techguy

Get 25c Gatorskins or if your frame can fit them get 28c gators... the bigger volume will reduce the chance of pinch flatting and they are more comfy to ride as a bonus, now before everyone screams rolling resistance...Conti have proven that a bigger tyre will not have a significant affect on the rolling resistance. All the Conti sponsored pro tour teams train (and race) on 25's

BUGGA...

the 775 refers to the brakes ie. a BR-M770 is the V-brake version whereas the BR-M775 is the disc version

Get some Conti Giro tubbies, they retail for less than 500 bucks and well worth it... they are road tyres not track specific like the tempos...

It could be your BB needs grease or the pedal/crank interface needs grease, a creak can be a lot of things, a cracked frame will be one of them, but I've had bikes creak because the skewer wasn't tight...

It doesn't make a difference where the shock is placed, the difference comes in the linkages operating the shock, leverage ratios, single pivot (most common) four bar linkage (specialized and a few others), etc...thats without getting too technical...

From the photos I would say its were two layers over lap, does the bike creak when ridden? and try swissvan's advice and see... It would be odd for the frame to crack there...

Because its a Supersonic' date=' which means that pretty soon you will be riding on the rim. [/quote'] I ride a MTN King Supersonic 2.4 in front and a MTN King Supersonic 2.2 out back - Have been since Sani2c this year, both have been converted to tubeless with no problems. Even did Rooiberg on them.... they are not as flimsy as people think...

Keep at it dude it'll all click soon

Why would any one want to ride a 1.95 tyre? A MTN King in 2.2 supersonic is just on 350g and a 2.4 is under 500g. Riding a 1.95 one may as well ride on the rim...

Ya well thats pretty much what I meant, also if you can get your hands on the DVD Fundamentals, it'll show you the basics and more, the one section deals with the loss of traction by creating a slide and controling it by locking up the back wheel. Also a good trick I learnt when I was a noob was to ride holding onto the bars and not have one finger resting on the brake lever, then you have to make an effort to brake and you'll find you'll brake less. Keep in mind as well that momentum is your friend, you're less likley to crash if you hit something at speed because by the time you've reacted to the obstacle you've ridden over it. Trust me it works! Bottom line... if you wanna get better-get out and ride more!

Well at the 6 hr on Saturday there were worries of congestion and it wasn't too bad... lets see, don't go in negative...

The Killer bees work well but if you so much as spit on them they slide... Conti Mountain Kings are the best, and if you want light get the supersonic version

Why do you need showers!! There are two ponds on the property so go for a swim. Just watch out for the duckies and geese! If you need to shower then you're not riding enough...haha

The best way to learn to corner is to crash, then you know the limits of the tyres, suspension etc. But as for tyre choice put a bigger tyre on the front, I run a Continental Mountain King 2.4 in front at 2bar and wet, dry, loose gravel it doesn't matter. If you want tyres that corner stay aay from maxxis, I have found they are not very grippy in corners, and before I get lambasted for that comment, I have tried them all at various pressures etc and its not a lack of trying.

Glad I could help, The Skarebs are nice forks...

Don't get me wrong, but the Ellesworth's all look the same... I geuss don't fix something if it ain't broke...But they are very nice bikes.

I use a R8 syringe from dis-chem does the same thing...

Best handling= Wide bars and short stem, Very upright! when did you see an MX bike with a 120mm stem with a 480mm wide bars? I ride with a 100mm stem and 680mm wide riser bars on both bikes...

The "b" lever is the lever that you use to shift down, and to trim it back just push both levers together as tho you shifting up onto the big ring again.

The manual give those figures as a starting point, keep 50 in the red SPV and as a guide line I weigh 63kg and I pumped my Skareb to 110psi, also keep in mind if you are not using the full travel on the average ride then the fork is too hard... The SPV is the amount of force it takes to make the fork compress, The long term is Stable Platform Valve so the more presure in the SPV the harder the fork has to be compressed before it moves, very similar to the Fox Terra Logic system...

Hi that clunk you're feeling is the shock reducers and the DU bushes that have worn out, your LBS should be able to sort it out, otherwise if you don't come right PM me I'll sort it for you. It costs about R200 to do both ends of the shock...

I had this once, when I only replaced the chain and cassette on the customers request, he came back a week later screaming at me cuz I did a K@k job and the bike was unridable cuz the chain was slipping on the worn out rings... not my fault he didn't want to pay... Moral of the story, don't always assume people (LBS's) are trying to rip you off...