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Chain rotation on MTB - any tips or tricks?


sage

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These Park tool "pliers" were made so that you can remove the 10spd powerlink and then reuse it.

 

http://www.treefortbikes.com/images/raw/10TFB_ParkToolMLP1-8.jpg

 

thanks will check it out

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Basically it works that a chain "stretches" 2mm over a 6 month period (just an example). This will result in the cassette and chainrings to be deformed quite a bit. So now they rotate 3 chains every month and this slows down the deforming of the teeth on the cassette anf rings. So now you get 10 months before you need to replace everything (again, just an example).

I see, but then surely the same applies when the chain reaches a stage where it is just about worn. This stage will last three times as long with the rotating system accelerating the wearing process since with the single chain system a new one would have been fitted. I see the method, I just dont understand how it will help.

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*Hijack on

 

On my previous bike I used 9spd SRAM chains. Very easy to take chain off and clean with some Kleen green in old Icecream tub... Now the Question:

 

New bike has 10spd SRAM and apparently the powerlink or whatever you call it can not be opened again on the SRAM 10spd. Any suggestions for a solution, can't seem to get the chain clean from sand ( that screetching sound) without taking it off.

 

*Hijack off

 

Ja, that Powerlink is a stupid pain in the neck. Use another brand's link. Something like KMC works like a charm.

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I see, but then surely the same applies when the chain reaches a stage where it is just about worn. This stage will last three times as long with the rotating system accelerating the wearing process since with the single chain system a new one would have been fitted. I see the method, I just dont understand how it will help.

 

Don't doubt yourself. Your logic is sound.

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Well, the idea here is to ensure a longer life of cassette and rings...which get expensive to change frequently..

 

...and I would honestly prefer to be training rather than cleaning, dealing with this mess is a right pain in the a$$

 

So - will rotating the chains really help, as I'm led to believe it will?

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So every 6 months you replace

1x chain

1x cassette

1x set chainrings

 

or

 

every 10 months you replace

3x chains

1x cassette

1x set chainrings

 

the only thing that take a bit of time to change are the chainrings. The others you can do while washing the bike, it take 5 minutes.

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Well, the idea here is to ensure a longer life of cassette and rings...which get expensive to change frequently..

 

...and I would honestly prefer to be training rather than cleaning, dealing with this mess is a right pain in the a$$

 

So - will rotating the chains really help, as I'm led to believe it will?

Yes they are expensive to replace but every ride is a step in the wrong direction in terms of wear and tear. Having a rotating system might look good on paper, but it won't prolong the life of these components. My opinion, unless you want some sort of backup where you can just fit a "fresh" chain and pop the dirty one in clean green, it aint worth it

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Yep, that's what I was thinking when embarking upon the rotation: trying to keep especially the rings going for longer..

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my 2 cents

 

The logic sounds good but you are only saving on chains. The other componets will still wear out at the same rate as they are not being rotated. The wear and tear on the cassette teeth will always be a constant as it has to do with pressure and friction on those teeth.

 

The contact point on the teeth will be the same with a new chain vs old and will wear out, sometimes even faster with a new chain as the contact point will change. The reason to change chains is as it has been said is becuase of they will streach.

 

Save your money by buying a good chain cleaner to scrub the chain clean then re lube of your choice, and buy a chain wear checker.

 

From experiance having a Race snake for a son, doing all 2010 Nat/provincial marathons and X crountry + other races+ training @ +/- 6000km i have only used 2x chains(did not rotate) 1x cassette, 1 set chain rings.

 

Hope this helps

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I dont ride as much as many hubbers I'm sure but am riding the same chain, rings and casette (xt, xt, sram) since before the 2007 S2C. plenty worn but still working perfectly. I'll change it all out eventually, when things stop working properly.

 

wonder if my "system" will cost me more than the religious chain changers or three chain addicts?

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I dont ride as much as many hubbers I'm sure but am riding the same chain, rings and casette (xt, xt, sram) since before the 2007 S2C. plenty worn but still working perfectly. I'll change it all out eventually, when things stop working properly.

 

wonder if my "system" will cost me more than the religious chain changers or three chain addicts?

 

My road bike and old mtb bike have the same drive chain since new (2005 and 2004), probably avg only about 5000km a year in total. So yes you can get decent life out of your drivechain without extra PT.

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