Water in the frame?

[Guest Big H]

Just need to clarify a few bits here.

 

If you wish to drill a hole in Carbon, go ahead. Drill sharp and clean. REMOVE your BB first so that you can remove the waterseal tube, and avoid drilling a hole through same.

Carbon frame construction usually has a BB shell that is not 'linked' by holes to the other tubes, and is reinforced in some way. It may need a hole, a hole wont hurt.

 

Water will go INTO a hole a lot quicker than it will come out the hole,viz:

Warm BB shell with all the spinning - puddle, river, rain = water in.

Water in, mixed with grit and sy!t = clogged hole = no water out.

 

MAINTENANCE be the key. Learn to do it. It saves mega $$$$.

 

Beware the BUSHMECHANICS!

 

 

Put a proppie in it and just pull it out to drain. You know something like the proppie you have on those blow up thingies you wear when you swim.....Done that on the MTB Tandem but the left the road Tandems as they are. A prop is usefull as it also closes GROOTBEKKE

[Ashchest]

I don't think the hole needs be that big. My cube has a few holes in for water drainage, they are about only about 3mm big.

[CAAD4]

Close it with duct tape if you are worried about water getting in. Was amazed to see how much water comes out of a bike after a water crossing. A friend's Giant Anthem X2 drained for almost 10 seconds from the hole under his BB.

[DaLoCo]

Put a camelbak tube in and use it as secondary water storage, no more backpack, bottles.....

 

Hat, coat, door.......

[Johan Bornman]

Water will go INTO a hole a lot quicker than it will come out the hole,viz:

Warm BB shell with all the spinning - puddle, river, rain = water in.

Water in, mixed with grit and sy!t = clogged hole = no water out.

 

MAINTENANCE be the key. Learn to do it. It saves mega $$$$.

 

Beware the BUSHMECHANICS!

 

 

This bush mechanic's observation differs from your theory.

 

In the old days, BBs had huge holes in them, often, as is the case with Colnago, Cinelli etc, they were even in the shape of the company's logo.

 

These people understood that water spashes up against the seatpost and drips down to pool in the BB.

 

Obvously these were road bikes and were seldom submerged. Nowadays we have mountain bikes that often go in water (which is not ideal but we do it to display our toughness).

 

Once a bike is submerged and parts are rotated, such as wheels, BBs etc, the bearings are in anyway compromised and contaminated and getting it out of there is priority number one.

 

The bit that leaks in, as you suggest is minimal compared to other modes of entry. For instance, a sealed cannister (a BB with bearings and seals in, will not readily fill up through a small hole. It will glug-glug-glug in if submerged, but certainly not splash in.

 

I've never seen a hole clogged, other than from a silly mechanic that feels he has to coat the entire BB axle, plastic sleeve, BB shell and rest of the bike in grease. Then the hole will clog up. A good 6mm hole will not clog.

 

Try it, you'll see. No need for plugs, tape, valves, pressure equalisers, proppies etc.

[The Drongo]

This bush mechanic's observation differs from your theory.

 

In the old days, BBs had huge holes in them, often, as is the case with Colnago, Cinelli etc, they were even in the shape of the company's logo.

 

These people understood that water spashes up against the seatpost and drips down to pool in the BB.

 

Obvously these were road bikes and were seldom submerged. Nowadays we have mountain bikes that often go in water (which is not ideal but we do it to display our toughness).

 

Once a bike is submerged and parts are rotated, such as wheels, BBs etc, the bearings are in anyway compromised and contaminated and getting it out of there is priority number one.

 

The bit that leaks in, as you suggest is minimal compared to other modes of entry. For instance, a sealed cannister (a BB with bearings and seals in, will not readily fill up through a small hole. It will glug-glug-glug in if submerged, but certainly not splash in.

 

I've never seen a hole clogged, other than from a silly mechanic that feels he has to coat the entire BB axle, plastic sleeve, BB shell and rest of the bike in grease. Then the hole will clog up. A good 6mm hole will not clog.

 

Try it, you'll see. No need for plugs, tape, valves, pressure equalisers, proppies etc.

 

 

Mnr. Johan

 

Please do not for one minute think I was calling YOU a BushMEC.

 

That was directed to the 'just drill it', slaan'it mos, 'moerit' crowd.

 

I agree 100% with all of the above, including over greasing.

 

I must say however that I have seen holes in frames clogged with all kinds of stuff. Talking MTB here.

 

Peace brother.

 

PS: Does ANYONE know what the hell BIG H is on about?

[Johan Bornman]

Mnr. Johan

 

Please do not for one minute think I was calling YOU a BushMEC.

 

That was directed to the 'just drill it', slaan'it mos, 'moerit' crowd.

 

I agree 100% with all of the above, including over greasing.

 

I must say however that I have seen holes in frames clogged with all kinds of stuff. Talking MTB here.

 

Peace brother.

 

PS: Does ANYONE know what the hell BIG H is on about?

 

 

China, I'm chilled. I quite like Bush Mechanic...kinda has a Boer Maak 'n Plan ring to it.

 

Drilling a BB is pretty dramatic. I give my customers a permanent markerpen and tell them to mark the lowest spot on the BB - with the bike in a normal position, obviously. I caution them that the position of the hole is in their hands and if they get it wrong....

 

Then I turn the bike upside down (BB out by now) and I tell them, as I clutch a ball-peen hammer and centre punch: "This is gonna hurt....hurt you more than me." Then I smack their prized bike with the hammer and punch. Then I make uhmmmm noises, mumbling something about, strange that it didn't crack this time, it usually does. I also comment on how remarkably little paint chipped off.

 

By now they are seriously nervous. I then take full advantage of their disposition and pull out a Makita 18V LiIon power drill and dramatically and slowly select a suitable drill bit, first picking up the 20mm bit, eyeing it and them putting it back. Next comes the woodworker's auger. I fit it in the mightly Makita and set it to run super slow. I then hold the drill, sharp side up and pull the trigger. A LED comes up and the slow-turning auger catching fresh air makes the customer shudder.

 

After that sunk in, I put it down, remove the auger and select something more suitable. Usually a 6mm. I fit this in the chuck and wildly pull the trigger a couple of times like a laaitie revving a City Golf. I try and look gleeful and psychotic.

 

I then take aim at the BB. I widen my stance, warning bystanders that hot alu shavings will be flying around, looking for shoes to drop into. Once they are at a safe distance, I fire up the Makita, aim and drill.

 

I then put the drill and accessories away and inspect my handywork. I feel inside, outside, blow away the swarf and make hmmmm noises, before fitting the BB. If anyone leans closer, I warn them of the unbearable heat generated there and tell them not to touch.

 

I wait for things to cool down and then inspect it all.

 

I use the period of relief to discuss filed out cable stops. I punctuate this discussion by showing them a series of tungsten carbide burrs and my high-speed dremel that sounds like a dentist's drill. I vaguely mutter about the risks of the dremel ripping the stop right out of the frame, leaving a sharp, gaping hole.

 

Is that "moerit" enough? Anyone for a BB conversion?

[Shebeen]

China, I'm chilled. I quite like Bush Mechanic...kinda has a Boer Maak 'n Plan ring to it.

 

Drilling a BB is pretty dramatic. I give my customers a permanent markerpen and tell them to mark the lowest spot on the BB - with the bike in a normal position, obviously. I caution them that the position of the hole is in their hands and if they get it wrong....

 

Then I turn the bike upside down (BB out by now) and I tell them, as I clutch a ball-peen hammer and centre punch: "This is gonna hurt....hurt you more than me." Then I smack their prized bike with the hammer and punch. Then I make uhmmmm noises, mumbling something about, strange that it didn't crack this time, it usually does. I also comment on how remarkably little paint chipped off.

 

By now they are seriously nervous. I then take full advantage of their disposition and pull out a Makita 18V LiIon power drill and dramatically and slowly select a suitable drill bit, first picking up the 20mm bit, eyeing it and them putting it back. Next comes the woodworker's auger. I fit it in the mightly Makita and set it to run super slow. I then hold the drill, sharp side up and pull the trigger. A LED comes up and the slow-turning auger catching fresh air makes the customer shudder.

 

After that sunk in, I put it down, remove the auger and select something more suitable. Usually a 6mm. I fit this in the chuck and wildly pull the trigger a couple of times like a laaitie revving a City Golf. I try and look gleeful and psychotic.

 

I then take aim at the BB. I widen my stance, warning bystanders that hot alu shavings will be flying around, looking for shoes to drop into. Once they are at a safe distance, I fire up the Makita, aim and drill.

 

I then put the drill and accessories away and inspect my handywork. I feel inside, outside, blow away the swarf and make hmmmm noises, before fitting the BB. If anyone leans closer, I warn them of the unbearable heat generated there and tell them not to touch.

 

I wait for things to cool down and then inspect it all.

 

I use the period of relief to discuss filed out cable stops. I punctuate this discussion by showing them a series of tungsten carbide burrs and my high-speed dremel that sounds like a dentist's drill. I vaguely mutter about the risks of the dremel ripping the stop right out of the frame, leaving a sharp, gaping hole.

 

Is that "moerit" enough? Anyone for a BB conversion?

love it, but it can be improved with a massive 220V drill and some welding goggles

[Johan Bornman]

love it, but it can be improved with a massive 220V drill and some welding goggles

 

 

You obviously didn't picture the scene properly. A 220V drill with cord will restrict my style. My pre-drilling maneuvres and sparring will get me tangled in a cord.

 

Welding goggles? Nice round, dark ones. Hmmmm. nice touch.

[Guest Big H]

Mnr. Johan

 

Please do not for one minute think I was calling YOU a BushMEC.

 

That was directed to the 'just drill it', slaan'it mos, 'moerit' crowd.

 

I agree 100% with all of the above, including over greasing.

 

I must say however that I have seen holes in frames clogged with all kinds of stuff. Talking MTB here.

 

Peace brother.

 

PS: Does ANYONE know what the hell BIG H is on about?

 

second one For you to keep you quiet.... the proppie that comes off the first one is for those who wants to.

plug in mouth.bmp

Edited January 19, 2011 by Big H

[Caerus]

China, I'm chilled. I quite like Bush Mechanic...kinda has a Boer Maak 'n Plan ring to it.

 

Drilling a BB is pretty dramatic. I give my customers a permanent markerpen and tell them to mark the lowest spot on the BB - with the bike in a normal position, obviously. I caution them that the position of the hole is in their hands and if they get it wrong....

 

Then I turn the bike upside down (BB out by now) and I tell them, as I clutch a ball-peen hammer and centre punch: "This is gonna hurt....hurt you more than me." Then I smack their prized bike with the hammer and punch. Then I make uhmmmm noises, mumbling something about, strange that it didn't crack this time, it usually does. I also comment on how remarkably little paint chipped off.

 

By now they are seriously nervous. I then take full advantage of their disposition and pull out a Makita 18V LiIon power drill and dramatically and slowly select a suitable drill bit, first picking up the 20mm bit, eyeing it and them putting it back. Next comes the woodworker's auger. I fit it in the mightly Makita and set it to run super slow. I then hold the drill, sharp side up and pull the trigger. A LED comes up and the slow-turning auger catching fresh air makes the customer shudder.

 

After that sunk in, I put it down, remove the auger and select something more suitable. Usually a 6mm. I fit this in the chuck and wildly pull the trigger a couple of times like a laaitie revving a City Golf. I try and look gleeful and psychotic.

 

I then take aim at the BB. I widen my stance, warning bystanders that hot alu shavings will be flying around, looking for shoes to drop into. Once they are at a safe distance, I fire up the Makita, aim and drill.

 

I then put the drill and accessories away and inspect my handywork. I feel inside, outside, blow away the swarf and make hmmmm noises, before fitting the BB. If anyone leans closer, I warn them of the unbearable heat generated there and tell them not to touch.

 

I wait for things to cool down and then inspect it all.

 

I use the period of relief to discuss filed out cable stops. I punctuate this discussion by showing them a series of tungsten carbide burrs and my high-speed dremel that sounds like a dentist's drill. I vaguely mutter about the risks of the dremel ripping the stop right out of the frame, leaving a sharp, gaping hole.

 

Is that "moerit" enough? Anyone for a BB conversion?

 

 

Hijack on

 

 

Why do bike manufactures not just make all bikes capable of having continuous cable sleaves? If we all know its better why dont they

 

 

Hijack off

[The_Break]

Listen to JB. SCOTT CR1 does not drain via seatpost. Only when you drill a hole

 

There is a reason why there are no holes at the bottom of most mountain bikes. Do you honestly think engineers of that caliber simply forgot to put a drainage holes there.

 

Or, do you maybe think they weighed up the risks of water entering into the BB thread via different channels and decided it was the less risky way to go?

 

My thinking is the later.

[Caerus]

I wonder how many guys have had a look to see if they have a hole

[Danger Dassie]

There is a reason why there are no holes at the bottom of most mountain bikes. Do you honestly think engineers of that caliber simply forgot to put a drainage holes there.

 

Or, do you maybe think they weighed up the risks of water entering into the BB thread via different channels and decided it was the less risky way to go?

 

My thinking is the later.

 

Yes theres a reason, production turn around.

 

Yet fortunately there are manufactures who do still spec those holes, engineers of equally high caliber.

[Johan Bornman]

There is a reason why there are no holes at the bottom of most mountain bikes.

 

Please do tell, if you know, tell us.

 

 

 

Do you honestly think engineers of that caliber simply forgot to put a drainage holes there.

 

 

Yes.

 

 

Or, do you maybe think they weighed up the risks of water entering into the BB thread via different channels and decided it was the less risky way to go?

 

 

No.

 

 

My thinking is the later.

 

Think what you want.

 

Thinking people have long discovered the sense of BB drainage. Just like car doors with drainage holes in the bottom, BB drainage also doesn't store or invite water but allows it to move through.

 

If the engineers were so clever they'e have figured out a way of stopping the water getting in there in the first place.

 

I've posed this question to many frame and bicycle companies, here and at Eurobike and Interbike back in the 90s. Duh....mumble mumble, jumbo jumbo...

 

I asked the Morewood guys. I got the same answer.

 

It really isn't a big deal. If you want one, get one, if you don't, don't.

[Dicky DQ]

Hijack on

 

 

Why do bike manufactures not just make all bikes capable of having continuous cable sleaves? If we all know its better why dont they

 

 

Hijack off

Because of the weight!!! Shees you are talking a lot of extra g here.