e. 15 minutes or less into your ride you are back to square 1 any way, you saved 15 minutes (or less) of dirt related wear.

3. The time it takes to remove, service and install 3 different chains is better spent training, i.e. Unless you are unique and have more than enough training time banked in your training log, get back on your bike.

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But how? surely it will go through the same stages of chain life. The only benefit I can see from this rotating system is if you really dont feel like taking the dirty chain off and washing it before a ride you can fit a cleaner one without going through the effort.

 

Basically it works that a chain "stretches" 2mm over a 6 month period (just an example). This will result in the cassette and chainrings to be deformed quite a bit. So now they rotate 3 chains every month and this slows down the deforming of the teeth on the cassette anf rings. So now you get 10 months before you need to replace everything (again, just an example).

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