techguy

Also check that the cable for the front derallieur isn't hitting the crank arm as it passes can cause a clicking sound.

You can try all three but you need to clean them in white spirits, drop them into a bottle with white spirits and shake the bottle, then bake them and then sand them. also you must clean the discs with white spirits and possibly sand them and wash them again with the white spirits... A tip for future bleeding, remove the pads fron the caliper and put them far away from where you're working, also remove the wheels and put them far away then start bleeding....when finished bleeding clean everything including your hands with spirits before putting the pads and wheels back.

The juicy pads are held in by a pin in the piston which is easily damaged when pushing the pistons back to fit new pads. when damaged the pads can easily fall out and the pistons need to be replaced...

Yes you can use that combo but I would use the revolution spokes, I've used this combo using Tune hubs and the wheelset came in at just over 1300g. Revolution spokes are fine on disc wheels so long as they are not overtensioned and so long as the wheels are used for marathons or XC and not hardcore trail riding.

I stand to be corrected but the Endura brand is just that-a brand I don't think they are any better than FAG or SKF (perhaps someone in the industry may spread some light...) The side that is open has a couple of seals that you must have removed first the sealed side is on the inside to keep water and gunk that sits in the frame out. the "open" side has the plastic cap and the rubber seal that runs against it...

Rwanda not Kenya

the wear is in the alu crank, you could, in theory, get an egineering shop to "rebuild" the splines but as for costs it's anyones guess

Tried tightening them till they streched... canned them used the standard stuff...

Yeah they look great till your wheel falls out, had it happen to me on road and mtb. not just on one occasion either...

Why not phone Ant Nash and speak to him first?...Instead of getting 2nd hand info from a shop assistant go to the source, if there is a genuine problem he'll sort it out...

Nothing thats cheaper than Gators can compare.

You could use Joe's,Stan's , Bontrager (symetrical strips), DT Swiss etc...

You see I've heard it was the other way round, But probike was going to can it first but got beaten to it...

Replace the chainrings...

Check out Adendorf tool shop, www.tooltime.co.za they sell tourque wrenches for less than half of the above mentioned BBB tool with a greater range of settings...

that roller assembly sells for less than R100 so rather just replace it, sometimes the body that it sits on needs replacing as well, thats about R180 worth, I also generally replace the pawls as well which are about R70 for the pair, The actual freehub costs R350 thats the main body that the cassette sits on...

AM is on a Garry Fisher next year. A 29er nogal. Yup! I have seen him ride a 29er G Fisher and its so pretty!! He was on a GF 29er two years ago already at Sabie experience! He didn't like it cuz he had tyre problems...

Well like velo said if you have a warranty query you have to ship it back to CRC for them to check out if it is a warranty, if not you'll probably be charged for the repair and then charged for it to get shipped back to you...So the price you pay may wind up double. A customer of mine had a fork from CRC that leaked oil out the box and it cost him another R1600 to have it repaired locally...

Its not impossible to do this, however all the steering geometries will be thrown out the window, as the steering angle will intersect the ground at a different point thus making the steering feel very twitchy. and to do a "46er" is not a good idea at all, the seat angle will be made more relaxed as well as the steering angle "slacker" making the bike very stable at high speed however very unresponsive at slow speed.

Depends on whats wrong with it, that'll determine the warranty. It may just need an oil top up which should be regular mantainence. A fork should be serviced every 4-6months or 100-150hrs of ride time...

Even tho its a coil spring it still has oil damping in the right leg for the lockout (if fitted) and rebound adjustment, and it also has a small amount of oil in the left leg for lubrication. The "seals" are actually dust wipers to keep dirt out of the fork and not high pressure seals, so a 3ft drop off can force the oil past the dust wipers.

Yes Just have a look at the AG2R bikes...

It may be play in the rivets between the alu body and the steel disc, I'm assuming you can feel this play when you apply front brakes? It can also be a slight movement of the pads in the caliper...

It happens on all cranks, blaming Shimano is not the solution, I've had my XTR cranks for 4 years now and not a scuff mark on them. Rock dings etc yes. I also have size 10 shoes so the shoe size doesn't come into play. I've seen Race face, FSA, Truvativ cranks all get badly scuffed from shoe rub. The solution is to adjust your cleats so that when they stop on the inside the shoes don't touch the crank arm.